Cammsport

So I finally settled on a.... 4M41. What's that? The 3.2 TD from a Gen 4 2010 Pajero. 

Absolutely love it. Definitely not as smooth or refined as an E70. Aaand the 30d has more torque and Hp for less fuel. But the Pajero doesn't leak and parts are quickly acquired through Amayama, which has a warehouse in Christchurch. I fell like I can beat on the Pajero abit more too. 

7 seats, TV for the middle row, auto headlights/wipers & rear view, leather heated electric seats, headlight washers, PDC, cruise control. Oh, it also has a spare wheel! 🤯

Feel free to flick me a message. Pristine body and interior. 

Hi all, has anyone had the recall information sent to them yet? Seems as though it could be on the way. 

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/bmw-22v-119-recall-n52-engine-fire-hazard

I shortened the pull-rod from the pedal to the booster and admittedly the brakes are night and day better. Less travel to engage the brakes. Pedal distance can't be adjusted due to the position of the brake light micro switch (unless you modified the steel assembly). 

After a closer inspection, the clamp onto the shaft on the steering rack was loose! This is hopefully the play they mentioned. I'm bloody glad he found it, although it wouldn't have come apart due to the recess on the shaft for the bolt to go through. New 8.8 bolt and STEEL self-locking nut installed. The nylon must not have appreciated the heat from the manifold. 

My cert plate is under the trunk carpet as I didn't want it in an obvious location like engine bay or door jam. 

On 3/8/2023 at 2:12 PM, promo said:

I can do for you...

@promo, I can't message you for some reason. It says you can't receive messages. 

I knew the wiper blades were done, but I thought I'd fly through. Game plan is to lengthen the adjustment rod for the brake booster and then tighten the adjustment nut on the bottom of the Z3 rack. I don't want to tighten the nut alot as I don't think there is any issue at all. No play in UJs. Rack ends are new and tight. 

I'm also judging the inspector for his handwriting and wording 😅

The anarchist in me likes to find broken stuff. Glad it "softly" died, as opposed to a catastrophic chain failure. Wouldn't have been far off. 

However, the rod bearings and Crank appear to be in great shape. I'll chalk that up to the solid service history and regular oil changes. 

Get them to Central Otago and I'll buy them 😅 awesome seats. Good luck with the sale. 

A sad sight to see... 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3405730356412146/?mibextid=dXMIcH

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/castrol-castrol-edge-engine-oil---5w-30-a3-b4-5-litre/299206.html

50% off castrol edge 5w30 at SCA

On 6/11/2022 at 5:09 PM, Allanw said:

Does that cranking video sound VERY wrong to anybody else???

It doesn't sound like the compression is correct/evenly spaced.

Compression test and check the cam timing??

 

Chocolate biscuit to you Sir (and everyone else that mentioned compression). Cylinders 4 and 3 are ~300psi. Cylinder #2 is 270psi and #1 is 50psi! Acetone soak with ATF didn't help at all. Oddly enough with each cylinder at TDC, there's very minimal leaks that I could hear.

I'm determined to get this going before my 1 year anniversary of ownership. Considered a donor engine but I think I'll do it properly and give this engine a birthday. New timing chains, sprockets and tensioners. Water pump and thermostat. Piston rings (bores look fine, so I don't thing I need to do anything too drastic there). Head gasket and head bolts. Trans filter. Let me know if there's anything else I should tackle. Won't know the condition of the bearings until I have it out.

Not super rare and came on a lot of Msport E46's. I would have thought $200 if its all in good nick but happy to be proven wrong! Hopefully someone pulls the trigger on your auction 🤞

Cheers @Ooonst, where'd you mount the camera and did you route the cable/s through the a-pillar? 

My jerk was 1st to 2nd, flat shift type. A new filter and fluids didn't make it any better. I just used the snow flake mode to hold it out of 1st gear.

Threw the borescope down the injector holes to see what kind of engine I had. All in all, not too bad. Cross hatchings still present and no scoring that I could see. But a heck of a lot of carbon build up on the pistons. See below. Vertical lines on #4 are from fuel seeping down the cylinders when injectors were removed.

And from a top down view, there's an obvious fault on #1 cylinder. The piston is offset to one side which I assume is from the rings.

