Carl

Pressure plate sitting over the clutch plate and flywheel

Then you use the clutch alignment tool to stick on the flywheel and clutch plate then the pressure plate over the top before pulling the alignment tool out.

After you take the torque converter off you need to stick in the spigot bearing inside the engine output shaft

Torque converter from the auto

Some decent photos from my conversion

My votes in. I should point out that the street circuit propsed is not like the old one. The waterfront track section around Frank Kitts park is no longer viable as they replaced a vital bridge with a foot traffic one. This means it will never be the same as before unless the demolish the new bridge and stick a road one back in.

Those cunning boys at bmw make their cars so you can easily switch things around, however, 4cyl engines don't mate with 6cyl engine g/boxes and vice versa, so you'd have to find a 6cyl g/box if you stick in a 6er. You could find yourself a 318 engine, that'd give you a fair bit more stink, and if you're really onto it, find a wrecked 318is and you've got yourself a 1.9 DOHC which has better power to weight ratio than the 320 engine My 2c.

Can anyone confirm whether the Z3 lever conversion is the same for sheet metal shift mechanisms as they are for the aluminum shift mechanisms??? Don't forget that there are a variety of Z3 levers to choose from depending on what you want

Will post photos when I get the time, all at home sitting in folder. Pedal box is a mission but it's more of a frustration than the mission getting the auto box out and sticking the manual one in. Unless you have a car hoist or good car pit by far the hardest part is getting at all the bolts on the auto box then switching them. Forgot to say, it also helps to get a clutch alignment tool for when sticking the manual in, cheap as chips from repco. PM bumpstop325, he'll probably get you to drive down to Palmy and do it, but it'll save you time and money.

I posted a thread with pictures a while ago after doing the conversion on my car. Still have all the pics though if you want them. There's quite a few people here that have done the conversion on E30's, PM bumpstop325 (Tim) as he's the most experiened at conversions now. Here's my suggestions: Replace as many parts as you can before you do the work. Get a clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing) and a clutch repair kit (master and slave cylinder kits) from BNT, it's cheaper and it's very important preventative maintenance wise plus it'll make it feel like a new box MAKE sure you have a spigot bearing (goes on the end of the g/box input shaft) auto's don't have them and you may not have one with the manual you've got. Perhaps get an output shaft bearing aswell as an output shaft seal. Check the g/box mounts and the shift lever mechanism mounts aren't worn out. Check the flexi disc isn't worn out. Make sure you have the right driveshaft and use the right driveshaft mount!!! Check the shift lever has all the necessary bits, perhaps replace these otherwise you may end up with a sloppy shift lever... Don't mount the clutch fluid resevoir too low, it's gravity fed so needs to be quite high up in the engine bay. Be sure to check that the clutch line doesn't leak. IMO, flush the g/box oil and use redline manual transmission oil, DON'T use ATF fluid unless you have one of those weird boxes. I'm sure there's more pointers to follow, expect this to be a weekend job, but the benefits are endless.

Curiously, I have never given any thought to oil, as far as i'm aware oil has several main purposes: Lubrication Heat dissipation Removing nasty chemicals What I do know synthetic oils are supposed to have better lubricating ability and are less likely to create harmful nasties as they don't contain impurities which can react with oxygen to create acids such as nitric acid. What I also know is that oil viscosity should also be selected based on your engine age and your running climate, ie, cooler climates dictate lower viscosities such as 5w40 and warmer climates 15w50. Bearing that in mind, what difference does it make between running say 0w40 and 15w50 and running mineral vs synthetic??? Resistance? Lubrication? Cooling? Performance???

Nah, you're alright, you weren't off topic at all If you think about it, if they ban smoking in cars it'd just open a can of worms for everything else, cellphones, lcd screens, stereos, food and drink...they all distract drivers. If they start doing that they might aswell ban manuals, you have to admit that it is infinately easier to eat a dirty pie while driving with an auto than trying to eat one while driving a manual...

