Jacko

Im thinking about going to koni adjustables and some H&R springs while ive got the suspension in bits too go nuts with the nolathane. Seems like H&R seem to be highly regarded on this forum, and I had good experiences with the konis in my 944. Car is used daily, but im building it with track days in mind. Its currently got Supersport cup springs and shocks, but sits pretty high with it on 17's and the shocks arent adjustable. I dont want it scraping the deck and Id like too avoid camber/toe problems if it possible. Rolling gaurds is shweet. What im interested in is how an E30 coupe sits with 17x7 and a 17x8's on H&R springs, any one got any pics?

Chur!

After an E30 M20 temp sender (the brown one that drives the gauge) so I can machine it down and jam it in the M50 before swapping the engine.

Is anyone able to hook me up with a copy of the WDM/ETM for a 1985 323? I can find jack online, or on ebay. None of the M50 to E30 wiring diagrams ive found match up with my car. Email a PDF, or if can borrow a hardcopy to photocopy the bits I want, Ill buy beer! Seems like BMW liked to change the E30's wiring every year just for the fun of it.

My money is on the battery being totally shagged, like totally toasted, betya its well below 12V. And the alternator cant keep up with running the engines electrics and try to charge a dead flat battery below 1500rpm, so the ignition etc/ cuts outs. Pinch a battery out of another car and see if it solves it.

M6 - US market version, S38 engine w/cats, boulevard cruiser suspension. M635Csi - Euro market, M88 engine, more power and more sporting suspension. Shwweet car BTW, that engine bay looks like new. Ive been a 6 series fan since I was about 5 and a relative owned one (I guess it was new then), its on my list of "dream cars"

Cool beans, sounds like its easy to get off the shelf threaded oxy sensor fittings too! One thing I havent sorted out is a muffler, any recommendations? Something a bit stealthy, not a big shiny tin can with an 8" hole in the back (and a skank whistle to go with it, Whoooom psssh!) To get to the stage of the engine in the car running, new exhaust and headers, all new seals/radiator/clutch and other bits (with mostly OEM/genuine new parts) budget is looking at around $5k for everything. And theres another $3k in new wheels,tyres and LSD and nolathane, still havent decided on what to wheels. Those new BBS 17" weave clones look pretty slick, but so do a set of the cloned 17" Alpinas... Tough decisions. $1k on the interior for some new seats and a tidy up im figuring. Add another $5k in panel and paint (gonna keep it the stock schwarz black), im banking on there being hidden rust (those E30 sunroof pics scare me!), and the rubbish paint that is on it is gonna take a shedload of prep work. For a car that cost me $2k 3 years ago as work hack, its getting one expensive birthday I need to do some OT!!

Why would anyone do that? I particularly like the very tastefull pink anodised grip tread floormats and the back end that looks like a Lister Storm, but made outta bog.

I once got a car, with wof and reg, for 2 boxes of heinekin

Cheers Brent, Looking at the ECU/DME schematic in the bently manual shows pin 70 looks for the oxy sensor voltage output, on the DME I got off you (V 3.3). It sounds like the DME ignores it till its up to temperature, So I guess it'd still run without it, but wont tweak the mixture. Since the intake and the exhaust on mine are gonna be way different from stock, and ive got a an aftermarket chip to swap into the DME, I think ill hook it up just for peace of mind that its not leaning out or doing anything dumb! Ill grab a new one I think, just to be "sure" its working right. What I may need though is a chunk of exhaust with the right fitting for screwing the sensor into though, so I can hack it off and graft it onto the new exhaust. Ill check with the guy doing it, I dunno if you can buy the 02 fittings off the shelf, like you can new flanges? Also noticed that the DME I got has got 1991 525i written on it, but the DME was manufactured in 96. I bet that cost a bomb to replace in the original E34!

Cost, dunno yet Thats an image I found of m50/52 equal length headers designed to fit around the E30 steering, something similar will be made with those as "inspiration" Im going to a single exhaust, I dont see the real benefit of going twin pipes, and twin will cost a shedload more.

Oh Click! That whats the smashed stray relay on the loom is for

Way ahead of ya, I agree the stock M50 manifold (even the M52 one) looks like crap flow wise, and cutting the manifold rewelding it on to even more of a funky angle cant be doing it any favours. Good to know it makes a healthy difference. Got the legend fabricator working on replicating something like this - If anyone else is keen for a set, lemme know and ill pass the word on and get back to ya.

