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Statek

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Everything posted by Statek

  1. It's not always as simple as reading a code and replacing the faulty part. Most of the time codes don't pinpoint the faulty item, all they say is that, for example, the O2 sensor is returning incorrect values. This could be a faulty O2 sensor, catalytic converter, leak in the exhaust, faulty ECU.. list goes on. Best of luck getting it sorted Treone, hope it doesn't end up costing an arm and a leg!
  2. Chucked everything together under the bonnet (including the unnecessary plastic bits - they'll come off later again), just enough of the interior to go for a test drive, and completed the first run around the block. Slight idle hunting to sort out - but drives well and is really, really peppy in comparison with the auto. Could also have something to do with the 4.44 diff Top speed in 2nd is 60kmh! Perfect for gravel.
  3. Statek

    E36 clutch

    Hey Malcolm. Got any info on the solid conversion kit you bought? I may be interested if it suits..
  4. Got some time in the garage in the last week, as well as this weekend, so managed to place the engine and gearbox back in the car, assembled as much as I needed for the crucial first start. Manual shifter looks right at home Spent most of today figuring out why it's not cranking. I had initially planned to keep the auto ECU in place for the first start to ensure engine runs, and then swap to the manual ECU, replace the EWS box, ignition barrel and locks. Unfortunately, it was a no go. I couldn't be bothered bypassing the auto park/neutral switch, so just went ahead and switched over to the manual ECU, plugged in the ignition chip receiver with key, and then realised that the donor car had EWS II while the compact has EWS 3D. A little googling later, found a wiring diagram and switched all the EWS wires over to the right terminals in the plug, spliced some together, slightly cut the plug to fit and cranked again. This time - success! Sort of. Car was cranking but not starting. I could smell fuel so I pulled a plug wire and checked for spark - got spark. Ran over the basics in my head, checked all the plugs on the engine, and had a eureka moment when I thought that maybe my supply/return fuel hoses are backwards. Switched them over (got a nice splash of fuel in my mouth, mmmm...) and voila! Car runs, sounds very nice without the exhaust lol. Neighbours might not appreciate, so I didn't keep it running for too long. Can't stop grinning, the worst is over. All that's left is to actually put the car back together, replace the leaking clutch slave (couldn't get one on Saturday) and I may be able to take it for a drive before next weekend! Then I can finally start thinking about the fun stuff...
  5. Hey guys, I've been scouring lots of beemer forums, and found a tiny bit of info and would like someone to confirm (or educate me). I'm building a budget gravel basher, and want to stiffen up the front (my suspension has 260ks and is a touch soft). I don't want to upgrade to coilovers (yet), and i've read that a good way to upgrade the front is to use E36 M3 front shocks with lowering springs (as my compact is 4cyl, therefore lighter in the front). The lowering springs will keep the compact at stock height, and the front will be nice and stiff. There's a set of M3 front shocks, offset mounts, sway bar and links which just popped up on Trademe (http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/suspension/auction-1316004846.htm), so I'm wondering if anyone knows something about this? Is there a different way of achieving this? My compact is of the m-sport variety, so maybe some new inserts will sort it out? Cheers, Kris
  6. Statek

