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_ethrty-Andy_

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Posts posted by _ethrty-Andy_


  1. take the wheel off and have a look at the spline count and either post a photo here or compare to some pictures on line.

    Mtech2 wheels were produced in three types, two different sizes for the early spline like E30 (one size) and E34/E32 (othersize), very hard to tell these two apart without a tape measure

    and one type for the E36 which has the later "airbag" spline. Airbags were optional on E36, but this wheel was never available on late E34 as they all had airbags by this point, but can be retrofitted on as late E34 and E36 have the same spline. easy to tell this wheel apart from the early type, the horizontal bars have a slight droop to them whereas the early type are dead straight.

    Hope this helps


  2. On 22 January 2017 at 9:00 PM, viskop said:

    Hi Hayden, Thanks for your kind words. I'm not sure about the SA cars that are on trademe, as to how they got here, but you could be on the money. As for manual conversions, there a chap on trademe who is selling a full manual getrag gearbox for $1100 (and $1550+ for ZF). A chap on Facebook here in the Hutt has quoted around $800+ for doing the job (I don't have the knowledge). Then I am aware that one can't just go ahead and do the conversion as sometimes the computer does not "talk" to the gearbox, or vice versa.

    We live in Grenada Village and I work in Wellington CBD in Willis Street.

    Cheers.

    might have been me you asked to do it i seem to recall it. i have most if not all of a get rag 220 manual conversion kit here, you can PM me if interested.

    no modules to code on the E36 when converting to Manual, technically the DME should be flashed to tell it its a Manual now instead of an Auto, or you could fit a non-EWS Manual DME to it, but really its unnecessary expenditure unless you have cruise control and/or traction control which is rare anyway

    • Like 1

  3. got sick of the 5.2km 10 minute commute from my old house, so brought one a bit closer, 2km and 3 minutes away. would be quicker if i didn't have about a dozen speed bumps, shift up to third and leave it there the whole way.

    but a quiet day is 120km on the road once clocked in, can be up to 5-600km or more so once i clock out i need the shortest distance to travel possible between my desk at work and the beer fridge at home.

    • Like 2

  4. i made an order from ECS for $2500US of stuff, an order like that they should be eating from the palm of your hand. but no, they had shocking service, absolute run around to get any money to them, 4 or 5 phone calls to the US and ended up having to go in to ASB to do a wire transfer, then the parcel arrived a month or so later, parts hanging out of the cardboard. etc.

    anyway being the kind caring gentleman i am (LOL) i decided to give them another chance and have used them again. I made an order on the 27th December and as of this morning hasn't even been picked up from their warehouse but is supposedly packed ready to go. will i get it before February? March? they must have phenomenal service inside the USA because some how they have managed to stay in business.


  5. just thinking about it after i clicked off this thread, to be honest that kit probably has everything you need to swap over to the different japanese type anyway except for the fan shroud (WOF requirement, easy enough to find), so wouldn't worry too much

    another thing thats missing, only necessary if doing a comprehensive overhaul, is the viscous clutch for the fan.


  6. FCP kit looks good, just confirming your car has the japanese type external reservoir on the right hand side (drivers side) like in that picture, and not the New Zealand new type with the expansion tank built into the left hand side (passengers side) of the radiator?

    i note that it has the aluminium type thermostat housing, this is a worth while part, and the external expansion tanks common to split. the rest of the kit like the pully, the fan temp switch, belts and hoses may be needless expenditure, but might be nice to do it for the piece of mind everything is done.

    if your intention is to do the entire cooling system, that kit does miss out the hoses at the back of the head that go to the heater matrix, and the heater matrix itself. something to be aware of

    As for a Fenix aftermarket one, buying the same product local is one thing, but buying an inferior product for the sake of buying local is another. Get a Behr radiator (as in the kit you linked). 

    • Like 1

  7. happy to give you a hand tim, would love to see your cabby again,

    Although i have used those additives with success in the past, i have used them on shitty cars that i know i will be the final owner of. for your car, do it once and do it right. 

    I am presuming the leak is between the plastic and the core of the radiator? if so, a brand new Behr radiator is around the $2-300 mark, coolant another 40 to 60 for genuine bmw blue coolant (available from dealer, don't be scared to walk in the door there). Labour on top of that. As far as doing it yourself, its not the replacing the radiator itself thats the hard part, its the bleeding of the coolant that can be.

    • Like 1

  8. you can spend as much or as little as you like. if an inspection two service as prescribed in your owners manual is what you are after, then you will be looking around the $1600 mark i would think including labour, but since i have never paid anyone to do it before its a number i have guessed. 

    give us an idea of what you are looking for. a simple oil change (which is not and never has been a "service" contrary to many kiwis beliefs), a full lube, or an inspection one or two.

    if you have no record of the brakes and the power steering fluid being changed, it is well worth doing.

    • Like 1

  9. make sure you check your site coverage on your land too. out here in the Hutt i believe it is 30 or 35%, WCC might allow something else. just because there was a carport there before doesn't mean you can put a garage there, as a carport is not enclosed and therefore not counted in the site coverage.

    Also, echoing the posts above about the tilt door (mine is tilt, i know where i can park now but would be good to park up harder into the garage. And also make sure the top of the door is 2m + so you can get an SUV or Van in there later down the track. And plenty of power outlets, and i also have spots above the engine bay of the car, backwards opening bonnets on E30 E34 etc block out a lot of light.

    Hope this helps.

    • Like 1
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