New Question. Since my E30 doesnt have an O2 sensor, it also has no 02 sensor heater relay, what is used to control it, or do I need to pick up one of these too?

What doesnt need replacing would be an easier question

I think the right combo is E28 mounts (the rubbers) from what ive read the other rubbers sit the engine two high or two low, and E36 arms bolted too the block. I dunno about organised ha. But every E30/M50 swap ive read seems to be incomplete, some points missing etc, maybe its obvious stuff to pros, and some cars never seem to have ever started So hopefully I can get it all down here, and have the thing start and run shweet first pop (thats the plan!) Spent the last few hours going through Realoem, working out all the p/n's for "refreshing" and replacing all the perishable stuff on a non vanos E34 M50B25, radiator hoses are E36. No gaurantees that its right but - Sump gasket - 11131437237 Dipstick Oring - 11431287541 Sump Plug washer - 07119963151 Front crank seal - 11142249532 Rear crank seal - 11142249533 Seal infront of camgears - 11361740840 Oring on inlet cam sensor - 12141727220 Rocker cover gasket - 11120034106 Seals around the rocker cover nuts - 11121437395 - Cant remember how many there are, heaps Oring on the crank breather - 11151730724 Oil filter set - 11421730389 Thermostat - 11537511580 Waterpump - 11517527799 Thermostat housing gasket - 11531748047 Thermostat Oring - 11531265084 Intake manifold seals (6) - 11611717259 Exhaust gaskets (3) - 11621728983 Radiator Temperature switch (91/99degrees C) - 61311378073 I plan on driving the electric fan off this, dunno if the temp range is right. Radiator hose upper - 11531720720 Radiator hose lower - 11531730928

Thanks man, Ive just got hold of the Bently E34 manual. Got some reading too do

Looking at RealOEM, seems like one belt drives the waterpump/alternator and one drives the A/C and P/S, I never saw the engine with belts on . So p/n 11281735190 is the belt I want.. Maybe I also just realised I have no O2 sensor is P/n 11781735710 what Im after? Where does it plug into the loom and is the wiring length critical?

Supersport springs are red too, look the same, made in germany, good

Just got mine, "stage 2", turned up quick, looks to be pretty friggin good for the $ Cheers rds The pressure plate and fingers are stamped Luk, its not advertised anywhere as a LuK clutch, so im inclined too believe it is genuine Luk pressure plate. It has been balanced. All the clutch plate riveting looks shweet, no cracked rivet tails or obvious cheapness/roughness anywhere (Ive built aircraft brakes during my training, they're assembled pretty similarly) Ill let ya know how it goes when stuck between the M50B25 and Getrag 260

24" chrome spinners. Fully Sick.

Spent about 6hours degreasing and cleaning all the crap outta it today, looks like an engine again! Pulled all the plugs and dropped the sump, had a good poke around, everything looks dandy. Rocker cover is off to be acid dipped and powder coated, probably get a few other bits done later Ordered a new chip for the DME, euro spec'd, good for a few more horses and torques and raised rev limiter. Will post up a comparison between stock and the race chip once its in. See if it was worth the $70 it cost, cheap as chips Too anyone who has done the swap before, can you remember the p/n of the grooved belt you used? Power steering and Air/con have been removed, so I need me a smaller belt.

Go the tech 1 323's Nearly the twin of my car, good luck.

E30 - Kill switch installed up under dash, just floating around in the wiring, With half assed connector crimped on too it... Ended up with a dodgy connection, took me ages to figure out WTF was causing my car too die seemingly randomly.... Bluetack/playdoh holding the covers over the back of the headlights. The Beegees greatest hits jammed in the CD player!! 944 - Had the beginnings of central locking installed in the door, actuators and everything, but it looked they just gave up half way. Also had a bunch of bog in a chassis rail...

We have a new Donk, cheers to Brent and the guys European car parts for playing "find this bit" and answering all my emails! Picked up this morning, On the engine stand and stripped in the arvo. A few of the more interesting pics below, I took a bucketload of photos of the breakdown too help me stick it all back together. Managed to wind all but two of the exhaust studs outta the head, and three of the coils plugs are busted. Easy fix stuff. Outside of engine is a mess, inside it looks minta! Just waiting on an E36 manual radiator (going for a new one) a suitable brake booster and all the new seals/idlers/gaskets etc. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us