Dom.

Hey guys Does anyone want either of these parts? Both came off at around 45,000km and were only replaced due to upgrading. Else I will just chuck them on Trademe. Have to include a price, so $50 each ono. Intercooler will be wiped down but can come with the flies at extra cost. Chargepipe does not come with the C clip as that has been installed on my new one. Don't hesitate to chuck out an offer if you need something, I'm not too fussed. I will also be selling my E90 Aluminium trim in the next week or two so if anyone is interested in that let me know. I'm based in central Auckland. Cheers Dom

I have my OEM N54 chargepipe from when I took it out. Around 40,000kms on it. No idea if it would fit but let me know if you want it

FCPEuro ships quickly and provides lifetime warranty for the duration of your ownership - meaning that when they wear out you can have them replaced. I have been using Akebono pads for about 6 months and love them. They're also a well known brand. From my research online prior to buying them they provide performance on par with OEM with significantly reduced brake dust. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-disc-brake-pad-set-rear-330i-335i-335xi-330xi-335d-akebono-euro-eur1170 I'd also order these: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-pad-sensor-rear-uro-34356789445 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-pad-paste-83122296187 Edit: I've also heard good things about the Stop Tech pads mentioned above

- Stage 3 shifts are approx. 25% faster (according to their website) - Paddle response is faster (my 07 335i shifts almost as fast as my brother's F10 M5 DCT), HUGE improvement over stock - The torque limit before the TCU forces an upshift is raised in each gear - In M mode the car will never upshift on its own even when approaching/hitting redline. This could either be a good thing or a bad thing depending on the driver. I like it as in first gear with MHD the optimal shift point (if trying to go fast) is in the high 6k range while redline is at 7k. - Automatic rev-matches on downshifts in S and M mode, sounds great and feels smoother when slowing down quickly That being said, in D mode the stage 3 tune is not aggressive in the slightest. Feels very smooth and is perfect for daily driving. If I were you I would just flash straight to stage 3, which also seems to be the consensus on other forums from my research.

Hadn't seen that site, thanks for that. They are 12 years old. Any suggestion of what ones I should look into without breaking the bank? Is there any point in keeping the current Monroe shocks (1 year old) and just changing the springs, or is that unlikely to help ride quality?

Answering my own question in case it helps anyone else: Continental says that every model has different springs, so ideally you would use springs from a car of the same model & spec.

Hey guys, I'm looking at putting OEM M Sport suspension back on my 335i. When I bought it the previous owner had put on Monroe shocks and Dobi springs, but the car sits too low for me. The previous owner included the 4 original M Sport shocks (I plan on getting them tested) with the car and they only have around 40,000kms on them. I've found some used Sport springs but I don't think they're off a 335. So my question is whether there is any issue with putting MSport springs from an E90 which isn't a 335 on the car? Are they identical from factory or should I keep looking for some off a 335? Thanks

I got mine from FCPEuro in the states. Super fast shipping with reasonable rates (them sending to me directly was cheaper than using NZPost Youshop). Parts arrived in 3 days. If you're doing the work yourself I strongly recommend that you get the magnetic spark plug socket from BMS. I did it with one I got off FCP Euro with my plugs and regret it - the rubber ring that the cheaper ones use to grip the plug is far too snug and the socket ends up stuck to the plug, meaning you can't pull it off via the extension. Ended up having to carefully pull the socket off each plug with a pair of really long pliers. I've just ordered the magnetic one myself (for the next time I need it) - having it sent to Youshop to forward to me as their rates are ridiculous. Every part (including wear items like plugs and coils) from them also comes with a lifetime warranty. @Tij I got a quote for a walnut blast too, but given my car is fairly low mileage they suggested that I just wait until I have 60-70,000km on it beforehand. If you're above that, from everything I've read on other forums it sounds like it would definitely be worthwhile. I'll let you know how I get on ?

Hey Trent, Sorry, completely forgot about this thread. Cable is working fine and came in 1-2 days. Car is reading it perfectly. This is the one I bought: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/listing-2045036176.htm?rsqid=41da1ce40a654712b95fb04e31027e7a-002 I intend on flashing MHD and xHP but haven't gotten around to it yet. Thought I'd better play it safe and have swapped in new spark plugs and coils in the meantime, as well as a new battery. At this stage once I install my chargepipe tomorrow I'll be ready to flash MHD stage 1 - just need to find a battery charger first ?

Sent you a PM

Hey everyone, I'm looking to buy 18" APEX ARC-8 Wheels, but I'm definitely open to other options. Thought I'd see what is out there before buying brand new. If you have something suitable please let me know. Cheers Dom

Thanks again for the chat @B.M.W Ltd. My interest in cars is fairly recent and I'm still learning, so I really do appreciate people like you going out of your way to give me advice. @M3AN Thanks again for the offer. After giving it some more thought for now I'm going to hold off on flashing the car until I've done a bit more research and sorted any potential issues with the battery or other components.

Hey! Thank you for the offer and sorry for the late reply. I was intending to use the charger to fully charge my car battery before flashing (although it might be best to replace my battery altogether - the low battery light comes on within a couple of minutes of turning on the ignition if the engine is not running... if anyone has advice on how I can tell if the battery needs replacement I would appreciate it!), and then to maintain it while I flash my ECU and TCU. I picked 10A from my research on other forums, but what Glenn has said appears to be correct from looking at the xHP manual: "We also recommend a proper voltage supply during the install. (“Long-Flash”) The car can draw up to 30 Amps during the flash, so we recommend a supply able to deliver at least 30 Amp@13,8V. (e.g. Maas SPS-30) The voltage supply needs to be connected in the engine bay. DO NOT connect directly at the vehicles battery. A normal battery tender or charger does not help to stabilize the voltage during the process. It can only help to pre-charge the battery in advance. • The very first flash on your vehicle will “Install” xHP on your car. This procedure takes approx. 30 min. We HIGHLY RECOMMEND using a vehicle charger for the first flash. After installing, the following flashes will take no more than approx. 5 minutes. These flashes can be carried out without a charger, but you do not want to see voltage levels below 12V when starting a flash. xHP will display your battery voltage in the car information section. It is NOT possible to flash the TCU while the engine is running." Meanwhile MHD recommends anything above a 12A charger but is not very specific.

Does anyone happen to have a battery charger (10A or higher) that I could hire to use when I do the XHP and MHD flashes? Located in AKL. Cheers

Appreciate the help - have ordered one and will update with a link to it if it works