Surge

PM'd and paid.

Chrome bumpers no bids on them, closing at ~4:40pm, dollar reserve. Cheap set of rear springs there. Auction for bottlecaps + other wheels still cheap. Cheers

Check PM HT.

Got a few E30 chrome bumpers on TM, again, dollar reserve. My listings http://www.trademe.co.nz/MyTradeMe/Sell/Current.aspx http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=471334325 And a bulk lot of wheels.. Full set of bottlecaps there + a single basketweave. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=471329701 And some rusty lowering springs. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=471330748

Some of them went for some good prices - I've still got that exhaust from a 318is - would probably give good gains even on a 320i. Check my listing: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=469119225

Most of this stuff is going in a few hours. Mtech 2 has a $3.50 on it now, get a bargain.

Mtech 2 spoiler on there now. Dollar reserve. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...914&ed=true

My listings: Have other e30 stuff on there. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings....?member=2367217 Highlights include: Decent 318iS exhaust system - 2.4/2.5" - good upgrade for a 318i/320i http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-466606753.htm Stainless muffler http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-466582857.htm 80's Zender Rear spoiler: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-466587399.htm Cheers guys. Will be putting more stuff up over the week.

I got mine done at Royce Clive engineering on Blenheim road. I use Clutch Systems for the machining.

Might want to tell the world whether it's a 2.5 or a 2.0

Hi Andrew, Not sure if you haven't checked your PM's but I've chucked the money through for my bits - give us a yell when you know what the shipping is and I'll put that through too. Cheers!

Fancy red e30 grills... Not the best condition (in terms of the paint) Closes tomorrow, see listing for details. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=447371132

Good condition E46 touring (blind) boot cover... Netted from between the seats to the tray - pulls out from there to the back. Assume the standard e46 touring has the mounts for it. After $80 for it. Pics if requested, item is fairly self explanatory.

I have an immaculate FL radiator out of an M325i. Can get it up to you for $20.00 I'm after $80 for it. PM me if you are interested.

Sorted. Cheers

After the rubber mount (not the alloy arms) drivers side, Pre-FL (I don't think there is a difference between pre-fl and fl anyway... unless someone knows otherwise) - to suit an e30 325i Cheers

Gave him mine to borrow.

If that doesn't work out - have someone heatgun the outside while you pull it from the inside. You'll probably end up with sh*t all over the back windows so you'll need some degreaser too + heaps of window cleaner.

Shouldn't be any issues. In terms of electronics I don't even think there is any automatic specific electronics on the engine loom at all - unless there was something on the fancy auto box with sport shift?... When you are doing the radiator - be careful removing the hoses, the plastic barbs have a tendency to snap off (20 years old and all..)

PFL top hose goes to top of radiator drivers side. Other hose runs BEHIND/NEXT to the alternator to the passenger side lowest outlet of the radiator. I managed to successfuly route my lower hose into the alternator cooling blades, which diced it up rather well....

Ok sweet. I've sent you the wiring diagram which I've found accurate when I did the swap on my car - it's a good one as it has the pre-fl body plug, and the fl engine plug diagram. Just pull back the boots on the C101 to check the colours - generally it doesn't matter if there is more pins used on the engine side than there is on the car side - as long as they don't mate up wrong.. (ie 12v coming off the engine side going to something that needs 1v on the other side..) - check your car against the diagram. You'll be dropping it all it as it stands, so you'll definately need to make the hole in the firewall bigger to fit the plug through and should not have to swap anything electrical on the engine side. The only issue would be the radiator one - they are different between the Pre-FL one and the FL. If you've got a FL rad (and hoses + expansion tank) use that then you won't have to pull the water pump off (I think the FL pump has an additional outlet or something..) - regardless, the coolant plumbing is very different. And yeah, signal wire for the tacho - done. Make sure you earth the motor too - one from the sump to the body is easy to forget about. If the FL loom has a plug below the intake manifold (from the injectors + coolant sensor) to the rest of the engine loom - un-plug it and check it for rust, they can cause all sorts of problems if they are bad. Do it while it's out of the car to save the swearing!

Just done the exact same thing (sort of... put 1.3 on to a Pre-FL motor so I could run a facelift gearbox) If you want to keep using motronic 1.1, you'll have to use the original box and flywheel (as it has sensors in the bellhousing) and take the oil level sensor, oil pressure sensor (different plugs between 1.1 and 1.3) off the old motor. Might need to swap the water pumps + hoses from the Pre-FL to put on the FL motor to allow you to keep using the old radiator. If you want to use Motronic 1.3 you'll need a FL loom, the computer and that will allow you to use a FL gearbox (without sensors), toothed cam wheel + crank angle sensor, the spark lead pulse generator (optional but not necessary) and you'll also need to enlarge the firewall hole to put the computer through (easy with an iron bar...) - also, putting the toothed wheel on requires removing the water pump pulley, which requires removing the fan, which requires a thin 32mm tool to remove it (clockwise, reverse threaded) - I had the luxury of having a mechanic let me borrow their BMW tool to do it + very large vice grips to hold the pulley, you'll see what I mean when you get to it! The 'spark pulse generator' plugs in below the diagnostic port on Motronic 1.3 in a plug that is identical to the plug from the crank angle sensor. If you get no-spark/fuel, try swapping these over. It's an easy mistake to make. I got lucky with the C101 - However it does pay to check against wiring diagrams first, PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you some through. Your tach most likely will not work - get the source wire for this from the engine side of the C101 (top) - it's a thin black wire, this then is pulled back right to the computer, you cut a heap off it, and run it into a three pin connector below the instrument cluster.. It goes into the black pin. The other two are not used.

The factory piping (combined dual) surely would be over 2 1/4" wouldn't it? My logic would be to run at least 2.5" for a 2.8 N/A... I don't know if there is any merit in that but I'd be keen to hear others opinions. (Hybrid beat me too it!)

Centre support bearing - holds the driveshaft up about half way down the car.

Checked crank angle sensor? Often causes no-start situations.