swordfish

That is awesome! BMW official then again lol

Thank you Glenn, but don't really want them. I have a set of 18" BBSs (8' front and 8.5" back) on my car now with F1 rubber. Just wanted Forged M wheels because I love how they look and they will be better for track. So really looking for a perfect set with rubber for a reasonable price so I can just buy them and put them on. Cheers

Hello guys, I am looking for standard E36 M3 wheels. Forged M double spoke ones. In good condition. Preferably with tyres. Cheers.

Genuine BMW? Fiberglass or plastic? Approximate price?

Cheers will do

haha yeah I know!!! ...

Hello. Looking for Schnitzer Type 1 wheels 17" or 18", 35, 30, 20 offset. Preferably with Warantable tyres. http://www.cecwheels.com/images/medialibrary/t_1.gif http://www.cecwheels.com/images/medialibrary/t_1.gif If you have some of these, could you e-mail me the photos of those wheels and your price to s_w_o_r_d_f_i_s_h@msn.com Thank you.

Hey guys just after an E36 M-sport front lip for coupe. Preferably in Christchurch. Thanks.

Man if they were 17s or 18s I would rip them out of your hands!!!!

Oh ups sorry ignore the above comment ^^^ didn't see the previous discussion.

Would they fit E36's? thank you.

Still interested, but the final desicion is going to depend on final price. Thanks.

Why wouldn't they just keep it simple and make it look like a car not like a spaceship?! McLaren F1!!! The Best car in the World even today!!! A piece of engineering which was way in front every car back in a day! And still is. I think BMW started to pay attention to it's appearance more that it actually needs to... Round lights and square grills and a naturally aspired power punt... that what the BMW used to be and it should stay that way!

PM me too

Might be interested Are there any links to see what it is? thanks

It is a shame to see that such a high edge company targeting a new customer market and actually forgetting about the old one, just because they are hoping to earn more money... And I truly believe that new emission laws would really affect the looks either. It is like they forgot what the BMW used to be. To be honest, I can't see any of the BMW sporty and elegance look in new models anymore which is upsetting. It all looks Japanese and kind of fake. As somebody already said I think Audi is ripping it’s a huge benefit out of it... What a shame. Well let’s hope that BMW will rethink their new models and we all will be all happy again.

Yeah... Me too but apparently there is since i bought a pair and they did not suit my brackets.

Coupe or four door?

Thanks alot for help. Have e-mailed the guy today see what he will say

Thanks alot this set up looks very proffesional and very reasonable in price... do you know where did they order all the parts from in America??? I mean what shop?

Hey guys!!! I have been researching for so long and it tends to a very undefined area. So here is the main question: What do you think is the best suspension set up for street/track use for M3 95 Euro. Everything it needs to be a great handling car, even though it is already lol But anyway... So here is what I have come up with: 1) front strut brace, 2) cross strut brace, 3) front camber/caster plates, urethane bushes and joints, 4) rear coilovers reinforcement plates, 5) rear control arms, 6) coilovers (springs included) interest me the most... a few suggestions (standard coilovers from BMW, good but not adjustable, and they need new springs. Which ones are better?), Billenstine PPS9 or PPS10 not sure which are better and why, Koni coilovers... Is there anything else that I need to include here guys? Please note the reason I am asking is that I love this car and I want to leave this car in my possession for a long period of time, I know some people will say why would you ruin such a great car with all this stuff, but the answer is simple... my current suspension will need to be changer sooner or later and since the suspension component technology is 15 years old I have a feeling that there is a space for an improvement but if there is not just tell me I want to post it here since I think this will be a great topic for discussion and I really hope it will be.

Ok... I knew that there will be someone there who would tell me to put the standard lights back on... I am sure this is a perfect solution and it will not cause any trouble on the road... However I don’t think that my xenon lights with a proper height adjustment and eyelids really do so much damage to my fellow drivers' eyes. I love my xenons and I am not going to get rid of them just by a simple reason that they are way better than standard lights. It was proven that xenon lights provide way better visibility due to the nature of the light produce by xenon bulbs. It's not just in normal conditions, they are proven to be the best for foggy conditions as well. The angel of the xenon lens is much wider as well, which improves side vision at night (which doesn't apply to me lol). I am sure Germans would not put the xenon on all their new cars if it wouldn't be properly tested and proven to be better than standard lights. However for those who put the aftermarket xenons into their cars, using plug and play sets the problem usually arises due to the standard lens, which is used for a standard bulbs and does not cut a full light spectrum produced by xenons, that’s why xenon sets which are not standard on car can blind you really hard and look bluish or purplish. Anyway the xenon set I have now is an 8000k and it produces really white colour light and a bit of blue on the sides. I have gone through my warrant no problem since I had them perfectly adjusted and eyelids keep the light going into other people’s eyes. My suggestion for those who are interested in putting some in... Put the 6000 or 4300k ones they are the whitest you can get and nobody will ever distinguish between those xenon bulbs selling in Repco or Supercheap (trust me you will if you will drive the car). The best thing to do if you’ll get hold of some xenon lenses and fit them into your lamp and then put the xenon into them, that’s what I wish I could do, but I couldn’t find any lenses. I hope this helps for those who are interested By the way I am not trying hard at all. I am just making my car to be what I want it to be. I am not doing it for show, trust me I am not that kind of person.

Hey guys, I have installed xenon lights on my M3 95 and now I get a “low beam light failure†message on my OBC. I was wondering if you could help me to eliminate it. I went through a variety of threads on all sorts of sites. And there are a couple of solutions out there such as cutting the wires for the check control unit, which I don't want to do. There is one, which I am interested in and it is related to the resistance. Normal bulbs are 55w and have a resistance of 4omh if I am not mistaken; apparently the xenon lights have no resistance and are 35w. I have connected them through the battery and relays not to cook my wires in the car. So the current is 12V. So now I need to find out what is the resistance which is taken as “normal†by my on board computer. Then find the correct resistor and plug it in parallel circuit. Could you guys tell me if I am correct? Maybe there are more solutions to it, apart from taking them off... What size of the resistor I would need and is it going to work? I'll really appreciate any help. Thanks.

Hey guys, My mirror heating on one of the sides of my car stopped working. I have pulled it apart to see if the wires are loose and they seemed to be ok. I haven't taken the mirrow out yet, but I will if I have to. Do you have any idea what could it be? I'll appreciate any help. Thanks.

Hi guys, I have decided to see if any of you friends could help me to get rid of this heart-ripping problem... My M3 95 euro gets this strange vibration which goes through the whole body It happens at a certain revs only starts around 2000 revs to about 2700 at 2500 it is the hardest!!! The only thing I can say it happens at all gears... and at any speed. At neutral and first it is the hardest, then it gets a bit less but I guess it is just due to less pressure on the engine... Please guys any ideas will help. I know there are a few very experienced members here who might be able to help me... My suggestions are it is either the engine mounts that has been worn out and now the engine touches some body part at some stage and resonance into vibration or it is the engine cats that has been burn out in my exhaust and it has something to do with the air… I know this might sound pretty stupid but this is my best guess…