2002

Any idea what the lockup ratio is?

E30 disc trailing arms are different to drum trailing arms, the drive shafts & bearings seem to be different as well

Sorry - it's my age showing, it was really intended as a dig at doing burn outs for "show" but if you've done any sort of brake upgrade ( drums to discs) or perhaps larger discs it is an easy way of getting the car balanced without going through the drama of installling a pedal box. You can also adjust for more or less weight in the rear or for different surfaces - I tend to run more rear brakes on gravel than or tarmac. Tip1 If you're installing a proportioning valve, remove the existing pressure reducer. Tip 2: If you don't completely understand what people are talking about in this thread, then leave your brakes alone!

Tilton do a hydraulic brake proportioning valve (get them from Cardwell racing) If you do install one make sure you put it somewhere where the testing station can't see it because you really need a low volume cert to use one on a road car. An aside: There are lots of good reasons for installing such a device - In my opinion making lots of smoke isn't one of them

OK - I'll let you have a 4 door E36 318 - but it must be completely stock

A personal opinion: Rather than spending a large amount of money on a lowered pimped ride it is better to, 1 Buy a completely stock 1300cc 4 door Corolla, Be Mr (or Miss) reliable, your car will always run & you won't get hassled by the police. and then 2 Buy or build a real race, rally or drift car. It will cost you less in the long run and make you a better driver

Has anyone ever come across one in their travels?. I'm building up another 2002 but I want to keep it looking more stock than the rally car, so changing to a E30 diff is a no go - it's too wide.

I've got some twin Sombergs, off an E12 520 (m10) if you're considering a change to twin carbs

Yes but when you consider a Metric Mechanic close ratio 4 speed (232) will set you back about $7000 NZ by the time it's shipped and I've been pricing up a conversion to a sierra box with a quaffe kit - I'm up to $3500 and still counting. So $1500 was starting to look not so bad.

I'd be inclined to try wiring up just one of them and see how it goes

I can't use it but somebody else may find it useful http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...amp;permanent=0

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6...9564&q=manx

M1 or Stratos

Wish the 2002 went half as well

With the 2002 I removed the heater core and then put all the ducting & fan back in. It seems to demist OK just using cold air. It's not very often that you're cold when you're wearing a race suit.

Got another one! - a 2002 TII it was going to be a parts car for the rally car but now that I've got it home, it's too good to chop up for parts. This is getting out of hand, I need to be happy with the projects I have

Are you sure E30 arms fit, I thought the pick up points were on a slightly different angle relative to the body center line. I've actualy just run out to the garage to check but I'd need to drop an arm off the 2002 to check.

Hi, I'm after a right trailing arm right tail light rear bumper and perhaps a couple of bottle caps & a front seat all for a pre F/l E30 318 Cheers Craig

Pre-F/L E30 318 - Has minor panel and suspension damage - otherwise fairly tidy See my parts wanted post

If you're getting intermittent "check brake light" warnings and the lights are fine replacing the brake pedal micro switch will fix it.

Got one!

It seems reasonable that the alternator may not charge with the cluster removed, on many cars the alternator excitation voltage is supplied via the charge light in the cluster. No cluster = magnetic field in the rotor.

Hi, I'm looking to buy a project car for my son to do motokhana's and autocrosses in and I was hoping to pay less than about $1000 I'm after a 2 door, manual, powered by an M10, so either a 2002, E21 3xx or E30 318. Ideally it should be structurally sound, run & drive but I'd also look at non runners depending on what's wrong with them.

Change it when you're rebuilding the motor, probably should change the oil pump at the same time

It shouldn't be - If you're using a BMW diff which has a speedo drive in it (E30 & later). Actually the diff may be the problem, iirc the BMw medium diff is good for about 350 HP , the large is good for a bit more but I don't think it will bolt into an E36 subframe without a bunch of mods