A lot different to #3 if you were to compare.

A view of the top end shows how bad the carbon build up is.

And a video of #3 so you can see the general condition.

At this point I think I'm wasting my time soaking the cylinders, hoping the rings will free up. I think the engine needs to come out, pistons removed, carbon removed and rings replaced. Will give me the opportunity to replace the timing gear too for piece of mind. If anyone has any tips or pointers, fire away! If the head is carefully removed (all head bolts loosened incrementally), do i still need to have the head skimmed? Was hoping to avoid the extra cost.

Mustered up some motivation to get back to the lemon. Found some more lemony goodness. 

Loom, glow plugs, turbo, radiator, intercooler and belly pans removed. Turbo found to have some lateral play on the shaft, so that'll be getting rebuilt/replaced (anyone have any experience with the DIY rebuild kits?). Looks like I caught it early enough and there's no shrapnel anywhere. 

When removing the belly tray, I found the little brass olive that goes in the fuel lines to the injector. Can't find the 2nd one. Royaly p*sses me off that the garage has had such sloppy workmanship. None of the fuel lines blanked. Injector left uncovered. Would be keen to send a sulky email as opposed to bad feedback on Google, but I doubt it'd achieve much. 

Plan from here is to remove the intake manifold and use my new leakdown tester to pinpoint where the air is escaping from. I'll also loan the borescope from work to see if there's any damage to cylinder bores before going any further. 

Awesome video, I should've googled it earlier. 

$28,100 for that white X5. Not bad buying to be fair, for whoever won it. I hope the new owner cares for it well, especially if this is the tidiest X5 out there. 

I also wonder what it was worth brand new 10 years ago? Would it be $100k in depreciation? 

On 12/10/2022 at 12:17 PM, Driftit said:

 

Maybe we should keep posting any half decent relevant oil prices here. 

Good Idea I reckon 

24 minutes ago, balancerider said:

Looks pretty tidy. The fact it's still on OEM Bridgestone runflats (at $600+ a corner) suggests they probably haven't cut too many corners on maintenance

He has spent a heck load on maintenance. EGR cooler failed, rear door actuator and stuts failed, rear air bag struts leaking, various suspension components replaced (expected). Couple grand each visit. 

39 minutes ago, Palazzo said:

Here’s your car.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/x5/listing/3890381992

It's on the watchlist! Ticks all my boxes.

I totally agree re power. And the n57 could be a lot better than the N47?

Hi all, about this time last year we were looking at diesel E70's. I never got around to pulling the trigger on one and we moved to the South Island. Now that we've found ourselves being in a more "outdoorsie" situation, we're back on the hunt for a 7 seater 4WD. 

I was keen on a E70 30D/40D. But since last year we have bought a e87 120D N47, and it has been an absolute lemon! (have a look here if you like sight-unseen lemons) Since then I have realised that diesels are pretty expensive to service with things like injectors, HP fuel pumps and timing chains (on the power delivery side of the engine) if you're unlucky. Not to mention the carbon build up if it hasn't been cared for correctly due to the emissions critical componentry. Also, my main parts suppliers like FCP aren't euro diesel friendly. Also, diesel isn't far off premium petrol prices down here. Not to mention diesel kms on top.

I understand that the 35i's aren't as torquey or efficient, but are there any other cons to the N55? The forums seem to suggest they're ok and single turbo vs the N54 seems like there's less to go wrong?

Tell me what you reckon. 

P.s my ideal checklist, if you happen to know of something on the market is...

• Alpinweiss (for sun baking avoidance). 7 seats. Leather (heated). Adaptive cruise. Facelift. NZ new. Some form of servicing history. Less than 160,000kms and $20k. I don't ask for much, right?

More post-script.. I love this forum. Cheers everyone.

Does it make you feel better that its an Aussie company too? Dogs.

E30 coupe M52B28

0.175 hp/kg

0.1304 kW/kg

😅

@Bronsk that's a bugger. Some satisfaction I guess in that you found a fault?

Yea I'll pull the motor out regardless and change the timing gear for peace of mind. 

I'm also going to borrow the borescope from work to see if there's any damage to bores etc.