smokenbaby

Is going to be quite a bit different to that set up. I am using the standard tank still as it keeps the weight forward of the rear wheels and low in the car. But the system is the same in principle.

Update: Picked up the Motor yesterday. Was the 3 ltr on trade me a while ago. There were some posts saying it was just a dressed up 2.5 and not a genuine M3 motor. This couldn't be further from the truth. It is the original motor out of my car and all the number match, plus I know the history. My chassis number is eh02510 if you want to check. But anyway. it takes the car one step closer to being on the track. Things that are in the pipeline and progressing well are Moly front control arms (fully adjustable), front and rear moly swaybars, brakes are researched and sorted (just need to order) Fuel system is underway (tank set up for quick fill but only using a single filler to start with. Carbon fibre with alloy honeycomb panels for the door openings and drivers floor, and plain carbon firbe panels for door, quarter and rear firewall are sorted with patterns cut out. Things I haven't started to think about yet - wiring, paint, wheels/tires, seat the list goes on. Still got a bit of engineering to do before the car gets primer ready for paint. Paint is the last thing to be done. Is a shame to completely build the car and then have to strip it to a bare shell again just to paint it. I'll post some update pictures one day once I sort through them.

you can always get some steering stops put into your rack. These are just machined up mylon bushes that sit in the end of the rack and limit the amount of full lock. Worth a shot.

A hard bargin

I wouldn't think they have a difference between 4 and 2 doors. Engine size could mean a different spring. But when buying was not asked how many doors or if it was 4 or 6 cyl.

I am on Jamax S/L and have just cut my bottom spring platforms on the front off and raised them 25mm. This is cause in the last 2 years (how long they have been in) they have sagged to the point of me having no travel at all in the front. sh*t springs but that is all I have at the mo. Funny enough the rears are still the same height as when new.

or you can raise your spring platforms like I'm about to do due to my springs sagging and the resultant lose of travel will destroy my Bilstiens. You would think that Jamax or other well known spring manufacturers product wouldn't sag.Oh well sh*t happens.

If you need a new Oiler pipe the part number is 11421265376 and is costed at $20 us. Shouldn't be to dear in Aussie dollars. You are right that it will be cheaper to get a complete head in Aussie than shipping mine over. Good luck with the issues. Please report back with findings.

Check the oil spray bar that runs from the front of the head to the back. If this is blocked or the securing nuts are loose you will be gettint no oil to the cam lobes. This happened to my 320 and it made the motor tappy. Also wears the cam lobes as there is no lubricant. This can/will cause lack of power, if only a couple of lobes are worn through lack of oil it will cause a funny/rough idle also as the valves don't open fully (opposite effect to a “lumpy†cam generating more lift). I have a spare motor you can have for free if you pick it up. Head gasket blown and the block will be rusted by now but the head is still good.

It wouldn't by chance be the white one park down Muri Rd in Puke Bay? If so, I seen it when visiting my friends that live at the end of the lane (on the left where the F150 sometimes parks) damage isn't that bad. I have the white E30 (noisey one) that turns up there every so often. I would just put a new Bumper on it and pull the panel out by hand and then radiator. Is the Radiator the small one of the full length one.

BNT - Brembo disks $100 each trade prices. Don't waste your time with secondhand.

The bars that are circled are the main issue with MANZ. MANZ say that the backstays have to go from the top of the main hoop to either the rear wheel arce or the suspension points and MUST be as close to the outside of the car as possible. To comply with this it would have ment a whole lot of pissing around to do so. It would have ment that there were some wasted bars as they would have been redundant. But hey what do you do? Have to have it homologated so had to change the design. On an interesting note, if you buy an ex super tourer/BTCC car you have to add the 2 back stays in just to comply it here. Why do the FIA deem the cages safe enough for international motorsport and MANZ don't. Even buy the factory build WTCC 320's would be non compliable here. Go figure.

