smokenbaby

Could also be a seized caliper slider. Piston is probably the main reason for this happening but check for a seized slidder. You could also have a problem where a pad might not be place in the caliper correctly ie, it may be on the piss so to speak. If this is the case it wont allow the pad to move in the caliper and will bend and bind up.

Good man “Conrodâ€. Just don't forget to post pics as you go. I am very interested in this lil project of yours. Have been thinking about doing a new Race car for a while. What you are building is pretty much what I was wanting. Funds are short as a house is on the horizon but once I have a garage of my own I should be good to go.

Have now got some, so please don't look any further.

And an Oil pump/oil pickup

No need for a cert as you have not cut or modified your original seat rails. There is also no current safety standard for seats in ROAD cars in NZ. The seatbelt mount hasn't been modified at all. It is mounted the exact same way as the standard BMW fitment. Yes, this can be adapted for mounting any other seat that has bottom mount. Anyway, have fun. quote name='Munts316i' date='Sep 4 2006, 04:05 PM' post='92648'] cheers for putting this up mate No worries there buddy

Red's limo has pulled more punany than any other car I know off. Pitty he still didn't have it. Got a good price for it when he sold it. Hope the current owner gets a good price also.

Done and link added.

I was trying to work out how to get it in bold. This was just to make people aware that the pics will be posted when I can. Andrew/Gus, how bout I mail them to you, could you put them up for me. Cheers

Step 1, Unbolt your E30 seats from the car. Step 2, Remove the seat rails from the seats. This is done by removing the Clevous Pin at the front and unbolting the seatbelt latch and Bolts from the opposite side. Once you have done this you can use a large flat blade screw driver to lever the rear mounts off the “swing†pivot. Step 3, Unbolt the Evo rails from the Recaro's and throw away - you don't need any of them. Keep the Allen Key bolts though. Step 4, Make new mounts to be bolted to the Recaro's. Use some 50mm X 50mm X 3mm Right angle steel. For the front mounts you will need to cut 2x 50mm lengths. Drill 2x 6.5mm holes to mount to the seat and 1x 8.5mm hole for the rail mount. Make sure you cut the extra off as it will stick out the side and can be dangerous. You can make this look nice by angle cutting the mount into a triangle shape as in the picture below. Step 5, To make the rear mount, is pretty much the same as the front but you only need to drill 1x 6.5mm hole to mount it to the seat. Once again use some 50mm X 50mm X 3mm Right angle steel. The only other difference is you need to drill a Large (not sure of the size) so you can slide it over the rear Pivot Shaft. This is where you bolt the seatbelt back on. This is now the seat mounted to the rail at the back. Using some washes as spacers you can now mount the front to the rails. See the picture below. Step 6, Mount the buggers in your car and go for a drive. If you find that the seat is angled forward when sitting in it (as I did first attempt) just make 2 new front mounts at a longer length ie, still use 50 x 50mm but drill the hole closer to the end. I ended up drilling mind about 10mm from the end. This puts a nice rake on the seat. http://www.putfile.com/smokenbaby/images/11701

You can buy adaptor/spaces that convert 4 or 5 stud to centre lock. This could be a better and economical way to retain the tough look of centrelock. Go on you know you want to.

Will do. It is a very easy way of mounting them. I also have a contact that imports EVO3's and Parts them out, he always seems to have seats for sale. When I got mine off him it was $400 for both fronts and the rear. Absolutely mint ones are like $500 a set from him. I'll have the thread up bover the weekend. I'll take photos of mind and have the drawings done by then.

