dirtydoogle

After a body loom for a sedan, car is a 94 325 race car. 

Coupe loom could work as don't need rear window looms 

Poor old girl has suffered some water ingestion in the wiring 

Gave my e53 some love and polish 

I have an m44 header I could sell.

Have an m44 motor with a rebuilt head (all tested, decked and seats cut) 

M40 lifter tick is one of two things usually, 

First is the upper sump gasket perishing internally creating an air leak in the oil pick up, delivers aerated oil to your engine.

the second is a mixture of poor servicing and also poor materials, the oil spray bar on the head gunks up and you run the cam surfaces with less oil than needed, they then wear through the hardening and destroy the cam, rockers, rocker pads and lifters 

I have a full bmw history e36 316 that had worn the cam at 180km, cost me around 400 nzd to replace the cam/rockers/lifters 

Hit 400k in the work x5

510 won't be anywhere near enough sadly. 

Have a spare rattle gun rated to 750 and that sometimes has to think about removing them 

Buggered control arm bushings would be what I'd check 

Nice projects!

I use an 18v dewalt (1625nm) for this, does them piece of cake 

Personally have not seen anything quite as impressive as Autoglym ultra HD wax. Stunning product, tested and proven to be an incredible gloss and it's super nice to work with. 

The extremely expensive waxes are amazing, but unless you're a professional detailer with a huge amount of experience you won't have a surface prepared well enough to justify putting it on, IMHO 

Towed my Morris home from a mate's house. Manual x5 is such an excellent tow wagon

Picked up a set of r888r for the race car this morning 

The cam timing is set differently to different markets from what I can tell. Mostly a compromise with noise/vibration vs throttle response 

However eliminate everything else is always a good idea 

Super common to have cam timing doing this, the gears are adjustable and fairly easy to fix 

I have a timing tool cut for these for this reason 

On 3/28/2018 at 10:10 AM, Mikan said:

Thanks mate, yup, oil checked and changed for a thicker weight. Have replaced oil pressure switch, but not level sensor - do you think that would impact pressure? 

Have had a gauge on the engine, and blocking vanos off did show an increase in pressure, so we hoped that refreshing the (petrified) seals would get it over the line. 

Jon at Auto 38 who has been slowly working through the list of remedies from cheap to ruinous for me said he saw enough metal in the (three month) old oil to suggest that the true cause was main bearing wear. 

Does it only do it hot? 

I certainly see the appeal, but I don't think $25k is appropriate without being 100% original and totally immaculate 

Very fine example though. I wish I got in to the e30 game instead of buying a million e36s 

Put some suspension in my racecar thing 

I could do,  but at the price I got and it being a cash job I just doubt there is any come back on it really. Plus it was a while ago that they repaired it, I just work too much to get anything done on this car. 

I haven't had time to do the other checks yet. Does strike me as odd, being a brand new unit, faulty, then repaired only to fail in a different way than it did prior to repair 

I know a lot of people who have used them for repairs on other cars and never heard a bad word 

34 minutes ago, HaNs said:

Send it to me. I can get most things solved unless someone else has screwed it..

Cheers mate, will check the harness side and pin tension on the plug. If I have no luck will send you through a message 

54 minutes ago, hotwire said:

As i said further up the thread - Power Stop in Tauranga can properly test the module.

It was sent to them and repaired by them. 

I'll be needing  baffle for my e36 m50 motor soon, I'll be pulling it out of the original car soon and putting it in the "new" car so might as well take care o that when I'm there

Anyone have something floating around? I not I'll make one up 

So I had the new unit sent away and repaired. It worked for approx 20 minutes and then stopped communication with INPA and the other modules in the car

I was getting speed sensor readings just before it failed. 

So I am considering lighting it on fire. 

The repair wash a cash job, so no real come back there

it's 91 degrees at the sensor on the bottom hose, 108 is about right on your ktemp

I'd avoid it unless you're keen on a trans rebuild. 

They will run those miles with minimal maintenance, just oil and cooling stem stuff. Buthe it would be due for its third complete set of bushes etc 

I'm not worried about kms on vehicles, most of mine are what people consider high, buy on condition. 

My old man has a Corolla with over 800km on it with minimal maintenance and never had a mechanical failure. 

I like. But it'd most likely be very worn out unless it's had proper money spent underneath 

On 15/01/2018 at 9:30 AM, Jacko said:

 

 

Question - Anyone running a Valeo SMF conversion kit? Thoughts?

 

 

 

 

Have run one on an m52 and I rate them. 

22 hours ago, deviant said:

When purchasing a timing chain with master link is does that come with the link and cir-clips to connect the chain?

It might seem like a weird question but I can't actually find pictures or confirm if all is included without needing a special tool to press the chain etc.

All the kits I use have them