JiB

For those offering swaps, I need at least $7k cash my way. Otherwise, it defeats the purpose of selling my M3! Some could say that about S30's. Last time I had just bought a Subaru!

Hi all, After some wheels, specifically: 17x8.5 ET41 5x120 If the offset is around that figure, it should be fine, as long as I can face the hubs or use <10mm spacers. Budget: as low as possible, these will most likely be spares.

Top Kart chassis. Top kart support in nz is by Kendall racing supplies.

Sold

Right, so either this or my M3 has to go. Reasons explained in M3 thread. 125cc Top Kart Set of mounted slicks Set of mounted wets MyChron4 datalogger spare sprockets 7x5 tipping trailer, wide enough for the kart to roll on fully assembled. Trailer needs new wheel bearings for a warrant. Pics to come.

Have a whole bunch more photos I can email if anyone is interested.

Cheers for the heads-up Glenn. Looks like the best way would be to get them out of an '01+ Integra Type R then try make the Honda sensors talk to the BMW ones. From what I understand they're 3 pin switches? I think I need to have a closer look at the ones in the BMW. Ideally I'd super seal the pins so that OEM/Modified could be swapped in/out easily with some bolts and plugs.

Guys guys, they're not for sale. If I ever replaced them they'd be put in storage if I ever have to sell it. I'm guessing selling an M3 coupe Vader-less would be harder than with Vaders. I'm thinking Recaro SR4's for replacements, but apparently I have to go through a cert if I change the rails I don't even know what you're trying to say here?

Nah, just a pixel faded 8 Button thing. Would be nice to have a trouble-free //M car *touch wood* at the end of it that I can just hop in and drive without worrying about anything. Would be a waste unless the suspension, etc went in the E30 too - the only real qualm I have with the driving experience is the steering. It's rather vague, but at least it's a lot quicker than E30's! .....And the seats, Vaders really don't agree with my body lol. This close to replacing them with something else! If it were a donor, I'd definitely put it in an E36 touring....thank goodness there are no touring shells around the place

^ That'd be awesome. You have PM

Sure is. The previous owner was absolutely fastidious about anything mechanical. But couldn't give two tosses about interior or exterior

Forgot to add, I should also match the rear tyres with the fronts. But am wondering if the car would go better with a square fitment, rather than the staggered? I'm not sure why the car would benefit from the stagger at all, I'm sure the weight bias is forward...

Hullo, been a while since I've had a BMW. Voila - project thread as requested by some. Picked this up on an impulse buy. Well, not that much of an impulse - was thoroughly checked through on the hoist before purchase, Ernst at Bavarian Motors has looked after it since 2003! Mechanically, it is properly awesome, nothing to do except maintain the thing - maybe new shocks in 10-20,000kms. Rebuilt motor pulls strong, and sounds pretty good. Starting to grow very attached to it! It's a great height, sweet wheels, and from most angles it looks like it could be a 318i Not much to do...at all really. So my to-do list in some vague order of importance. The rest of this post is probably really boring, and more for my benefit I suppose. 1) Stainless Steel Clutch Line + CDV delete I hear this does a whole of good for the clutch feel, probably get one made up at Alert Motorsport. Anyone know the fitting sizes? If not I guess I'll just take the old one in. 2) Sort passenger door Window doesn't work and the doorcard looks like it's been through a war. 3) Sort sunroof One side has come off its rails, thankfully, the drains are clear and it doesn't leak. Might align it a bit better while I'm at it. 4) Sort roof lining It's like a tent, doesn't obscure the rear view...yet. 5) New Oil Cap Current one weeps (perished seal) 6) New rear right quarter window seal, and windshield seal. Ah, the joys if a mid 90's BMW, perished rubber, ahoy! Good thing is, they don't actually leak, car was outside in the last Auckland downpour. Bad thing is, because they don't leak, I'll probably procrastinate on them - I don't really see myself bringing this out if it's wet either. Another of my garage Queens 7) New mats, glovebox and gearknob 8) New mesh, brake duct, foglight and trim A 100kph duck attacked the front mesh 9) New badges Some are destroyed ad some aren't even there. It's funny, all the //M ones are still there, higher quality //M parts? 10) New Exhaust hangers Got droopy exhaust 11) Call the Dent Doctor

Have the T1 Sports on the rear of the M3, just trying to find some fronts to match. Johno, do you have them in stock? So far, they appear to have quite silly amounts of grip, certainly puts the limit well out of bounds of what is sensible on the roads!

Are these oil issues an issue when running road tyres? Seems a bit silly if an M car can't handle high G's without damaging itself. Edit: Might tilt mine with an oil pressure gauge and post up the results. Anyone have a gauge spare?

Spun a big end shell, new crankshaft and modified shells to stop it happening again iirc.

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PM replied, will start a project thread - because, oh boy is it a project cosmetically! Never thought I'd ever own an E36, haha. I believe somewhere on this forum, I would've said something along those lines It's no E30 :P

FSH from Bavarian Motors. Motor Rebuilt 83,000km's ago, drives great! Bushes replaced, etc. Needs new tyres and a bunch of work though! Buy Now wasn't close to Reserve if anyone is wondering. I'll swap you if you have some Contour II's

Hi all, I would like to get an E36 inspected in the Wellington Region. My quick BimmerSport search turned up Page European and Jeff Gray. However, it seems like Page European might be the go? Any more feedback/experience? Hopefully I end up back in a BMW

I have an E30 bottle cap (with tyre). Spare for my fiancee's car, but sound like you need it more. PM me for details. I'm on the North Shore too

^ Provide me with some material and I'll help you lay up some parts

Well, I happily owned some ugly cars that were brilliant to drive (Bug-eye STi and a shoebox Type R). Fortunately, I couldn't care less what others think. Also, 70%, if not more of my driving is on the highway - so the "nana-spec" is actually a plus I suppose. The trademe example has full NZ service history and cambelt was done at 74 kms. I think my main worry is the costs involved in keeping it in good condition. For example, how much are engine mounts/tie rods? Also, bit of an odd question, but how adjustable is the factory setup? Can I play with the camber/toe/castor? Or do I need to purchase aftermarket items?

I keep coming back to this in my TradeMe adventures. Can owners (cough Graham ) tell me what the running costs are like? From Graham's previous posts on his car, some basic parts appear to be horrendously expensive! So is it going to cost lots to keep maintained? I can manage ~$500/10,000km services, or do modern Frenchies demand more than the Germans? Are there weak points that will need specialty parts? Will it handle a couple of track days without exploding/destroying my wallet? (Have had a couple of cars with Brembos now, the pads/discs sure ain't cheap!) Is there any pre-requisite safe-proofing for said trackdays? (My EP3 Civic needed a baffled sump before trackday adventures) How "French" is the reliability? I can't seem to find any documented failures? The fatty RS225, what differentiates it from the Team F1/R26? LSD? Spring kit? It is also a lot of ANCAP stars that should satiate girlfriend/parents safety fixation. It also worries me that there is a lot of traction control/ASC/electro-nanny - can this be turned off for trackdays? Or if it can't be turned off (like our '10 vRS) is it intrusive? The goal would be a comfy car that I won't get bored of/feel the need to sell in a couple of months . The ability to have a hoon on track/backroads is a bonus.

FWIW, Rattle guns are fine as long as the correct torque sticks are used.