MLM

Wiring is complete. The wiring retains the factory data link connector minus ecu connection but allows connection to all other conponents, ie, service light reset etc. The loom itself is removable using factory connectors so if I ever want to I can plug the factory stuff back in. All tuning cables are accesable through the glove box and all other loggers etc are hidden away. The next step it to tune the engine on the road to build a safe base map for the engine and enjoy it a bit. While thats happening build the airbox and runners. This will require a battery relocation so this will be a phase 1.2 deal. CNC of the mold should start next week with laying up carbon over the summer break. Once the air box and possible exhaust is installed final tuning on the dyno will be done. Just pleased its all back together.

Racelign Mt wellington have been good for me in the past.

Figured this one out myself. Just thought i would close off the thread if anyone else searches for the same info. 12v it is. System works perfectly.

Yahooo! its alive! After a few epic back fires and an ingnition change it started up to a steady 1500rpm idle! Time for a beer. Next step is finish wiring, and get it moving under its own power.

Minor Update, but for me quite exciting Most of the wiring is done to the point I have put the battery in and started setting up the ecu and testing circuits. Of what i have tested so far (temp sensors, TPS) all are working, though the innovate LC1 is yet to talk to the ecu. Also tested the diy 4 channel igniter and it works Will see how it lasts but for now $40 vs $400 for the equivalent bosch part im happy. Aiming for next weekend for first start.

On the buying the ITB's dilema, look here http://www.dbilas-dynamic.de/dbilas_eng/index.htm and see what Dbilas claim for one of there ITB manifolds for a M20. With their chip they claim 20hp is typical, therefore all things being equal... Aftermarket chip or stand alone ecu plus ITBs should net roughly the same. Before doing anything though, research and learn everything you can. There are lots of good and free information out there.

Hi Quinn, To be honest measuring the plenum volume is a hard thing to do (in a ITB setup) in the sense of where do you measure from? I can get the volume of the plenum I designed easy enough from cad yet the ducting from there forward to the air box and the engine side of the filter can still be considered the plenum as it is part of the same volume. where do you stop? Volume is important when you have a throttle plate in front of the plenum like most factory cars however once you have ITB's the plenum is now effectively the volume behind the throttle plate up to the valve head the rest is just ducting to get the air there as efficiently as possible. I think there are two possible theory’s 1) The plenum volume is critical for taking advantage of pulse/acoustic tuning for dragging every last bit of power out of the engine though only at a particular RPM (where pulse/acoustic tuning works for you at one RPM it will be working against you somewhere else) 2) The plenum volume on a ITB setup should be such that it does not restrict the air flow, yet is so large it allows air to stagnate and heat up before being sucked into the engine. Which is what the mitsi guy you met was saying? The volume is restricted as you say by space which is where he may have come up with his volume to performance relationship Its an interesting subject with lots of ideas out there. I went for the minimal restriction theory...

Yep all new engine loom. Will be able to unplug at the fire wall connector, lift it out, and drop in the factory one if need be.

The obligatory Uh-oh Spaghetti-oh pic of an ecu install....

Well into the wiring this weekend, what a mission of a job! Thanks Ray @ Hell BM for the starter motor

Does anyone know what the tacho expects as a signal? Is it a 5v pulse or a 12v pulse? Im trying to intergrate a link g4 into the factory system as much as possible (obd1) Also if anyone has any good sources which specifies what signal each wire carries etc ie fuel consumption, speed sensor or any others that would be great. I already have the bently manual and the electrical trouble shooting guide. Cheers Matt

Ah ok, got to admit my first thoughts were, what was the fatigue life going to be in a vibrating enviroment and what happens in an accident. Awesome build!

Am I seeing that right? Is that a solid stainless fuel line?

Yep could use two of those, So far my igniter owes me $40 which is ok for an experiment. Pickapart is definatly plan B should it not work. I have a disease where if I need a part I tend to design and build my own if i can instead of getting off the shelf items. 9/10 times it saves a few $$ and I get to understand how/why things work. Just takes twice as long...

