Matty104

Ok so ive had a think and ive come up with a few ideas of whats different compaired to usual. My oil pressure switch apears to be leaking oil, (could that be causing a vacuum leak?) the oil tin light stays on for about 20seconds on cold startup, and today when turning a corner the light flashed , could it be the oil i used i got recomended to use 25w/70 comp 50 plus could it be to thick or thin ( not to clued up on oil viscositys) causing oil starvation? Sorry about all the random questions guys, i just have no idea where to go from here with trying to sort it out. Matt

sweet dude , send me a text as to when youll be up next and i should have it all out for you ( if my car decides doesnt want any more work done to it)

I had a look at the engine and gearbox mounts and they appear to be fine, the vibration hasnt come back today ( yet), went to see my mecanic mate, he said to change the plugs and leads and distributer cap as it could be a slight miss , leads appear to be fine, and have swaped my cap for my parts one which to my surprise looks brand spanking new, tomorrow I will do plugs and injector cleaner and top up the tank with 98 octane, and clean the airflow meter and icv with airflow cleaner, should add if i haven mentioned it already that it makes this vibration while the car is sitting still as well as moving , so shouldnt be the hanger bearing or guibo.

No nothing around the rocker cover area, just waterpump , dizzy , cambelt and pullys etc, and did an oil service at the same time, Would an air leak would cause the idle to be irratic (sp) on start up? And if it was to be an air leak why would it be only doing it at a certian rpm?, i have sprayed "start ya bastard" around air hoses etc and cant seem to get any fluctuations out of it

come round tomorrow and well pull it out brookey

brook, do you need both fronts , or just one? Blair , which side, are they reversable? as the rear drivers side likes to go mental some times haha

will be parting this car out now , let me know what you want and can sort it out , complete car worth of parts can not ship big items, smaller items are ok though Matt

anyone have an idea? drove 300km yesterday , its a little bit worse, ie rumbling from 1000 to 2000 rpm now, It couldnt be a misfire? as it only does it through that rev range.

nice car mate, may i say i love the colour ( because its the same as mine haha ) Welcome

Try getting some air flow sensor cleaner and clean the air flow meter and idle control valve out with it, it should help it, it fixed mine about a year ago but its slowly coming back , both mine and my flatmates cars do it, ( both e30's)

Thats your brakepad sensor mate, tells you when they need replacing, but it could be as simple as corroded points on the plug , theres a wire that goes to the front passenger brake caliper and one to the rear drivers side wheel, and about 100mm from the caliper there is a plug, puull that apart and put a but of crc in ther and clean it up and see if that makes a difference, and if you can , have a look at the pads at the same time

hey guys Heres the scoop, (after searching and coming up with not enough info) e30 , m20 325i, manual i did my water pump, and cambelt last night, torqued everything back up to spec etc, so was all fine after that, today after work I go for a little open road drive then head back home.pull into the drive way and the car starts vibrating slightly with the rev's between 1000 and 1500 rpm. the clutch release bearing makes a clunking noise when released , so my theroy is it could be that. BUT the clutch and p plate and bearing were brand new with oem parts in febuary, so could there any reason for it failing so early , could it just be "one of those things" or will it be something else? cheers Matt

Hey guys , just doing some research , are these the right parts and numbers i need to replace my waterpump and cambelt and tensioner? Also could any of our sponsers do a sharper deal on these parts? M20 325i last 7 digits of chassis number are AG64508 Waterpump Rmfd water pump 11519070759 $144.79 Gasket Asbestos Free 11511722677 $3.04 Cambelt TOOTH BELT SEMICIRCULAR PROFILE Z=127 11311713361 $71.10 ADJUSTING PULLEY 11311711153 $128.85 Cheers Matt

Thought I would post this up as i'm halfway through doing it myself ( have to order parts tomorrow) and it has come in bloody handy. I have minor Mechanical knowledge when it comes to these new fandangled motors and im having the time of my life learning as i go , Its very simple, So to anyone thinking of getting someone to do it for them, Have a look at this first M20 DIY Timing belt and waterpump Change Matt

That is amazing, i think i have to wipe away the drool now

sold!!!

allgood, wasnt sure on price , the one and only one ive seen on trademe was a year ago at $200 anyone want it for $60 then?

bump $150,need to get my car fixed so any fair offer considered for a quick sale

Bump, need it gone, the 325i craped itself so need the money asap

Na mate, manual conversion ftw, oh and to carzy arab, no its not turbo, thats just the oil cooler up front. Thanks for the positive coments guys, makes it so worth it, im so happy with how it is now

theres a screw in there basically where the speaker is, and if your doing the passenger side you have to unbolt the bonnet release also , then just pull it out a little bit to clear the carpet and pull it down( they are usually brittle so be careful)

few daylight photos, need a beeter camera, (and a cleaner car)

there won't be any spoinler going on there mate, i love staright simple lines so it will stay as is now,, ( except for fog lights when i get some more moolah)

why thankyou , looking foward to seeing in in the sun, should look wicked

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