jom

At least if it's NZ new it's got Amon tuned suspension. Must be a 1600, the 1300s die earlier than that.

Is the rad hot? I know it's silly, but I once had to diagnose a race engine that was overheating. The guy who installed it left the dust covers in the coolant pipes.... And have you bled it with the temp set to 32°C?

Not sure if you have fogs sorted - have you seen the ones on Aliexpress? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-1pair-Front-Bumper-Clear-Glass-Fog-Light-Lens-For-BMW-E36-3-Series-2D-4D/32601523120.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10056_10068_10055_10054_10069_10059_10078_10079_10073_10017_10080_10070_10082_10081_421_420_10060_10061_10052_10062_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_3&btsid=87eb599e-3f5f-41da-88cd-9cf94e2dd212 At $39US a pair they are a bit cheaper than OEM...

Unless you keep a spare, of course.... But the foam float does eventually get waterlogged and indicate low coolant level. Not something to be ignored wirt a 328! This is the one sensor that you really need to work all the time.

I'd keep the level sensor. The one you have WILL fail.

We used to use Redex to decoke. Favourite on Jaguar sixes...

Last time I took the inlet manifold off my 328 the ports and valves looked like new (at 180k). Perhaps because of a diet of 100% BP 98?

Love the front seat covers. Is that part of the "re-trimmed upholstery"?

I think I already told everyone 10 years ago. I also told Stocks, but they didn't seem to care. I assume that the company you dealt with has the initials DT? Perhaps someone could complain to Koni and get the NZ prices more in line with the rest of the world? BTW, Koni adjustables still as good as new after 140,000kms.

My sister had a goat that would butt at it's own reflection. Cost me (and others!) a door skin until I learned to drive through all the dirty puddles on the way to see her.

Shame no-one does a tank sender unit kit. It's usually the bit that fails on the combined pump/sender assembly... I've replaced two

Another thing you might want to check is that the fuel connections to the injectors are on the right way round. They are both the same and it won't work if they are reversed.....

Heater valve?

Not a Holden, it was a 1958 Morris Oxford...same gears as a Cortina etc. Can't remember where reverse was, though....

<Yorkshire accent> You were lucky! I took my test on a car with no synchro on first, synchro gone on second, AND a column shift! </Yorkshire accent>

Have tried race pads - even the mild ones - and don't like the "no brakes first thing in the morning" feeling. I went back to BMW OEM pads, still OK for track work, providing you're not doing more than 5 laps at a time and don't want to use ABS all the time. I learnt to brake less and conserve momentum. It's quicker!

Are you putting the internal temperature setting to max (32°) before you bleed it? That should clear any air out of the heater.

I have a pump with broken sender unit. $50 plus shipping?

It is an E36.... but Dealer or Milland. Looking at FCP they are even cheaper

Even buying in NZ I can get all four corners (pads and rotors) for way under 1k, using brembo rotors and oem pads.

I consider rotors a consumable item - I usually need to fit (because of min thickness) new rotors every two pad changes. I rather like my brakes to work...

I have a Honda airbag recall (on an NZ new 09) that was notified in June 2015 - still no sign of anything concrete... so don't hold your breath!

I got abel smith radiators to make me one, and it's still OK (touch wood) 9 years later.... PS have been through about 4 level sensors though.

Style 39 staggers are the size you want and will fit. May be a bit hard to find though.

Maybe if we knew what "engine arms" are?