Labour weekend offered a bit of time to work on the car. Laminate some reclaimed MDF from the skip at work to make blanks for plemum mould. Now awaiting time on the CNC router Removed entire engine wiring harness , no wires cut so it slots back in. Next remake loom with Link G4 loom. Grabbed parts of a harness from Pick a Part to make new loom. Aim is to retain the data link connector and the ability to reset dash lights etc. Also started making a 4 channel igniter box as a experiment and as its, so far at least, a 10th of the price of buying a 4 channel igniter new. will see how that works out. Pics of this soon. And had a wee experiment with a coil on plug kit using the existing coils and 325 ignition stalks. On the fence at the moment as to whether this one will work or not. Might revisit it later once its all runing again.

A 4 map sensor would be a good solution, The link I just bought though wouldnt handle it though unfortunately. I do have the option of TPS and or MAP to play with so that should produce a tuneable result...I hope! The model to determine air flow pressure was defined as atmospheric pressure at the plenum inlet and .5 atmospheric at the runner outlet, ambient temp all walls. The actual final values are not worthy of close scrutinizing as I was looking at flow balancing and tended to look at the trends produced from various design iterations. Therefore the absolute values are somewhat pointless. When doing this I did comparisons between max theoretical air flow and max velocity to reveal any shadowing or unwanted turbulance. The only real conclusions you can draw from the anaysis is that what i have designed is better than what currently exists in terms of even air flow per runner. Hardly F1 stuff but helped me reach a good solution. Hope that explains it, this is all new to me so I cant claim to know even the half of it!

Yep essentially the same design, just a few tweaks to dimensions and surfaces to get things sitting right, but more or less the same. I am planning to make the chamber (dark bit in above pictures) from fibreglass using a mdf mold. The plan so far is to create two halves with a flange, these will be joined then the flange trimmed off and smoothed. I will post as I go. Its the first time I have done anything like this so we will see The light grey bits will all be aluminium, I expect this to be the most challenging bit as my machining skills are less than admirable again we will see how i go! Should both parts work out they will be joined by a yet to be decided method, maybe toggle catches or similar. Nothing like diving in the deep end...

Minor update: Link G4 storm arrived yesterday, and CNCing of the air box mold jacked up as well. Slowly preparing for a summer holliday in the garage..

To see some of the co-development of this car plus some other wickedly cool/fast cars check this site out http://www.dpcars.net/

Innovate LC-1 Installed over the weekend. Cruise Air fuel ratio is approx 13.4 while wide open throttle is between 13.4 up to 15.6 which is quite lean. General beatling arround though is acceptable. The unit is installed under the center console with the data logging and tuning cable accesable through the glove box.

A minor update with pictures...well "virtual reality"? ones at least! Plenum design is complete except a few minor tweaks, this is what i intend to build. Design features staggered and angled bellmouths. This proved to give the best flow from analysis. Not 100% perfect yet but one heck of a lot better than the current chamber and alot better than my initial "best guess". Interesting how what you think would be ok turns out to be deficient even when comparing to factory designs. A few more tweaks and it will be ready for manufacture. And finally a Innovate LC1 arrived in the mail today. I chose this to allow me to read and record my air/fuel ratio to see how things are performing and for the flexability a LC1 offers. Such as the ability to interface with a Link ecu. . EDIT: spelling.

Hi Lionel, I had mine done at rainbow powdercoaters North shore for ~$280 The issues with powdercaot (and paint) as i see it is getting it where its not wanted ie on friction surfaces (hub face/ bolt holes) As powdercoat is a decorative finish it should not be on these surfaces as it will break down making things work loose over time. If you dont want powdewcoat on a surface tape it of use corks etc for holes. I didnt do this and ended up with cleaning the hub faces afterwards which while more work gave a crisp edge to the finish. Admittedly i did not consult an engineer but powdercoating is a common process for wheels from factory and the curing temp is below the aneal temp (about half) of aluminium so I figured it was ok. So far my wheels have no chips or any other defects and the finish looks like new. A coat of wax when you first get them helps this. Here is my thread http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=26638

Powder coat is another alternative to paint. I had my wheels done gloss black and am very happy with the result, reasonably priced too.

http://www.club320si.com/making_e.html

Good day for a Birthday, Happy Birthday man.