gjm

You should never work under a vehicle while it is only supported by a hydraulic jack. (Carefully written to avoid ambiguity or any reference to wring-doing that I may, or may not, have been guilty of at some point.) I have some offcuts of 2" timber that I create ramps from and drive up on to so that the car is high enough to get under and access the drain plug, but not so high that the oil can be affected by a prevailing breeze and blown clear of the pan I use to catch stuff...

Had a very sad day. The wonderful blue E46 318i has failed to proceed in an orderly and quiet manner. Diagnosis - run a main bearing. It was always a 'cheap' car and was bought for Miss M to use. After she bought her 116i, Mrs M and I used the 318i for running around and about, and back and forth to Hamilton. While a beautiful colour blue it was never in great visual condition, having been the subject of touch parking before coming to us. It was bought from Andy @_ethrty-Andy_ some years ago and has invariably been quite brilliant. Comfortable to drive, very economical, and (until very recently) supremely reliable. Normal maintenance applies of course. Regular engine oil and filter changes, checks and so on. Just passed a WoF (2 new tyres, new ARB links), had a new battery a few months ago, and has 3/4 tank of fuel which we'll transfer to another car. Recovery from Te Pohue cost far more than it's (now) worth. Economics mean it's just not realistic to pursue a repair, so it'll move on to someone who will find a use for many parts. I feel quite emotional. 😭

VINK Motorsport, Goodwood FOS 2022

I s'pose most people will only ever see the back?

And now you know why I posted a rear 3/4 shot...

This. (Almost?) every manufacturer has dire stories told about them. Early W210 Mercedes had major paint and corrosion protection issues - cars at 4 years old were seeing structural failure of suspension components. (I cite MB as while I do like them, I am well aware of issues!) The BMW N4x engine issues are well-known. (Although I know an E46 320 owner whose car has covered 320000km with very little more than regular servicing.) There was a website for the VW Toerag (spelling is correct!) Toyota recalled 2.4m hybrid vehicles. Nissan CVTs failed. Subaru recalled 400000 vehicles in the US for engine issues. If you listen or look, you'll find damning indictments of anything and everything.

It is based on the Z4...

The internet wins!

Pretty good going regardless. Add 10% capacity, gain over 20% power. And more revs.

Took advantage (as many have) of a TradeMe freebie day and listed the Baur (and the 500SL). Over 1000 views between the two in under 12 hours. Not one question, comment...

Thanks Dave. Still a bit of a PITA job with no room to swing a ratchet - constantly fouling on one or another bit of car - and necessitated use of a very slim 18mm spanner I fortunately have. Jacked up car, removed wheel, positioned axle sand under hub flange, gently lowered car on to axle stand sufficient to unload the link, struggle with the nuts but once released, came apart very easily. All done. Just need to polish the headlights and go get a WoF retest.

The E60 M5 is known for its high-revving 500hp V10 engine but not everyone knows where else it was used: 2005–2010 E60/E61 M5 2005–2010 E63/E64 M6 2009–2010 Wiesmann GT MF5 2011 Wiesmann Roadster MF5 V10 daHLer Schwaben Folia Black Bat, upgraded to 600hp 2005–2007 Fisker Latigo CS V10: 1 prototype and one production car, upgraded to 650 hp 2009–2013 Vermot Veritas RS III: 30 cars built, upgraded to 600hp Aside from these uses, the BMW M team decided they'd get involved too, and built the E60 M5 CSL. The colour scheme was chosen to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the M5, and it was the first M5 to have a carbon fiber roof. The 5.0-liter naturally aspirated V10 was tuned to produce 630 PS (621 horsepower) at 8,750 rpm and the M5 CSL was the first BMW to use the Getrag seven-speed DCT which was later used in the E92 M3 and other M cars.

E46 ant-roll bar links. Swaybar links... Working with the front wheels driven on to a raised platform so the car is sitting on the wheels, not jacked clear of the ground. I'm told this is the correct way to do this. Replacing the links. Never found something so easy to see but so tricky to sensibly get tools to! Bottom nut off. I was told to use 15mm and 16mm spanners/sockets - needed an 18mm on the ball side of the lower mount, and 16mm on the nut. Now the fun starts. How do I get to the top nut? It sits inboard of the tyre so is inaccessible from the outside, going between the tyre and the wheelarch. And lying on the ground, I can't reach with both hands to get a spanner on either side of the mount on the shock. Is the answer to get the wheel off and work from there? It certainly seems it'd be a lot easier!

Theoretically, none. The EMS should sense and detune accordingly.

Never mind the nudity! BT52? Here's one feeling angry. ❤️