yng_750

cool trademe tool i was sick of sifting through 800 good feedback to find details on the 40 negative on some profiles now theres this it auto sorts them into good neutral and negative catagories http://trademe-feedback-checker.cccp.co.nz/

awkward post

relisted priced to sell trademe link

im genuinely worried their navy could beat ours

voted for you and omg within 5 mins i had three txts from relatives saying things along the lines of "if your going to propose dont like wedding stuff on your facebook she will see it" then a call from my girlfriend saying quite awkwardly "are you looking at marriage stuff??? cos we have been going out 5 months and thats kinda fast dont you think?"

under offer on Trademe for $4800 $4500 for any BS member next couple of days until its relisted

NSFW you need an account due to r18 language apparently tauranga at its best

bump only a couple of days to go on trademe now

bump

gotta go as im heading off to europe and dubai http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=385956481

yup took the opportunity to do a coolant change doing an oil change also this week probably going to sell it in the near future as im hopefully off to europe in September

Back up and running thanks to HARTGE535i for the crank sensor as a quick tip to anyone running into either long cranking issues or no start at all take the engine cover off and at the front of each of the plug boxes there is a plug on the intake side the left one runs to the crank position sensor and the right runs to the cam position sensor you can test them in place just unplug and measure the resistance between pin one and two it should be around 550 ohms if its much higher like mine was then its probably stuffed

not quite sure what you mean but i presume it either means you have mismatching tyre sizing left to right or one side is worn enough to make a difference in overall circumference my guess would be the prior also the argument that it should pass because its better than crappy cars is fairly redundant her car is probably fairly run down compared to a 2010 car but a 2010 can still fail a warrent

bump

hey guys looking for a crank position sensor for a 1994 e38 740i version that mounts just to the left of the water pump and points at the front pulley bmw part # on the part i have is 1724056.2 pm me or text 02102745013

i pulled the cam position and crank position sensors the cam tests look normal however the crank sensor apparently should read around 650 with the multimeter on 2Kohm setting mine reds nothing there and only read when i put the meter in 200Kohm setting and then it just slowly raises in resistance constantly but if you touch the pins it goes back to where it started so somehow my inductance pick up coil is acting like a capacitor not much to go on but everything else is checking out so im gonna take a wild stab in the dark and replace it anyone know where i can get a crank sensor on a saturday in taupo.......

bah enough of this now im watching some boston legal and going to bed deal with this crap tomorow

on a whim i tried to do a stomp test turns out my check engine light doesnt come on at all suspected blown bulb though cam and crank angle sensors supposedly give some strange error codes its been raining heavily here and the sensor is meant to run around 650 ohms im told, so any water in the plug will mess with things another thing to check

from reading around sounds like it may be my crankshaft position sensor will try to give that a test tomorow

btw there are no warnings or check engine light etc on the dash

hey guys having a little trouble with my 94 e38 740i it has always started first pop until about a week ago when it cranked for about 10 seconds before catching and running fine then yesterday morning it would only crank over but would fire at all, no coughing or spluttering at all then after trying to start it about 4 times for 20 seconds each time it started and ran fine once it had warmed up it started again with no hesitation that evening it did the same thing and i had to try for a while to start it but when it started it ran fine this morning it did the same thing but wont start at all i smelt the exhaust after cranking for a while and could smell no fuel i had a play this evening to rule out a couple of common issues i have read about removed the fuel pump relay and opened it up and checked it moved when i tried to start the car it did not react i then held it open with a piece of plastic after this i could hear the fuel pump running under the car (quite a loud hum) but still no sign of starting at all i will check tomorrow in daylight whether it has fuel pressure at the rail and im not sure if i can with coil packs but will try to check whether it has spark anyone have any idea what my problem could be? or easy tests i could do to narrow down the issue? thanks in advance

kind of a fact thats one of the main things the hoses have to do to for the manufacturers to get road legality approval if it has the sleeve but doesnt have the stamp its illegal all lines must have a collar must be crimped with a certain pressure and every hose is pressure tested to 3000psi

is that for a pair or for 4?

that info you posted is in relation to the vacuum lines from the engine to booster. certification threshold says that braided lines dont need certification but must meet wof standards warrant standard implies the hoses he is looking to distribute carry both FMVSS106 and ADR42/04 markings so are fully road legal

Asking on behalf of a friend Just out of curiosity. How much would you expect to pay for ADR approved road legal Braided stainless brake hoses And how cheap would they have to be for you to consider replacing your rubber ones purely based on a performance gain not need of replacement