Hahaha, talk about giving Tim head, that'll make him explode Tim, best getting new bits for everything so as to make it feel like new aye! Word of advice, go to BNT (Brake and Transmission) and buy a new slave cyclinder, and get a master repair kit...will make your clutch feel like new and for peanuts. Get the clutch replacement kit through bmw (clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing) as it's cheaper than doing it separately. If it's small and important, get it replaced! And make sure you use the right oil aye!

What kind of vids, I can hook you up with the best kind There's a cost though :pimp:

Probably too late now but seek me out tomorrow (see my piccy in my profile) and I can set you onto the people you need to talk to. Spacers can be a painful process due to requirements and the likes - you need high strength if you're racing and i'm not too sure on road legality - but getting long bolts ain't too tricky.

I'd really love to know where you pulled that figure from Loads are always going to be different from one setup to another for both turbos and s/c's, damned net statistics...I'm going to agree with you on the turbo's Glenn since you're the foremost autority on them, can't wait to get a ride in your beast, twould be nice to feel what boosting is like in a bimmer even if it is a toymota

Possibly your oil choice since 0W40 is some fairly thin oil. Just try something more viscous and see if it still burns oil. It could be any number of factors.

IMHO running both chargers wouldn't achieve much, you'd still have the lag since the turbo still needs to be spooled, and the boost from the turbo probably wouldn't work as well as you'd think since the s/c would probably inhibit it somewhat. I'm only speculating on this of course but if running dual chargers was a good thing you'd probably here alot more about it. 318is, you've supercharged an engine? what makes it a mission??? - for the benefit of two people here

Sorry Gus, didn't see your post as I was writing mine. I'd like to say that the bigger your engine the more beneficial a supercharger is in comparison to a turbocharger. Turbochargers get more gains on smaller engines whereas superchargers are better for larger engines. Turbos give a nice healthy boost but only through narrow bands, unless very well tuned. S/C's give a constant boost which is much more handy on high torque engines with larger power bands. It's like having a shot of NOS compared to driving downhill. Interesting point, those big arse american drag cars are all supercharged, never trubo charged

Um, having no lag is a very good argument, don't be so stupid.Don't presume to think that turbos give your power for nothing, just like a supercharger puts a small load on the engine to drive the charger, the mechanics of a turbo means there's a resistance placed on exhaust flow which is more predominant at the lower end. Depending on the fan size, weight, and boost pressure, the "larger" the turbo the worse off you'll be for torque at the lower end through lag - although this is regained in the horsepower gained. Comes down to whether you like having high torque or high horsepower. I personally would prefer the torque hence why i'd prefer a supercharger. Just out of curiosity, are there any turbos that aren't on fulltime, I know with s/c's you can have them hooked up to switches so you only use it when you want it...ie, when you want to guzzle gas

Hell no - You can't get heavier than Pink Floyd and Iron Maiden.. they own. Nah, heavy is Rolf Harrison, now he's got some really heavy sh*t :mosh:

Yip, my total all up conversion cost would've been $1500 had I not put the auto box through the side wall adding another $500 for panel work so I know the pain.I too have an auto box spare should anyone be in the market Anyone got a spare 3.45 or 3.64 diff?

Stop changing your bloody mind, nothing is more annoying to people wanting to sell their car than tyre kickers, anoyone got a spare 3.45 or 3.64 diff?

Getrag 260 3.83 2.20 1.40 1.00 0.81 I still find the gap between 2nd and 3rd quite annoying, but then I am running a 3.25 diff Please, anyone got a 3.64 or 3.45 diff spare?

Bah, insulated wire is half-pie, you should be using insulated fuse wire for a good back yard jobbie CRZYSAM, if you want to keep a service history then do the bmw centre or authorised dealer otherwise you can do everything yourself, including the service indicator reset. BMW centres charge an arm and a leg for a service especially a service 2 which will be over the $500 mark the thieving little coconuts