jom

Another option for overseas supply is Demon Tweeks - faster and cheaper shipping than from the US.

And where's the missing strut brace?

While you're doing this mod it's a good idea to give the ICV a good clean out. Lots of carb cleaner to get all the black soot out, until it rotates at the slightest breeze...

The Turner kit provides a length of 15mm copper tube and some heat shrink to lengthen the plastic one. Cut the plastic pipe in half, insert the copper tube and then heat shrink over the joint. Seems to work fine. Needs to be about 30mm longer, from memory...

With an auto I don't get a choice with the rev limiter. It changes gear when the electronics tell it to. And - the reason I stick with an auto (and a 328 for that matter) is the 1 hour crawl into Wellington. Otherwise it would be an M3. Different strokes....

Needs a benchmark graph before mods. Otherwise it's pretty meaningless.

+1, cool story, bro...

+1. I got charged NZD48 on a USD229 puchase. If the money went to NZ customs I'd be happier. Would like to know where it ends up.

Ron, I think I've explained several time why the auto is different. You obviously only read what you want to read. The proof is in the lap time - you can't have read that either. And I didn't sidestep, I just gave up. I have better things to do, like polishing wheelnuts.

I will say this only once: You are comparing apples with hovercraft. When you have concise data on a 328 with an auto box I'll listen. Until then, I will back away from the wall and stop nodding my head. Enough entertainment everybody, nothing to see here, move along now.

Your maths and physics stops at the flywheel, you need to consider the whole package. I drive a car, not an engine

Ron, you are only comparing engine and exhaust differences. It's matching that to the drivetrain that makes the difference in the auto. You have to consider the entire package.

The whole point of my swap was faster lap times with an auto. Comparing an auto to a manual is a red herring. Driving at peak revs (on a track) in sports mode, the power stops increasing at about 5,700 and drops off fairly rapidly. I have to sit and wait for the gearbox to decide to change at 6200. Having the power up to those revs - and smooth power delivery through the gearchange - make it go quicker - by 1sec a lap. It's acceptable on the road too when overtaking, for the same reason. Otherwise I don't use max revs. The Jatco box does have it's own issues, like changing up early under high g loadings, but that is another story. Jo

I really didn't want to do this, but... Ron knows everything about manuals. But not necessarily nasty Japanese autos.... If you look at a standard 328 power curve it dies at 5500rpm. The Jatco box in sport mode changes at 6200rpm. That's where you get the extra power with the M50 - at the top end. I agree it's probably not what you want in a manual, but with the auto it does make a positive difference. Your choice, less torque, more power up to gear change point. Jo (Flat earth, and Eric the Red farming in Greenland Society)

On a slightly different topic..... Ron, do you have before and after dyno curves for the M3 header on an M52?

I think I still have the bit of foam with two holes in it that replaced the flashlight if it wasn't specced...

Try Leyland 70's colours. "Blaze" and "Dirty Blaze" ? Really!

And the lemon scented one makes the car smell nice.....

For assembling o rings where absolutely no contamination was allowed - water is the only way. it works pretty well if you can't find a non-destructive lubricant.

Have you tried the dealers? I got one about 5 years ago ex stock...

They are standard on the Z3

From memory, the OEM ones are about $150, which is a lot for a bit of stamped out steel plate.

Fuchs Titan 6000 works in mine.

Try Le Mans Auto Fabrics, 8 Martin Square Wellington 04 384 8616, email [email protected]

You can turn off ASC - a button in front of the gearlever. The fuel gauge in the red one will probably be the drivers side sensor (there are two) which also has the fuel pump included. Costs about $250 new. Most 96 cars have the door trim insert foam rotted by now (causes the sagging). Material is $50 for the inserts but it's a lot of work to rub down the old glue... and find a trimmer who can stretch the new material enough. Headlinings likewise will go soon, again it's getting rid of the old glue that's the headache. Otherwise drive them and see if you like them....