bmw325i

hey guys, not sure if its motronic or what it is. havent looked too deeply into what the car is all about as only picked it up the other day and just tried all the obvious reasons for it happening and then had to leave again. its a 1986 320i manual coupe, and has a MPH speedo so guessing its not a japanese import. hopefully this is enough info for someone to know if its motronic or whatever. will have a decent look at it next time im out at drury where the car is. I am going to check the undercar fuel pump next though as these can start working on the piss and also the filter it self could be blocked and not allowing enough fuel for higher rpm. Yesterday it was rev limiting at 4500 instead of 3500 so fuel filter could explain that. will keep you posted.

has anyone had their e30 create its own rev limiter? Now firstly, it is a bouncing fuel cutting limiter at 3500rpm, its not running out of balls or cutting out or anything, its limiting consistantly at 3500rpm. however, up till it limits at 3500rpm the power and engine is as smooth as a brand new motor, no hesitating or surging. It can pretty much only be.. 2 things, air or fuel but the afm seems to be functioning perfectly which leads me to thinking it is a fuel problem but what do E30's have that could cause a fuel problem. im pretty sure its an electrical problem causing the fuel issue hence leading to the low rev limit. Anyway if anyone has their 2 cents and are keen to share it go for it. i have also checked all the fuses and also the two behind the glove box and they all seem to be fine.

ive got one you can have for 20 mate. 10 is a little too low but 20 will pay for a bit of grog for me.

Most articles i looked over mentioned carb cleaner or pure alcohol. It worked fine on mine and if all else fails worry bout it then ha. "she'll be right"

yeah could be a good option. its nothing too flash but it makes a difference and im sure theres more people out there that would benefit from doing it. I looked all over the place on how to do the M52B28 motor but could only find early M50B25's and 318 motor write ups and they are located in a slightly different place etc so thought id put up how to do this one.

^ that thing is SEX!

i cant take all the credit on that one Nick, but the Koya R1's set it off but would have prefered them in black with the stainless lip. beggers cant be choosers

no longer needed. cheers to those that txted through offers.

I LOVE what that guy did to the M3 rims on Micheals first post on page one, photo 2. Farrrrken cool IMO. Also one of the old whips.. Still miss it like crazy

Got sick of my inconsistent idle and smooth return to idle when driving so pulled the ICV (Idle Control Valve) out of the car and thoroughly cleaned it. Here is roughly how its done for those that are keen to give it a shot on their own cars. Things you will need: 1 flat head screw driver (normal size, not too big) 1 Ratchet with 10mm socket and short extension 1 Can of Clean-a-carb Note: DO NOT use any silicone or CRC lub once you have cleaned it, other wise any grime, dust, etc will stick to it and will clog up quicker than you can say F**K. Also DO NOT have the key in the ignition when you are doing this and DO NOT turn the ignition on until everything is plugged back up and you have double checked all electrics have been properly plugged back in, or it WILL throw a fault code which will cost you $$$ so double check it! Step 1: Pull out the airbox or podfilter if your a boy racer ha jokes, for this you'll need to undo the two 10mm nuts holding the airbox to the wheel arch, then pop the two steel clips off the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) and then take the airbox out. Then take the pipe/duct out that is connected to the alternator and the front diversion cover thing, you'll need the flat head screw driver to undo the hose clamp from the alternator end. Step 2: Take the plug off the MAF by twisting it anti clockwise and it should fall out, and put it out of the way so you don't stand on it (very expensive mistake). Then take the intake flexi-pipe off the throttle body and pull the pipe off that is on the bottom side of it (may take a good pull so don't be afraid to do so. (Also i'd recommend replacing the intake pipe if it has cracks or splits in the creases ($50-$60 brand new). Step 4: You will see the oil dipstick is mounted to a small bracket type thing and there are 3 gold coloured 10mm bolts, one of which will get the dipstick out of the way, the other two are to support the ICV so undo all 3 of these and be careful not to lose them down the engine bay somewhere. Step 5: Follow the pipe back that you pulled off the inlet flexi-pipe until you reach the other end of it which is slight under the manifold, give it a tug downward which should pull the ICV off the manifold allowing you to maneuver it around enough to get it out, NOTE: there is a plug on the end of the ICV that needs taking off first so dont pull on it too hard or you might find the plug good for nothing when you try and put it back on. When pulling the actual unit out it may be easier to get it in a position to take the pipe off it by undoing the hose clamp with a flat head screwdriver and then pulling it out through any gap you can near the fire wall or which ever works for you. Step 6: You will now have the ICV in hand so get ruthless with a can of CRC Clean-a-carb (NOT CRC Lubricant or WD-40 as it will stick). Thoroughly clean it through each side of the valve and work a rag around in it with your finger and just clean it right up until its at a satisfactory condition again, Also give it a good spray down each side whilst shaking the ICV and you will notice the actual valve it self start rotating, keep doing this just gently until it moves nice and freely, then give it one more spray "for the road". Step 7: Now the fun part of getting it back in, you will need to put the plug back on as soon as you get the ICV in a position to do so, then push it back in under the manifold (have a feel around first with your fingers to find where the hole is that it needs to push back into (This will be basically straight in where it was originally mounted and then straight up (sounds familiar really doesn't it ha). Then like I said, wiggle it back in under there and push it back onto the manifold and do up one or two of the 10mm bolts. Make sure its defiantly hard on there and then replace the oil dipstick mount and line it up to the hole and put back in the 3rd and final 10mm bolt. Step 8: Your out of the woods now so all that is left is putting the black pipe back on that leads from the bottom side of the ICV to the intake flexi-pipe ad be sure this goes on completely, then do up the hose clamp on the ICV end. Put the intake flexi-pipe back on and tighten the hose clamp, then the black ICV pipe needs to be pushed firmly back into the intake flexi pipe (on the bottom side of it where it came from). Once this is done all that is left is putting the MAF back onto the intake flexi-pipe and tightening the hose clamp, followed by replacing the alternator cooling duct and tightening the hose clamp onto that and lastly, put the airbox back in and attaching it back onto the MAF, push the steel holding clips back on and tighten up the 2 10mm nuts that hold the airbox in place. Plug in the MAF plug by gentally turning it clockwise until it locks into place. DONE. now enjoy a smooth idle and a different (better) car to drive!

