Jacko

The dash I bought came with a loom attached, just the one the runs along the top, but the plugs dont seem to match the old dashes one, so Ill play swapsies. If you want this one its all yours, guessing its out of a newer model than mine. Got a whole swag of wire splices and am gonna start chopping obviously wrong shed out tommorrow, hopefully through ellimination it gets simpler too look at, and makes some sense. Fingers crossed Still totally confused about the 3 wires that run up the A pillar, and the random plug thats against the firewall on the engine side. I never realised how many bulbs there are under the dash, nearly all of mine are blown. Its gonna look like a friggin christmas tree once finished

I knew there was an alarm installed in my car due to the siren under the bonnet, but its never worked while ive owned it, so thats the last I thought of it, apart from thinking I should pull that out some day. Roll on Dash swap day, and hello, some clown has made a mess of my cars wiring. Can someone help identify whats needed, whats alarm rubbish, and WTF ? This is what we have to deal with - Stereo stuff (my guess is 3 different stereo installs, easy to sort out) Whats this plug, and why is not plugged into anything? What was plugged into the alarm box, Im pretty sure I can cut most of this shizzle out. Any idea what the green white with red band wire is? upper left of the first pic. These jumped heavy gauge wires dont look factory , but they seem to end up at factory wiring, so I should be able to just remove them and stick the factory wiring back together. Is this wire here factory? it runs from the fusebox right into the alarm loom. Im guessing I can ditch it. This cut wire (3 wires) was jammed under the DME mounting screws, any idea what its for? Its runs up the drivers A pilar Im impressed that the whole alarm install was done by twisting wires including the wiring for alarm loom off the battery terminals Cheers for any guidance on whats what.

Shweet man, be keeping an eye on this one. FWIW my 85 323 has a metal airbox and is german assembled. From the research ive done, and people ive talked to in the UK, the Renault Clio booster from around year 99-01 (your after one from a clio with plastic front gaurds) is the better booster of the lot in terms of feel/performance. Its straight bolt in, and much newer than any of the other options. One of the wreckers in auckland has some on the shelf, its on my list of things to do to go get one from him. Cant find his name in my M50 swap notepad ( ), but he specialises in renaults and jags which should narrow it down. Im not 100% but id put money on a 944 booster being identical to a VW golf one, I had a 944 for 4 years and theyre a VW partsbin on wheels, when it wasnt catching on fire it was a cool car though

Styley

Does look like super glue, id carefully slice off the chunky bits with a razor, Acetone and some elbow grease will eventually dissolve CA, but be gentle as it could wreck the paint underneath if you get carried away.

That thing is nucking futs. Is it the stock gearbox/4wd transfer??

Chur!

If I didnt have a M50B25 and a whole swag of engine swap bits for my tech 1, Id be dead keen. That thing looks so slick, Good luck!

That is sooo awesome, they should run for super city mayor, id vote for em. "Your a Firefighter? Your a *wit dude"

^Seems to have a bug with 6 cylinder engines.

Found this too, but havent played with it yet - http://dairally.net/daihard/chas/MiscCalcu...rs/DaiPipes.htm

Random volvo forum for the equations, theres references to them everywhere but this makes the most sense - Theres about 5 different exhaust diameter calcs from googling. Rethinking mine I should probably re do it for a peak of 5900 RPM to work with stock max power.

Found some equations, did some maths, and some assumptions Tuned for 5500 rpm peak, pipe sizes rounded up 6-2-1 (better mid range) Primary 16" of 1.5" ID Secondary 14.2" of 2 ID" 6-1 (better high rpm) Primary 30.2" of 1.5" ID 2.25 to 2.5" single exhaust (depends which theory you use..)

Looks like a friggin Pipe organ

Tractor manifold = Cheap to mass produce M50 Cast Manifold = Cheap to mass produce Good exhaust manifold (M3?) = Not Cheap to mass produce M50/M52 exhaust stock manifold might as well be off a massey ferguson. Most Japas have better designed cast manifolds! Pod filter aint gonna do much but make noise, noise is cool though , and many stock intake manifolds have chambers built into them to give the same effect as a tuned length intake, making more power at X rpm. Some clever fellow has worked that all out, removing that may not help performance. The whole idea is to get all the sucks and blows to help each other, so that as one cylinder sucks/blows it helps the next cylinder suck/blow. Getting all the pulses to work together at X rpm is done through the the length of the intake/exhaust. Its not just as simple as big hole in the front + big hole in the back to get the most air in/out. Turbos make the whole intake/exhaust length tuning pointless, as the turbo/compressor wrecks all the waves, and the intake/exhaust charge is getting shoved through the engine anyway.

I concur, Ive seen better looking manifolds on tractors.

Anyone got, or found, any real world numbers on M50 exhausts. What works, what doesnt, recommended diameters and header lengths? Im thinking two equal length 1" branches of 3 into 2 then a single 2 1/2" pipe to a single muffler, and likely a resonator in the middle to quieten it down. Thoughts?

Im struggling to work out who is more retarded, the clown who did that to it, or the munter who wants to buy it. Problem with situations like these is the poor E30 stuck in the middle...

Wait a week for me too bolt new one on, and you can have mine for $20, 4 spoke poverty pack job. If I can find my 22mm socket you can have it this weekend

Double post, my bad.

Cheers - I just pulled off the door trim to have a looksee, rods to both the solenoids have been disconnected (and so has the boot and gas flap) Moving the drivers side solenoid triggers a sad sounding buzzing noise from somewhere around the A pillar, passengers side solenoid feels locked solid (cant move it by hand) Is the passenger side solenoid supposed to be jammed like this? Im wondering if Ive got a flogged passenger solenoid and thats wrecked the central locking computer, previous owner obviously just diconnected it mechanically... Moving the drivers side solebnoid without flicking the microswitch might have been a bad idea in hindsight

This is my latest RW, custom designed by Mr RW for me, so im a bit of a fan Maiden flight in tokoroa with the rocket man (Bruce Simpson) so I was being gentle with it making sure nothing exploded/melted, its doing around ~180 mph. Datalogger melted so I didnt get any pitot static airspeed numbers which sucked. This one is sitting at 2.2kW, previous one smoked a bugatti veyron to 140mph with 1.4kW, so this should deal to the veyron SS!

Its getting cheaper and cheaper. I have a few ritewings, none FPV (yet...), A zephyr can be set up for $500, add another $400 for an average radio, and ~1k for FPV gear and do the same as the vids. Same as anything though, you can spend much more or less To do it "full bling" roughly double the price, but you'd have HD FPV goggles and a fricken sweet setup! NZ CAA/NZMAA law at the moment doesnt really cover FPV. "legally" you cant fly beyond visual range, and you need a spotter watching your plane and ready to grab the sticks incase it goes pear shaped. This has been around awhile, and its pretty nuts -

Im the stig.

http://vimeo.com/guerillasoarer/videos - This guy Trappy is a loose unit, does some awesome stuff, and gets in lots of trouble for it. Hes had lawsuits for smashing into ski lifts, and chasing cars http://vimeo.com/13283846