Forrest

Jesus. Perfection.

We got 12v at the coil but according to this, it might not be a good thing: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=27120 Didn't bridge the fuel pump pins to see if it was the relay, but there was power getting to it when we checked.

^ Will try my ECU tomorrow too, forgot to add that in, glad our cars are pretty much identical.

Wonder who wrote c**t on the windscreen To follow on from Anthony's post in a little more helpful detail; Ashkan all the dumb things have been checked. It cranks but we don't have any power to the idle control valve etc, along with no power to the fuel pump etc can't hear it turn on when the ign is on. ECU seems fine, unsure about ign coil as have just replaced it with one from pick a part but it might be a dud, never heard of one dying though. I want to say ign switch, but the instruments etc light up and it has power at the starter motor etc obviously because it cranks. I hope it is some dumb earth missing or something like that, in my experience it usually is when I have taken sh*t apart. Tomorrow we will try the coil out of my car and hopefully test for spark properly, still doesn't solve why the fuel pump isn't priming. - Nath

Since this thread has been bumped... Got the R888's mounted on the wheels...no leaks Look amazing on the car, I am stoked with the result and the minimal budget I had along with a fair few hours of hard labour make it all worth it. Not going to post any pics because most of the GC's on here will be at Taupo this weekend to see it in the flesh anyway, might get some DSLR pics done when I get back after the weekend. The rest of the car is done now, time to do a few track days and some B road thrashes and enjoy driving it for a change, in 6 months time or so when I graduate stage 3 can begin Cheers, Nathan

William, have you put the relay in the fuse box

^ This is what I did. Also try and find the original torque settings for the bolts when new and take a little bit off. I found a DIY that had it for RS rebuilds....new was like XXnm and re-used was like XYnm, because if you use the same torque setting as when they were new the bolts are more likely to snap due to already being stretched once.

^ I echo these thoughts, my M20 has done 309,000k recently mostly weekend driving and track days generally so it gets a reasonably hard life but with regular oil, spark plug and coolant changes I am hoping it will last atleast for a little while longer. According to my own pants dyno and others that have ridden/driven it, it still pulls a lot harder than many other less k's M20's. All comes down to maintenance etc, it is just a number. When I brought it the mileage was barely a consideration beacause a) M20's are so cheap to replace if they go bang and it was owned by 4 or 5 bimmersporters before me so you know it has had even just a little bit more preventative maintenence than just Joe Bloggs from the backwards hat brigade. If you want to talk about hi k's, well maintained cars talk to Simon My 2c.

^ Guess you have called dibs then

^^ Some decent RTV silicone from Repco, hi temp wank wank stuff, just praying to god they seal tomorrow at the tyre shop or I will cry. Could be some heavily discounted 4 x 100 RS001's for sale tomorrow hahaha.

^ No worries dude, it is all knowledge. I actually finished my set today, throwing my semi slicks on them tomorrow and I will take a few final pics, they ain't no show ponies but they will do, function over form Will be honest it isn't a job I would do again in a hurry

I got one, ABS has been removed so it just chills under my glovebox. Will save 5g of weight before the track day pm me.

For a POS E30. Has anyone ever had their central locking work normally from all doors, but the boot won't work? Any solution to this? because at the moment I can't open the boot or anything Have tried a different central locking control module under the drivers speaker and it has power there, but the boot seems to be dead, is the actuator toast?/can the boot be opened manually. Any help is appreciated. Nathan Edit: It opens now, the actuator rod had come off, but still won't lock on its own with the central locking? Any suggestions? It isn't too major and there is usually nothing in the boot anyway.

^ Yip. Fixed it anyway, the solenoid switch wire (black/yellow) wasn't plugged in properly been one of those mornings. Just bloody glad I don't have to replace it.

Can a M20 starter motor be removed in place?

Fast and the Furious called, they want their E36 back.

^ My other train of thought is that the starter motor might be rooted, will check for power tomorrow and maybe try and borrow one, can they be swapped in place? looks like PITA to get to.

^ Yeah I think this might be the case, it is a genuine one that still lights up green on the indicator, but it has been flat a few times lately. Will try that and see what happens

PFL E30 If a car needs to be jump started, does it still need a certain amount of juice in the battery for it to work? My car is still lighting up on the dash but won't turn over at all, though I did notice the battery symbol isn't lighting up either when I turn the key. Jump starting the car doesn't make any difference either, thoughts? Or is it Friday-afternoon-itis and I have missed something obvious? Cheers, Nath

^ By plugged do you mean the bolts put in the holes? I have taken out the rear seat in my E30 along with the complete rear seatbelt assembly but wondered if holes need filling or anything similar. /Slight OT

Classic, love your work

HB dude, have a awesome day

Monteiths Radler, Macs Twisted or Monteiths Summer Ale

Welcome mate, nice to see another Wellington member, I echo what Stephen says, definitely time for another meet up.

^ Thats goregous, awesome blog, well done.