NZ00Z3

Check out this link. It may have what you are after. http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

For normal operation, could it be that the GM5 thinks that there is still a door/boot etc open and will not lock until that item is signaling that it is closed?

If you want to get a scanner so you can scan it yourself, you'll need one with BMW software.

In the Z3 community, it is normal to fit standard Z3 shocks to the Z3 sport suspension. The difference in ride height is only 15mm.

It mounts under the seat. One each side. Remove the seat, separate the carpet at the split and find it mounted to the floor. They usually die due to water leaks, so if the foam under the carpet is wet, then you can expect the new one to die over time.

You were lucky with the spare throttle body in the boot. They are expensive to buy. The attached PDF gives you the rear ride heights. You are correct with the F0 airbag module internal fault, call Pramod to see if he can reset the module. Hope the repairs go smoothly and your daughter likes the car. BMW Z3 rear ride heght measurements.pdf

Have you checked the operation of your electric radiator fan. It should start for a second or 2 every time you start the engine. The DME records the success of the start and uses it as a pre-condition to starting the A/C compressor. If the fan is faulty, then no A/C.

For the No DME communications problem The E46, 323 still has the 20 pin Pacman diagnostic port under the bonnet. The lid has to be on that port for the OBD2 port in the cabin to work. OBD2 port is only for the DME and EGS. The rest of the modules get accessed via the Pacman port. You need pins 7 and 8 joined in the OBD2 end of the K-Dcan lead to read all the other modules. For the no rev problem: Clean the Idle control valve. It controls the first 12% of throttle opening. With the engine running, floor the accelerator. It no rev's then the DME is holding the engine at idle due to a fault somewhere. Either Throttle body or ASC\DSC throttle control Check that you don't have an ABS light up. I've had one case on a E46 328 where the ABS module had failed and was changed but not coded. The engine would start and idle but not rev. Coded the ABS module and all was good again.

An interesting read: https://www.autocar.co.nz/nzs-classic-car-sector-is-worth-11-billion-new-survey-suggests/ And it only covers people who belong to car clubs that are members of the Federation of motor clubs, so, it's only a sample of the whole car enthusiast market.

It will help to know the model of the car. Is it a E46?

The Z3 has a weak ass end. The amount of power you are talking about will eventually break the rear sub frame out and drop the diff on the ground. Read up about the Randy Forbes sub frame fix. It's a kit of metal parts that gets welded into the subframe and stops the problem. There are both cast iron and aluminium block M52's. The cast iron will be better for boost and it can withstand more PSI. Not sure how common the cast iron block is in N.Z. Have seen people import them from the USA. The M52 family can get a little confusing: - M52B28 = 2.8L single VANOS engine - M52TUB28 = technical upgrades 2.8L dual VANOS engine. Basically a M54

You are getting some great advice from @Eagle. Better to buy a cheap 2.0L 6 cylinder (M52TU20) powered Z3 and swap in a 2.8L (M52TU28). Bolt for bolt swap and an easy DME (ECU) update for the larger engine. Just a Diff ratio change may be needed. Feel free to send me a PM to swap phone numbers and we can chat. I've down to 2 Z3's and have done lots of work on them.

Only seen one Z4 coupe manual over the last few years. Trademe auction with $29k start price. Don't know what the reserve was.

I've seen 2 or 3 manual Z4's over the last couple of years on TradeMe. There is one on there now: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/z4/search?transmission=1&auto_category_jump=false

The set is for one seat, $30 plus postage (if any) Send me a PM for contact details