Hey Alex, they comply for OSCAR as it is basically an all commers class anyway. We can also run with Brennon Sport Sedans as they allow a minimum 3ltr and above 6 cyl Natural Asp. You might be able to help me with some parts. Copy the cage for sure. It is pretty full on and is going to be a pain to paint but sh*t happens. All in the name of safety. I'll be making some pretty cool Suspension parts that you may be interested in also. We could team up and run a 2 car team in the enduros once they are both finished. I don't mind running carspot on my car. Yes I know I am cheeky.

Been a long time but here is a wee update. Car has now got the cage in. After talks with MANZ and them telling me I couldn't have a Super Touring cage as they wouldn't Homologate it we settled on the next best thing. My friend Karl built the cage for me as he has over 100 cages under his belt and works for MacBilt Engineering (oh so do I now part time) Basically the cage ties in everything that we deemed it needed to. I'll let the picture tell the story. There are still a couple of things to be welded like the A and B pillar attachments but that will happen when the seat mounts are welded in. Other than the cage, I have been busy researching suspension and break options. Drawing up new front Moly Arms and attachment mounts and seam welding the chassis. Well this will do as a bit of a teaser. Enjoy.

Even if they bolt on you will have a costly exercise to convert you M20 block/crank etc to chain drive. Just put a twin cam motor in and be done with it.

I work part time at a race car prep shop in the wellington area. Am sure we can sort the cage out for you and do what ever else is required for you to get the authority card and homolgation. Once you are here just send me a PM and I will give you the contact details.

I have interest on the steering wheel at present. If it goes no further I will sell seperately. No sensors sorry. They were already gone.

Am selling the airbags out of my '94 M3. Included is the Complete Steering wheel (M series) and dash airbag. Make offers over $200. for the lot. Steering wheel can be used without airbag. Pictures can be emailed to all interested parties. Edit: Topic may be misleading. Dash is not for sale. Just the airbag from the dash. Sorry for confussion.

you could give Clive a ring at Miro Auto Services. 528 5873. Tell him Clamp sent you in and he may just sort you out. He is busy so you would have to arange a time.

if the one out of my 94 M3 will work for you, you can have it for $50. 021 425264

how much. Just PM me the price.

I would beg to differ. It took me almost a year to find a gearbox for my '87 2.5 conversion. It is Motronic not L-Jetronic. I went as far as building a jig so I could cut the sensor ports out of an auto bellhousing and weld into my 320 gearbox. '87 325's are the only model that run these gearbox sensors for RPM and TDC. I have done alot of research on this and found that even if you find a gearbox with blanks in the bell housing it is very important that you drill the sensor holes in the exact right place or the car will run like a sack of sh*t. Your best bet is to find late model 325 injection , comp and wiring. That way you can run the crank angle off the front and the RPM how ever it gets it from late model.

if the gasket that was on the diff is still in one piece and not ripped then you are best to reuse it. Smear a little bit of your sealer on both side of gasket to act as an adhessive and you are in business. Bon't just the sealer on it's own. Oil is petrolium based and can still break down sealer. Make sure you tighten the diff bolts to the required torgue settings also.

www.verticaldoors.com They don't do E30 but this is a look at E46. Description: Includes: 2 gas shocks 2 VDC hinges (one for each side) All mounting hardware * Original Door hinges are Welded on * This kit is Direct Bolt on if you self drill * Professional installation is recommended $2,495.00 US

It wont stiffen up antmore at all. You also have to be careful how the shocks are shorten. The way most people shorten their shock is by cutting the thread off the shaft at the tp and then turning a new thread onto it. OK this shortens the overall length of the shock but does nothing what so ever for handling, shock life or bottoming out. The ONLY and best way to do it is to send the shocks away to someone like STOCKS and get them shortened properly. This means the shock body is shorted only with the staft. What you end up with is a shock that is shorter overall but retains most if not all of the available travell. This will improve handling as there will be no bottoming out and the shock will not destroy itself. This will be costly to get done so you are better off buy NEW shorter shocks off the shelf. Bilstein do them as does Koni.