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Everything posted by smokenbaby

  1. yes there more and likely is. But the main point about this post is to try and get away from the EWS system. Car will mainly be a race car for the BMW Open class and will spend only the amount of time on a public road as nessessary to go and get a WOF. Ideally we will need to get ride of the EWS. Thanks for your comment though.
  2. Am doing a conversion on an E30 MTECH 2 325i for a customer. Putting in a E46 330i motor. What I need to know is all about the EWS system. The customer has been able to get the EWS controller and key with the motor/loom/computer but that is all he has supplied. When asked if he can get the wiring harness the answer was no because the donor car is already crushed. What I am asking is: is there a way to disable EWS (i think it is version 3) so I don't have to worry about ordering a very exspensive wiring harness from BMW just to cut it apart to isolate the EWS wiring. The customer still wants to retain the standard computer so going aftermarket is not an option. Plus, being twin Vanos, cheaper computers don't have a reliable VANOS system in them. Hopefully someone on here will be able to solve this for me. Thanks
  3. No need to get a full pedalbox. All you need is the clutch pedal/cylinder,hose etc. The pedal boxes are the same across the board. 318-m3 manual to auto.
  4. would be the cheaper option. I was lucky enough to get a M3 front with extra lip off a mate for $300 new as it was a spare from his touring car days.
  5. nose panels are not that dear new from the dealer. I paid $160 less 15% for my new pre F/L one. Bumpers are hugely dear at a tad over $1300 just for the skin alone.
  6. Something like this is where the first evolution will hit the track. Progress has been slow over the last couple of months. Planning on spending all of xmas break working on the car. Hopefully will have it back on some wheels with the motor in and box behind it. This is just for a dummy up to work some stuff out.
  7. give me a buzz on 021 425 264 if you want. I could even meet you in Waikanea at Waikanea Tyre and Lube if it helps. Oh, that way you can have a nice little cruise over the Akers.
  8. If you drive upto Otaki you can have what ever you want for a bottle of beam. The only thing I may keep is the sump.
  9. when they are to worn! Measure the width of them and if the they are thinner than the recommended thickness, change them. Do pads at the same time and make sure you bed them in properly.
  10. I have a complete 85 320 motor you can have. Blown head gasket and has been sitting for over a year. Not worth much as is more and likely siezed now but manifold should be all good.
  11. do the gearbox mounts and drive shaf coupling yourself. Should only take abou 30 min to do both. Gearbox seal is not to hard to do in place. You just need to be careful when doing.
  12. or just unplug it at the and manually pull the pin back. That way if you really wanted to, you can push it back to lock the fuel flap.
  13. I would have to assume that these holes were made by a lazy/careless smoker. If that is the case then you only have to look at the smokers in your group. If no one smoked in your group then your are fully within your right to deny coffing up for the repairs. Are you sure that the holes were not already there. Can you take your friends word that they happned while you were there. To many questions and variables for my liking. Either way, someone will have to pay for it. Your friend or your group or an individual will be out of pocket.
  14. Bendex brake clean. NOT CRC. Be careful to apply to rag and then wipe, don't spray directly onto the paint. This should be the ticket, but try in a small place out of sight as a test first. Don't use Jif, thinners etc as it will destroy the paint under neither
  15. I have a complete Ti rear end minus diff head. You for the taking if you pick it up or sort the freight from Paraparaumu. It has one bent arm but you don't need it so all good.
  16. that is all that I had planned on doing. I hadn't however thought about replacing the top arm with a moly one. Was just going to leave it there. But seem I am running coilovers in the rear it make so much sence to bin it and save a little bit of weight. If you don't mind I'll pick your brain some more when I need a secong opinion. Thanks
  17. From memory is there anything special needing to be done to the rear ends. I'm lucky in the respect that M3's come standard with the subframe-chassis mount double plates so that is already taken care off. I have rear chamber adjustable arms already but what else the norm for E36 race cars. The front is pretty much well sorted.
  18. This is exactly what I am doing to the front of my car. Have it all drawn up and ready to start machining it. The block at the back is nice and easy to produce as it is just cut from 25mm alloy stock. I have a few options here. We have some at work that I can grab but they need a rebuild as they have been sitting for quite a few years. Another option is to install some D2 brand airjacks, my price for a set of 4 is pretty good. That is pretty bloody nice looking. I like it. You would have intimate memories of my friend Aaron Harris's old e36 tourer then. Is the ex Beird 325i.
  19. I'm hearing you there. But sometimes the building is a pain in the ass and never gets done as you loose interest and it turns into a 3 year project. Oh, Ill be leaving the rear mount of thr front arms pretty much where they are to start with. My friend used to race a NZ 2ltr touring car and he is leanding me advice on the set up also. I know that he did some stuff to the rear end to make it better.
  20. Tube front arms are about to get jigged up at work so no photos yet. The cross member is going to remain unmodified only so I can replace if bent without the need to remodify on or have a spare. The pick-up point will be the same as factory as I am having some special pins made that replicate the balljoint pin but have a “U†shaped slot on the end for the Rosejoint to mount to, and I will be running “pins†at the strut end to maintain the correct arm/steering heights. As yet I have not started to cover the rear end. Moving the rear control arm points will be something to work out as well. Will have to do some research on this to see if there is a need for it. I have a pretty good contact through work that should be able to see me right on this. Air Jacks are a definate luxury. To be honest with you. A guided tour is of no real use as there isn't much to look at yet. Most of the work has been done on paper not on the car yet. Once more progress has been made on the car then I may be in a position to show you it. Anyone is more than welcome to come check it out at a track when it is finished. No dramas there at all.
  21. Air Jacks, to install or not to install. Would make things alot easier when it comes to Enduros and also servicing the car at home. Have a few options on what to buy and install. Will be a nice feature and of cause will add to the wankability of the whole finished project. Might have a few photos to add soon. Stay tuned for an update soon.
  22. Seem you are wanting more than just a standard repo in Fibre you will be paying for one to be custom made. Just go get a price from someone that makes moulds and you will have your answer.
  23. smokenbaby