    E36 M3

    Yeah, that's @pommy's old car.
  7. Managed to get a few hours in the garage on ANZAC Day. Got the engine out and started tidying up engine bay - clean oil/dust/leaves, remove sound deadening (but leave heat shields). I'm not bothering de-looming at this stage. Oh man, is the auto trans heavy compared to the manual gearbox! Pleasant surprise from BMW: no firewall drilling required for the clutch master cylinder and supply hose. 2 is definitely better than 1, right? Managed to mount the pedals before I got called out of the garage for the day. Lots more to do...
  8. On Easter Friday, I made the decision to get the manual conversion done during the long weekend, so the car went into the garage. ...and it's still there 2 weeks later. Family time and life in general got in the way as usual, and just haven't had the time to get it done. I've been tinkering a bit in the evenings, so the engine and transmission is ready to come out (everything is disconnected, just need to lift the thing out). I absolutely love how the whole front basically unbolts. This was a pleasant surprise when I started working on these cars. I might actually get around to pulling it out tonight. List of things to do before the 'new' motor and gearbox go in: - Find the water leak! - Manual pedal box and clutch line install - Remove A/C That's probably about it for now.
  9. First item on the list is to make the thing manual. I bought a crashed '96 318is from Turners with a relatively low mileage motor. In the LTSA system it was listed as a 1.8 and being a NZ new car I thought it had the early motor. A little research later on though has proven that it's a M44B19 - not really a problem as I'm out to have a bit of fun right now, and not win any class honours. Later I'll think whether to downsize to 1.8 or go for a 6 cylinder... Donor car: Removed the engine, gearbox, all locks and electronics needed to convert the compact, and sold (or still selling) as much as I can to recover some funds. Refreshed the lower mileage motor and the gearbox with some new oil seals while they're out. At the same time started stripping the compact out. I'm still using the compact, as the Mrs needs the daily once a week, so keeping it driveable is important for now. I took the carpets out, and replaced the half-leather seats with cloth seats out of the coupe for now (seems I slide around a little less in them). Kind of lucky I took the carpet out when I did, as a few days later we had the heavy rains and found my car turned into a fish tank on the driver's side: I tried sitting inside while the wife hosed the exterior but as expected nothing came through. I'll have to have a good look when I remove the engine if there's any damaged seals in the engine bay anywhere. Anyone have ideas of common places where it could be entering?
  10. I'm attempting to build a E36 compact into a budget gravel rally car. I had an AW11 Mr2 'sort-of' track-car previously, but it was hardly used due to track day costs and I thought it was time to move on to something a bit different. I've never rallied before, I've always wanted to, I just didn't think i have the balls to. Time to find out! The plan is to start by doing grasskhanas and autocrosses, and once I get a cage in start doing gravel sprints. Car will mostly be stock (at the start at least) to get the hang of things and grow confidence in a slow car. Picked up an automatic 1999 318Ti for under $1k, and all it needed for a WoF was some tyres, a few bulbs, and to clear the ABS light. About a week after I got it, it was already time to try it out on grass, by doing the HCMC grasskhana in Massey. The ABS light came back on just before the event (looks like pump motor/electronics), so conveniently the ASC and ABS were disabled during the event. Even though it was still auto with a single spinner, I had a blast throwing it around the dirt. Looks like the project is a go.
  11. Statek

    Project 85 E30

    Street legal track car, Chris!
  12. Hi guys Stripping 2 cars - going cheap, most bits probably priced between $20-50 '97 E36 318is coupe NZ New with frontal damage. No running gear. Good stuff includes: Rear lights, bootlid, rear bumper (pending sale), doors. Interior roof lining, steering wheel ($100), rear seats, interior boot trim. Probably other good bits there too, just ask what you need. '99 E36 318Ti Interior - front half-leather seats (a bit worn, drivers has a rip and a repair already), rear seats, roof lining, rear trims, parcel shelf, boot carpets etc. Some other parts too, let me know what you need. Located West Auckland.
  13. Hi guys I've been skulking on the forums for a while, gathering intel, but haven't posted. I've been wanting to get into gravel rallying for a little while, and since you can buy E36s on a tight budget, it seemed like a good idea. They're popular in europe, so a ton of info is available. Spare parts are easy to come by (as it's sometimes cheaper to buy a broken E36 than it is to find individual parts). I bought an automatic '99 318Ti compact for under $1k, and after sorting small issues to get it a WoF, it's still driving. It's even seen a grass autocross and survived! I also have a frontal damaged 318is manual which is currently being stripped down for parts for the compact. I should probably start a build thread... Here's a pic for you: Cheers, Kris
  14. Hi guys Looking for a E36 Compact / 318ti project car. Doesn't have to have WOF but it does need a live rego (or on hold). Prefer something for under $1k. Located Auckland, but may travel for the right car. Cheers! Kris
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