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rxsumo

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Everything posted by rxsumo

  1. I assume that the car hasnt been de-registered. To get new plates, you go to a Land Transport agent....like AA or VTNZ, and apply for new plates, stating that the old ones were stolen. Theyshould issue the plates on the spot. The car shouldnt need to be registered to get the plates. Once you have the plates, you should be able to go do the WoF thing and get the rego done after. If they were personalised plates you will need to get your plates remade which takes a few days. If the car has been de-registered, than you will need to go through the VIN process.
  2. If the brakes are fairly average, another thing to check is the brake hoses. My old E34 535i, had shite brakes when used on the track,lots of pedal but no stopping power...couldnt even get the ABS engaging. Upgraded the pads, and fluids...still no better...eventually found the collapsed flexible hose on the diff. Problem with the ATE brake hoses, is that they can look absolutely fine, but can be completely shot and not passing fluid
  3. Have you compression checked the engine.... If you have a sooty plug, surely it means its getting too much fuel, or it's unable to fully burn the correct amount of fuel. Too much fuel, does it have a leaking injector, when you say that you had the injectors services...were they removed from the engine and cleaned, or "serviced" in place? Is the cold start injector leaking? or is the cold start circuits faulty - sensor ? If it cant burn the fuel properly - low compression, blown head gasket, cracked head, burnt valve, dead ignition lead, fault spark plug- compression check would be a starting point - at idle is itactually firing number 6 regularly...I have used a timing light and watch and see if it flashing regularly...compare with the other cylinders
  4. I'm just starting to plan the roadtrip, so if there is anybody else out there let me know, and we will try and include you in.
  5. I haven't taken any current photos, howeverhere is one with the carbies on (the carbies are long since sold) Shows the linkage stuff, and the elbows mounted on the carbies The carbies were 45s, which were really too big for running on my 3.0 engine, so I sold them with a view to getting a set of 40s for the 3.0....I'm now going to keep the engine stock, as I have the M535i, and the 3.0Si....which are fast enough with Fuel Injection
  6. I looking sell my M30 Triple Weber manifold(s) Tony Devos reckoned these were actual Alpina ones, but he also told me that the car that they were fitted to had a LSD (which it didnt), so I wouldn't say definitely they are anyhow..... What is included: 3 individual carbie to head inlet manifolds. Carbie to Air Cleaner elbows Fabricated Air Box for the elbows Some linkages - not that flash The air box was setup for using a 3.0Si air cleaner in its original position, with a flexible connection to the air box assembly. I'm guessing that as the manifolds are individual, you could also use two of them for a twin weber setup on a M10 Up for offers, I was thinking around $300
  7. On TradeMe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=352529993 These came with a bunch of E3/E12/E28 parts that I got off an old BMW dealer when I was tracking down trim parts for my E3. New still in the original BMW bags
  8. Ulli Thieme, who runs the www.e12.de website, is visiting NZ in March and is keen to have a look around, and catch up with as many owners as he can during his visit. He is also pretty keen to photograph and document your cars if he is able. He is keen to find out if there are any 518s out here. He has only got 3 days here between the 8th and 11th of March, and is only going to be in the North Island. Do you want to let me know if you are keen to meet Ulli, and I'll work on either a get together if there are enough people, or working out a route so that Ulli can get to you.
  9. Now on TradeMe http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-331787983.htm
  10. Its time to upgrade our daily driver again, so our 540i is up for sale. We'll offer it to fellow BMW fans before firing it out on TradeMe. The car: Calypso Red, Grey Leather interior. around 265,000 kms Has driver's side airbag, first aid kit, complete toolkit, correct course mat set, towbar. 15 inch standard E34 cross spoke wheels (including a spare with a nearly unused Uniroyal tyre) Car has a Cobra alarm fitted, but its not that good, except for remote central locking. It has 2 sets of keys with remotes, and one other spare key The car is in pretty good overall condition in line with the cars age and mileage. The usual E34 issues have either been sorted, or this car hasnt had the issue. Serviced as per the indicator lights by Page European. Since owning the car, we have replaced the front control arms (usual E34 issue), and the bushes are 750i items. The Engine PCV valve has been replaced, middle muffler has been replaced, along with the front shock absorbers. Over the last 6 months we have replaced the air conditioning compressor (so yes, the air con does run cold), spark plugs, and the intake hose between AFM and the engine. The known issues with the car: There is a paint reaction spot on the roof (has been on the car since we brought it), its a round 50mm blemish, that looks to have been caused by a bottle or container of some sort. Number plate light out warning comes on with the headlights....the lights are fine....could just be the tension on the bulb holder. LHS rear door seal could be replaced...its shrunk, and likes to fall off if your passengers rub over it getting in and out Cracked Fog light....it doesnt seem to leak, so I havent bothered to replace it. I post some current photos up once I've washed the car.....Sandra took it through to Auckland over Labour Weekend, and I havent had time to clean it since. This car has been our daily driver, and is only being replaced as we have brought a E39. If you are interested drop me a PM
  11. After buying my new 3.0SI, I'm after some "trinket" trim bits, that are missing on the car. Ideally I'm looking for a 3.0SI, but it must be a 1974 model with the later seats, alternatively an early E12 shares some of the bits, so I might be interested in one of those. I'd prefer a car with a rotten body, but good interior, it doesnt need to be a runner.
