Etwenty1

If you are going to put headers on the car leave the rocker cover gasket....the oil leaking down onto the exhaust nuts makes them easier to remove ..when you do replace it watch your bolt torques - some are in inch/lbs.

I looked into this before I sold my m10b18. Cheap option was to change the diff to improve acceleration. If you have$$ then turbo. Anything in between didn't deliver good bang for bucks. In another 2 years when gas is $3 a litre you'll be happy with a 1.8

Yeah they got sold

You were going to send me some pics of your blue set.... whats happening - have you decided to keep?

Still looking for a black leather rear seat - anyone?

Would prefer it was complete with the 2x sensors but will take a bare one too. This is the part that bolts to the head, with four coolant flanges, 2x sensors and a couple of bolt plugs in it. Same part on FL m20b20 or m20b25 - oem part number 115 317 304 70 A price couriered to Tauranga please.

Used this one Thermostat Its is listed as compatible with oem 11531713040 I tested it in a pot of water to see it opened but will get a genuine unit if you reckon it will make a diff. Cheers

So I decided that the radiator looked old and crappy and i was happy to replace so fitted new one today hoping that would resolve. Slowly filled until coolant leaked from bleed screw then ran until warm. so i see the coolant level creeping up very slowly until it starts to spill over, that's trapped air heating up i think so, bleed, rev, bleed rev, open screw etc after each rev there is 4-5 tiny bubbles escaping from the thin line from the rad. Then the thermostat opens and there is a drop in coolant and its surging up and down in the tank but not spilling over (cap is off) the top hose is warm not hot, level become stable and i think great, put the cap on, hop in but then i hear water boiling in the heater area and temp is climbing over 1/2 way. i look under the car and coolant is dripping from a drain hole in the floor pan on passenger side. I can hear it sloshing out of the heater but can't see a leak from any of the heater pipe junctions...? Have removed heater core and valve for pressure testing............ Still hopeful that head and block are ok and that this is just a cooling system leak - its ok till i put the cap on then pressure builds and its blowing out in the heater somewhere.

Have done a compression test (twice now) WOT all cylinders are 185-190 after 5 or 6 revs. I was cheered up by that but car has a miss at idle and is still puffing condenation out the exhaust. This might disappear after a long run ? Will now be taking radiator to the shop to be tested. Have also been trying to test the viscous fan clutch. It appears defective as in easily stooped by newspaper even when temp is showing hot - because the lower rad hose is cold i am unsure whether the clutch is getting warm enough to stiffen.

An Aucklander without a heat gun ? how do you make your creme brulee's ?

Good suggestion but new waterpump.

Manually checked thermostat and it opens fine, drilled hole and ran hose thru rafiator and all hoses.Checked viscous fan cltch with rolled up paper and fan stops easily regardless of temp. Bottom hose stays cold so not sure if viscous bit is getting warm enough to change. If the fan is controlled by a viscous thing that is directly temp sensitive, what is the 3 prong sensor on the rad for?

I think you can ask to be included in the tender for the wreck if you are the owner....

bought to fix with blown HG. Found fire ring on back cylinder damaged possibly from during overhaul a year prior. or is this pressure from the opening nearby? PO said car had coolant leak from heater core. No sign of this leak, thought i would get running then track down causes. Followed that bleed procedure. Checked when cold and level had dropped maybe 1 inch. On extended idle overheat and leak from cap occurs.

cold, not just a bit cooler.

Have put a new HG on a FL 325i, head skimmed, new WP, TB, thermostat, drive belts. Problem is car over heated quickly on first start up - 3/4 on the gauge with an inital fill, unbled and was boiling in the hoses. Have refilled and bled it several times and temp rises slowly to just over halfway on the gauge. Water then starts leaking from the cap (not the overflow) have replaced the cap with another 2nd hand one (2 bar)but it still leaks from the neck. Neck of reservoir does not appear to be cracked. When its hot the bottom hose is still cold and so is the overflow. (new water pump fitted and belt tension is good) Top hoses are not and very firm (pressurized) With the cap off there are no bubbles but the coolant (water at this stage) gets forced out as it warms. I figured this is normal in a pressurized system. Car idles with a slight miss. I'm going to pull the thermostat tomorrow to check it. After that will do compression test. Any suggestions appreciated.

When i run this plate through carjam and get the VIN, the VIN decodes to an e28. Anyone have a relaible VIN decoder site to share Visit My Website YS 9272

looks like something for the next episode of "Renters" wheels looking great BTW

I reckon its your alternator anyway - output should be around 14.5v unloaded IMHO. Have you checked the alt brushes on the reg? take it off an measure them, can't remember the spec but it'll be on the web somewhere. But the voltage drop when you rev it suggests the stator has a bad leg = new alt You also need to be checking the current as well which is outside what most diy DMM's can measure. A good auto sparky will be able to bench test and advise. Unless its you daily whip it out and take it in for testing so you are not "stuck" at the auto-sparky when he gives you the price to replace it.... maybe not the same place that sold you the new battery.......still have it?

did you find some, i have some spares

thanks but got a 2nd hand head for parts

$500 Sold?

I tried to make Turner Motorsport "aware" of this situation while looking at a set Bilsteins but they didn't want to know. That and the $350US they wanted for postage ...cough cough.