    Wind free Wellington does happen. I must admit, I live up the coast so is not as bad when it comes to wind. If you are doing a lot of bogging then you need to prime, sand, prime, sand. This is to reduce the amount of sink back you get. Make sure you use a good primer. 2k is good but epoxy is better. I stay with 2k as the cost is a little cheaper. Engine bay there is only one way to do it properly. Remove everything in there so you have nothing left to get in the way. Mask up all holes that go in to the car (from the inside) and treat the painting of it the same as you would the outside of the car. If you want to remove the window is the best way. You can get special masking tape that you hook under the window rubber and it pulls it up and out of the way so you can spray under the rubber. I haven't use this yet as I always just take the windows out but will use it when I touch up my car later this year. I would highly recommend you use a good brand paint. PPG, Debeer (spelling), Standox etc. That way you are sure of a good finish that will last. Nothing worse than spending your time doing this and it flattening off with in a few months. Very disheartening.
  24. smokenbaby


    If I had time on my hands I would be more than happy to lend a hand. If you need advice just ask but I am unable to commit time in actually doing it sorry.
  25. smokenbaby


    what are you all scared off? 2pac paint, on a warm day in a garage is more than fine. The biggest problem is the person behind the gun. If you are not a painter or have any experience with painting then the job will be crap no matter if you use a booth or your toilet. I have painted a few cars now either in a garage or outside on a nice wind free day. Good job done on all and not needing to be buffed. Baking is good as it helps “gell†the paint into a smooth finish but depending on what bog and how much/deep there is on the car you can expect holes when finished. The heat pops the air bubbles in bog and you get the holes. Sink back is also a nasty thing with bog and this will happen with a pro (doing a perky) or you doing it. The time needs to be put in to prime, sand,prime and let the primer settle properly before painting. Just take the bull by the horns and get into it. You will see the results of your labour if you spend the time. Good luck
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