Here is a list of parts and basic info for the swap Parts Needed: -Engine: Any M50 or similar engine will work. We personally prefer the post 92 m50 engines since it came equipped with VANOS, a form of variable valve timing (for more info consult your Bentley Manual). Engine Mounts: Use the standard e36m50 aluminum engine mount arms, along with the e28 535i motor mounts. These do not have to be modified. Use the outter hole on the e30 subframe vs. the inner hole which is used on the m20 engine. The m50 engine will bolt right in, no mods, welding, cutting, needed. Oil Pan: An e34 525i M50 oil pan will be needed, along with the e34 525i oil sump, and the e34 525i dipstick tube and dipstick (and of course an oil pan gasket). This is needed to clear the subframe and sway bar in the e30. With the e36m50 oil pan removed, you will have to remove the e36m50 oil windage tray for clearance. There is also a brace for the e36m50 oil sump pick up that has to be removed in order for the e34 oil pan to fit. Since the bearing cap bolts have to be removed in order to take the brace out, and the fact that we do not want to wait for the dealership's special ordered parts to come in, we just broke the old bracket off by bending it back and forth until it cracked off. Throttle Cable: The throttle cable from the e36 will be needed due to fitment issues. We tried both; the e36 works. We also wanted the cruise control to work, so we took the end from the e36 and replaced the e30 end with the e36 connector to mate up to the throttle body. The stock routing remained the same. Radiator: Both the e30, and the e36 325i radiators will work. We chose to go with a new Bher e36 325i radiator which is actually cheaper than the e30 325i, by a few bucks. The hoses from the e36 325i were used as well. We found that the e30 radiator may have provided more clearance for an engine fan. We currently do not run an engine fan and we have had no problems of overheating as of yet (knock on wood). You CAN fit a fan but it is extremely close. An electric fan is ideal. Be sure to throw out the plastic thermostat housing and update this with the aluminum styled thermostat housing, and a new thermostat. This is cheap and will save you headaches later on. Air Intake: Due to space limitations, neither the e30 or e36 air box will fit once the 24 engine is installed. To compensate for this, we simply used a cone style filter and custom welded a bracket to hold the air flow meter and filter. Temperature Sending Unit: This was a pain to figure out. Cut to the chase, we use the temp. gauge sender out of the e30 m20. This is the BROWN sender with the single lead coming out from it, not the double. Threads neatly into the m50, and used the same connector. -Transmission: Word on the street is that the e30 M20 5 speed transmission will work in the m50 conversion. We did not do this, so the information is still undetermined. We used the stock transmission that came out of the 93 325i, but any 325i e36 transmission will work. This allowed us to used the e30 driveshaft which bolts right up to the newer transmission. Change your clutch! This is the perfect time to install a new clutch and it is no fun with this drivetrain in an e30 later on. Shifter: Stock e36 325i shifter base with all the accessories. We opted to go with the Z3 shifter which creates a shorter throw in the shift pattern. We found the Z3 shifter to be better than the stock e36 shifter handle, but we were not as wild about it as some people are. But $79.95 beats $300 for a UUC or similar handle. Transmission Brace: Stock e30 transmission brace, was used along with optional e21 320i, transmission mounts. We chose these mounts vs. the standard e36 mounts due to their thicker 12mm studs and better overall structural integrity. If you use the 320i mounts, the transmission brace holes will have to be enlarged from 10mm to 12mm to accommodate the studs, and the transmission ears also have to be opened slightly. Reverse Light Switch: e30 reverse light switch, can thread into the e36 transmission. This will allow you to use the existing reverse light switch wiring. The e36 wiring that comes on the engine harness can be neatly tucked away. Guibo (Flex Disc), THIS IS COOL!: We found that the standard e30 10mm bolt holed guibo can work with the swap. Does this mean that the e30 guibo can be used on the e36? Perhaps! And it is $20 cheaper than the e36 guibo. If anyone has more info as to whether or not this will work I would love to know. -Driveshaft: The stock e30 5 speed driveshaft will work fine, or you can also use the e36 driveshaft that had the four bolt rear section that mounts to the differential output flange. The later e36 shafts with the CV joint style will not work. If you are using the e36 shaft, be sure to install the e30 driveshaft center support bearing.

“Thats some nasty looking welding, gas cutting makes it look even worse“ this was a general comment not directed at yourself. As for my opinion, I only have one right now. That is “if anyone is wanting to buy this seat, do so. It is a cheap way of getting comfort. If you can find a matching one then you are home and hosed†Hope the sale sees your account mature. Good luck.

Thats some nasty looking welding, gas cutting makes it look even worse. But mind you, it got it into you car and you drove in comfort. It is very easy to BOLT these seats (evo 1-3) onto the standard E30 rails. No need for cut and weld. Will fly through a WOF check. If I remember I'll post a thread that explains how to do it and I'll even draw up the mounts with measurements etc. Pic's will be included. I have done this with my E30 using EVO3 Recaros.