yeah mines the same mate, only in hot weather or if youve done heaps of driving in a day. I tried the grease idea that nick posted but theres too much bullshit under the dash to find it easily enough and pack it in there so did the best i could (quick try) and then got mungral with some WD-40 and sprayed the sh*t out of it. Outcome = no more squeek till next time.

What:DUPLI-COLOUR FLAT BLACK VINYL/FABRIC PAINT Where: Repco $: $17.99 How much: 1 spray can How much will you need to do a sexy purple tray: Half of 1 can How many coats should you do: 3 coats How should I coat it: One semi-thorough coat to start, covering all areas of the tray (Top only obviously), Then wait 5-10 minutes and spray the final two coats at that interval and not too close or it will blotch and come out stripey. Tips: -Warm weather is always better for painting anything -DO NOT hold the can horizontal or the float will run out and cut a long story short will come out all blotchy. Hope this helps anyone. anyone at all. Cheers...

Nick - cheers mate your a legend ill crack into it tomorrow and with a bit of luck itll be fixed. And yeah thats one of the few reasons i like the earlier 2.5 motors, plasic engine parts are NOT FTW.

alllllmost certain its something in the pedal mechanism.

Does anyone know how to fix a E36 Clutch pedal squeek/squarrrk POS. It sounds like a plastic on plastic or rubber on rubber or a bit of both but I cant seem to find the fka. Had a very quick look again before and have left the panel off till i can find out what is causing it. And also what is with BMW and their bright idea with using plastic mechanical and semi mechanical parts lol? Plastic thermo housing... plastic rocker cover... and plastic clutch pedal that would probably snap if kicked hard enough under frustration of one wheeler peelers ha. anyway yeah if someone can help with the loud talking pedal please HELLLLP. Jase.

that photo was only 1st coat dude. It got another 3 since then so its black as its ever going to get now

You dont get stripes if you hold the can at the right distance and do several light coats

repco, $17 got a $1 discount for the good cause. ha na im not sure why they gave me a $1 discount actually. VHT has a 30% at the moment though and they are already slighty cheaper at $15 so you can get that cheap if you get it soon. They only had gloss black at the pukekohe store today though hence the reason i got dupli-colour.

pull it out glenn and ill spray it for you if you want. Ive still got half a can and dont need it.

Cheers Nick, I used the dupli-colour flatt black becasue the vht was a gloss and the flatt gives a slightly more original looking finish.

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Fabric paint in a can - legend. Doooooo it! What:DUPLI-COLOUR FLAT BLACK VINYL/FABRIC PAINT Where: Repco $: $17.99 How much: 1 spray can How much will you need to do a sexy purple tray: Half of 1 can How many coats should you do: 3 coats How should I coat it: One semi-thorough coat to start, covering all areas of the tray (Top only obviously), Then wait 5-10 minutes and spray the final two coats at that interval and not too close or it will blotch and come out stripey. Tips: -Warm weather is always better for painting anything -DO NOT hold the can horizontal or the float will run out and cut a long story short will come out all blotchy. Hope this helps anyone. anyone at all. Cheers...

Finally got the ol parcel tray removed - stripped the rear of the car out just about to get it out easily and without breaking something. Kinda quiet like the weight reduced driving now too . hmm lol. Anyway heres a before and after pic, cant wait to get it in and see the difference.

Yeah the matt black one is just vinyl dont worry haha. Who ever did the vinyl is a bit of a legend though, not a single imperfection. I wouldnt think Ol' Team Mcmillan would be keen to paint a brand new e92 in matt black ha. Wheels on it are sh*t though I agree but would look pretty tough tinted out, lowered, and some 10's or 12's on the back and pumped gaurds. Annnnnd on the track like THIS one - If only D1NZ had real cars and REAL POWER: Just listen to the sound of the bloody thing (jizzz)

Was in at Team Mcmillan yesterday and saw they had a matt black M3 in the show room and im not one to like many matt black cars but it was certainly something pretty different and they pulled it off pretty well.