Terroth

How much did your rust panel and paint cost? Got a similar sized piece in the exact same spot but on the other side, gotten to the point that it was leaking into the boot.

Hmm not really after them all but out of curiosity, at what price?

Hey would you split the front springs from the shocks?

Any proper ways of inspecting? They are only 3 - 4 years old at most, and visual inspection they appear fine, shocks seem to compress / rebound fine.

TLDR: What springs are stiffer than King / Have less suspension travel? So currently i'm running Koni Yellows and King Spring Lows all round, same as the E30 race series guys as it was the intention of the previous owner. Not mine though, i live 1500KM too far away for that. My problem is the car squats like absolute crazy in the rear, the height is fine, could be tad bit lower but its nice for daily driving. The issue i have is that as soon as you load the suspension up, whether it be some hefty acceleration, going up a a steep street or driveway, or letting the fat boys sit in the back, it sags on its absolute ass, bit of a laugh really. I've attached photos of the daily grind out the driveway with no one in the car, first photo is in the garage, relatively flat surface, second is how much it squats in the rear pulling out the driveway (It gets this bad under heavy acceleration too). I haven't quite got any other photos to reference to in terms of other suspension setups, but I'm positive that this amount of squat is excessive for a lowered spring, stock maybe. My issue, as you can probably tell from the photos is that it rubs when under that much load, not on the fender lip, but the actual fender skin inside. (In before get some proper fitting wheels and tyres). So, to my question. Does anyone have recommendations to stiffer setups other than Kings? I've read that if it weren't for Jamex claiming the title they'd be one of the poorer / shittier choice? I'm aware of some of the other options such as H/R, Vogtland, and Dobi but would like some second opinions on what other people are running in their E30? Cheers

Rebuilt my drivers door lock, finicky little thing but not that difficult to do at all

Bedding in OEM / OEM+ brake pads, really necessary or nah? Been failed on soft brakes and unequal rear braking (100 / 140, 26% difference). Replacing pads all round, cleaned up the guide pins, caliper pistons didn't seem stuck and pushed back in fine, also rebleeding the system. Anymore suggestions for making sure i dont fail the recheck on brakes?

It doesn't exactly fit nicely. I have one, although not installed, and on the facelift rear window atleast it doesn't sit flush and isn't quite long enough leaving about a 1-2cm gap either side, which you can fill in with black sealant i suppose, but if you dont and stand by the passenger doors you can see through the gap between the spoiler / rear glass. I haven't really had a good crack at installing it though, maybe another day. Found mine in pick-a-part for 30 bucks btw, so don't buy into those folks selling them for 100+ on bmw parts pages, also tried wreckers on trademe and got told 40 bucks but didn't want to deal with shipping, so they are out there.

I believe if you are part of Euro Nation New Zealand on facebook they get a 10 - 20% discount at FM7 Window Tinting in CHCH, might be worth having a look. Few classes available but not quite sure haven't done it myself. Not sure how it works, maybe just mention the group or something.

One issue to the next for me. I have a video of a particularly loud and strange noise coming directly from the oil pan / bottom of the block on my M20B25, but it is loudest around the Oil Pan when under the car. It occurs after 1.5k RPM specifically, and am unsure for how much further up the RPM Range. I've got the car booked into Eurorec next week for a checkup on some particularly annoying sounds including this one, but I'd like to go into this with some more information as to what the f**k is going on. You'll hear it kick in at 0.4 Seconds into the video and drop out at 13 when closing the throttle. Fresh oil change using 5W-40 Penrite just 3 days ago. https://vid.me/tmxd Cheers for any help.

Are you able to jack the car up and then trace it back up? Could be the back of the valve cover leaking or oil sump as it goes all the way back to the transmission. Maybe compare it in color to your engine oil and gearbox oil? Gearbox should be reddish, but depending on age could be a darker brown, the filler plug is on the side and depending on the gearbox should be a 17mm male hex socket, stick a finger in there and compare the colors. Both the seals on the transmission are in the rear so if it was the transmission it would be by the driveshaft or the side / mid section were the filler and drain plugs are.

The car has no AC so that means the only possible bearings would be alternator or power steering correct? I just put the engine in the car, a B20 to B25 swap so all the belts are brand new from Pelican, but reused my same alternator / power steering pump from the old engine which hasn't run for about 6 months. Water pump is brand new too.

Crank pulley bolt is still there, think it'd take quite an effort to break that. I'll have to warm the engine up till the noise appears again and then see if i can quickly snap off the belts to check.

Seem to be going one issue to the next here... After some driving and warming the engine up (Questionable as the temp sensor doesn't seem to want to go much further past blue) I've noticed what seems to be a grinding or scraping sound around 3000-4000 and beyond RPM, its occuring within the engine bay, particularly the front section around the Fan or Belts. No loss of power or anything. It has nothing to do with speed, as when i stopped and gave it REV's it continued to appear. As part of service for this engine i did replace Alternator belt, Power Steering belt, timing belt and its tensioner, waterpump etc. Not entirely sure on whats causing it, perhaps one of the pulleys is giving out? I've read it may be some bearings that have gotten dirt in them or are on their way out, but I;ve little knowledge regarding any bearings so if someone could explain that it would be great. Perhaps the waterpump isn't getting lubricated enough as I am currently only running it on water, no coolant due to plans on flushing it this weekend. As far as i know, it doesn't seem too serious, and if it were occuring within the engine I'm sure it would be causing driving / power issues, which it is not.

I think if the booster fails it means a lot more leg muscle work, so the pedal would be firm, IE when you switch the car off and press the brakes a few times they firm up because the booster is no longer there to aid it. There may be the chance that i pressed the brakes when moving in and out the car during the swap and over pressurised the system, but I too don't know the braking system that well as i've never previously had issues. I'll start with the simple solutions and have to move my way up perhaps. Thanks for the help though Andy. If anyone else has more information and can chime in that would be greatly appreciated .