Relay had the coil windings come apart. No way to fix it. Have re configured and wired in a new relay holder so I can run any run of the mill off the shelf relay. Had to run a new ground wire for terminal 85 so the relay switched. There must be a dead short somewhere between the original relay block and the fuse box. Is all good now and running. Thanks for all the suggestions and GUS thanks for the offer of a relay.

While doing my 2.5 conversion, the mighty E30 was stationary for a little over two weeks (waiting for lost parts to be either replace or turn up). In the process or the conversion I thought it a good idea to locate and fix a couple of water leaks in the front. One of the leaks was around the steering column mount at the firewall. There is only a foam gasket that is for sealing, this was shagged and the only thing I could do at the time was use urathane as a sealing medium. This meant removing the mount and applying urathane to the firewall and re fixing the mount.The following day when I took the car for it's first drive I could hardly turn the steering it was so tight. After a bit of movement left to right I decided it free enough to drive home from the workshop. After about 20 minutes it was that tight I thought the end was neigh due to acident. Managed to get it home safely. Now, I was fully expecting to find urathane had seeped into the lower bearing and causing it to become tight. After pulling the column out I soon found no trace of urathane. The bottom column bearing had actually siezed in the two weeks the car had been off the road. The source of water getting into the bearing is the sock drain on the drivers side of the scuttle panel. The water runs out of it and straight into the column. Water getting stuck in the bearing had caused the seizure. I would seriously recommend all you E30 owners to check this and clean and grease the bearing. This has now made my steering super smooth and what was once irratically thight is no longer.

The pump does not determine the fuel pressure....the fuel pressure regulator does, you can interchange just about any of the pumps. You are right about the Pressure. After a few swear words, 6 bourbons and one of our German born Heidleberg Printing Press Technicians careful measuring with his multimeter, we determined the Relay was at fault. Using the Jumper wire across terminals 30 and 87 we had fuel streaming from the fuel line. Put it back on the fuel rail and hey presto it fired. Now all I have to do is find one at Repco as Shelly BMW don't have any in stock. Failing that I will have to wire a universal run of the mill Bosch relay holder and relay in. Fingers crossed no more relay blow. Thanks for all the help on this guys. Much apreciated

I take it you are home then. Any chance of a ride???????

I would say they will. There is a small difference in Fuel pressure between the 2 pumps.

Thanks Andrew. Will post my results once known.

The relay is the first thing I'll be checking when I get home. Have spoken to BMW and they seem to think it is a common fualt and by giving it a jiggle it may help. Failing that I am looking at a new relay. It could just well be in relation to the 2.5 install. Car was already Manual. The wiper relay shat itself when I took it for a drive on Monday. Not sure how an engine swap can sh*t a wiper relay though. All earths and power feeds were checked and didn't come up with voltage irregualarities (spelling) so who knows what is happening. Pump is still the 2lt pump as I didn't have time to swap as car needed to be on road and is planned for this weekend.

Michael, big thank you for offering this service to Bimmersport. Not every dealer/service centre does this. Prices are prices and I am sure that if you go down your local garage you will get a cheaper priced WOF and Oil Change but are you actually getting the same quality and workmanship. Don't get to upset if people want to preform their own work on their cars or have someone other than Shellys do it. Keep the offers coming. Every little bit helps.

Carl, thanks for the reply, Really didn't think anyone would with the current dislike. I did a few checks this morning when it failed to start, one of which was the nose up the exhaust, there is not even the slightest of gas smell. The injectors don't apare to be firing but is this due to the fact that there is either no fuel getting to them or possibly the Injector relay may be shagged also.

Ok, turned it off last night (running perfectly) and this morning it wont start. Battery is fully charged, Motor cranks as per normal, there is spark but it wont start. I am thinking it could be the fuel pump relay but was wondering what you all think. It is E30 325i engined 320. Sensors in the bell housing for TDC and Rev counter. Does the Fuel Pmp run when the ignition is turned on or does it run when the computer gets a signal from the TDC sensor. If the later then I need someone to listen for Pump as I can't from opposite side of the car. Any help would be great.