huff3r

Looks tidy, and nice price.... shame ur so far away

I had a friend who got a real bad deal with AMI, the car was a mess, it took forever for them to sort it out, and they insisted on getting it repaired. The vehicle was valued at around 6K, and the panel beater told them there would be way more than that in hidden damaged, but the insurance assessor said no, no it'll be fine. So about a month later they finally got their car back and promptly changed insurance agents. At the moment i'm with NAC, lol turns out no-one wants to insure an 18 year old with a race-car

I had a similar problem in my E30, turned out to be the thermostat was so old and rusty it had seized open... would probably pay to check that first, its reasonably easy to check.. A basic test is to let the car run for a bit, then squeeze the top hose and you should hear the thermostat clicking open and shut.... or just take the hose off and check what condition it's in..

I used to run octane boost in my telstar because it needed all the help it could get and it definitely made a difference.... much cleaner and far more mileage, that was using the STP Octane Boost, which is apparently about 7 numbers RON

lol one of my m8s actualli has a pet possum... maybe it was his?

Definitely tech 1, even my faded, coming unstitched one... glad my car didnt come with stock

If its only in the clearcoat then i wouldn't recommend a cut and polish, as they are quite harsh and will strip the clearcoat. I would recommend using something like Meguiars Scratch X or something similar, as they will help replenish your clearcoat without damaging it.lol can tell i work at superchheap

Too right... more .... "drools"

The point about the escort is valid, it would hold up in a crash better than a brand new wrx, but the driver sure as hell wouldnt. The reason modern cars crumple like tin cans is to absorb the force of the crash, the extremely well built and solid escort would transfer all this force straight into your seatbelt and through your body, liquifying your internal organs. The WRX however would crumple, absorb the impact and you would be far more likely to walk away with only minor injuries... In a demolition derbi, sure pick the solid old cars, but in real life i prefer them soft and safe....

Update: Tacho fixed, turns out the needle was stuck on top of the needle rest, preventing it from moving at all... Discovered it when fiddling with the other guages, i could move the needles freely, but the tacho one didnt seem to want to move at all.... hang on, whats this black thing its sitting on top of? move it and sur enough, it works now

Tested SI board batteries with voltmeter, 3 volts each, suggests they are healthy... any other ides what it could be?

I've got the haynes book, which makes finding them easy, but there's also a site from a previous post... hold up a sec.... http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticl...d_batteries.htm

Hehe, i snapped mine up last night... can't wait to put them on my car

Just removed instrument cluster, and noticed three connectors, yellow, white and blue. I have the white and blue plugs, am i supposed to have one for the yellow connector as well? I can't find one.... If I am, and thats why my tacho isn't working, does anyone know what part of the wiring loom it comes off, to help me narrow down my search?

Another thing ticked off my list right now, wheels are sorted.. pics to come in a few weeks when they eventually arrive (getting m8s to pik them up lol)

I alwayz use the 95 at caltex (dad works for chevron lol), but i found other brands of petrol tended to ruin my mileage figures anyway.... haven't tried BP Ultimate yet, might be worth a go...

Nah, its my external killswitch thats causing pain... inside the car i just use the ignition, since thats what the killswitch runs off anyway... turns out i'm not gonna make it to manfield, just called work and even tho i'm supposed to get one day off every weekend i have to work both this weekend

Lol, they started the numbering for my street at the wrong end... my house (12) shows up as 2

At current i am having a litlle issue... After having the dashboard out for 3 months and having since put it back in my tachometer no longer works. After a little research i found my problem could possibly be the batteries in the SI board. All the Service Indicator lights, and the rest of the instruments appear to work normally however. After talking to Jeff Gray BMW in wellington they seemed to think that it may be a faulty tacho, or something else horribly expensive... Just wondering, can the SI lights still work even though the batteries are faulty, and should i try changing the batteries first, or just listen to Jeff Gray and spend $500 odd dollars trying to fix something that might not even be broke? Also, where can you get the batteries for the SI boards from? Dick smith?

Got the fire extinguisher installed today... always a good safety mod..

Lol... i've been learning the past 2 days why people don't recommend a proper harness on a road car, it really is a PITA! Especially when you get all bolted in and realise your killswitch isn't in... 5 minutes later and your finally ready to drive off lol

I just put the L brackets both the same way on each seat, and they fit on the front mounting bolts, and for the back i drilled some holes in the floor, and made up some 2mm steel plates with nuts welded to them, and riveted them under the floor.Unfortunately no more looking at my car , since i'm in wellington now lol Passed my WoF this morning too, with a mention of the dodgy tyres on the back, but still legal

Well i've definitely had the practice...

Got my authority card today, turns out Motorsport NZ is way quicker if you actually go in and see them... Bookin in for a WoF at 8am tomorrow so fingers crossed it'll be roadlegal by 9

Mean, so u can give me a ride then