  12. Just got back from a weekend in Adelaide. Great event, good result from the Fords...even if they didnt get the number one position, and the T8 Holdens have been knocked off their perch. There were heaps of support races....the most I've seen at a Supercar event....the main game, Fujitsu's, UTes, Biante Touring Cars, Aussie racing cars, Aussie GTs (cool field ...Lambos, Porsches,Moslers Vipers and more) Minis and a Sports Cars field. They had a article in the Aussie Motorsport mag, about the changes to allow other manufacturers in, it was talking about using a "control" multicam V8 for anybody new coming in. Given that with the changes introduced this year along with the introduction of more standard chassis and driveline components....other bodies would be fairly easy to introduce....similar to NASCAR. As this is an Aussie focused series, I would have thought that the most obvious other contenders would be Toyota Aurion or the Mitsubishi 380/Diamante....cars that are in the Falcon or Commodore market segment, I wouldnt see a place for cars of "foreign" manufacture like Merc or BMW.
  13. Its a pity they didnt use the E12 M535i, which is a far nicer looking setup than the E28 M535i/M5. Its simpler and cleaner, and doesnt look like a BBS/Richard Grant bodykit grafted onto the base car. As for the early/late E34, it really depends on colour...I prefer the wider bonnet swage lines, but on the lighter cars...silver ...white etc agree the later grille treatment aint flash, on the dark coloured cars it doesnt stand out.
  14. My latest Project car needs a replacement drivers door Prefer a nice rust free one, but will consider one with rust in the lower door skin, so long as the frame is straight and rust free
  15. Personally I'd go NZ New 540i, I've owned a 535 manual, and auto in the past as well as the current 540i, and for what I use the car for the auto is the better deal. The big disadvantage is the M30 manual box is the heavy clutch, if you are in "stop/go" traffic as part of your daily driving, you will soon fuind out what I mean. NZ new generally is a better spec of car, and my preference is for a leather interior, as it seems to wear better than the cloth. Watch out for rust in the english imports, and a search through the forum will get you the opinions on either Japanese or Singapore imports. Only issues to look out for is the front end shimmy, caused by the front arms wearing out, worn shocks , and the usual dash dash display issue. The V8 is slightly less economical around town (15 vs 16 mpg ), but is much better than the 3.5 six on a trip, and with the 3.5, the auto is more economical than the manual. The only time I saw more than 20 mpg on the trip computer on my 535 manual, was between Christchurch and Dunedin , when we picked up the 3.0S. My 535iA would regularly see between 21-23 mpg touring, and with the V8 we have seen over 25. Given the higher mileages these cars have done, I wouldn't buy a 535 manual without evidence that the gearbox has had its bearings done, my car ws done at 120K, and was horribly expensive (luckily I took insurance). Drive the autos from cold - if they have any shifting issues from cold - sticking in gear or shifting into "neutral", chances are that the organic clutches are starting to wear out. A service and clean out will sort this temporarily, but you will need to do something with the box over time.
  16. you have got to be kidding. We serviced on Targa with one of these, and it was scary. They have tiny brakes, towing the rally car with all the gear in a SWB non turbo Transit isnt something I'd be rushing into ago. There is no mention of a brake upgrade, and with a 302 pushing it...the frigging thing wouldnt stop!
  17. I got offered a E34 540 manual for $8ish in Wellington, and the NZ New manuals come up from time to time. I wouldnt expect to pay more than $10K-12 for a top car, especially when the 3.6 M5s arent selling for much more. At 3000 pounds, by the time you have transported it, paid the GST, and got it through compliance, you would have to be budgeting $15K best case, $20K+ worst case (-compliance reveals dodgy repairs or rust - dont trust the fact that the vehicle has a current MOT). For that sort of money you would pick up one of the rare NZ New E39 540 manuals, or a top E34 M5.
  18. The 535iS is a marketing ploy, the only model with this designation was a badge engineered British market car. The NZ new models fitted with the manual box, designated HD12, were some of the best spec'd E34's in the world. In NZ there are a number of the dealers that subsequently sold the manuals as iS's, but if you ask BMW NZ, they were just a 535 manual transmission fitted wih a heap of options. When the cars were first released back in '88, the "standard" spec was a manual, with a automatic option. There have been a heap of British manual cars (watch out for rust) imported, and these are generally designated M535i (I think only model year 88/89), Sport or iS, as the base models, and SE as the upper spec model. The NZ New cars were better spec'd than the SEs, and you can usually tell the British cars as they don't have climate air conditioning, which was included on all the NZ new 535i's
  19. I'd look at it cautiously. At face value I would agree with the $1500 as being a realistic price, unless there are receipts for the work that has been done on the car. At the mileage it has currently done, I would expect to see some work - bearings in the gearbox - maybe a radiator and/or a headgasket, and potentially some headwork- camshaft etc. If none of this has been done to date, then within the next 50K km, I'd be expecting some big bills. I'd also be asking questions around the usual E34 stuff, front control arms, state of the display screens, state of the heating system etc. Also its had new shocks - genuine BMW? These cars had M-Tech Suspension, so I would expect genuine to put back in - or at least Bilsteins - depending on this answer, it might give an indication of the level of maintenance that the car has had in the past.
  20. In Nelson, but cheap enough http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-259273849.htm
  21. rxsumo

    E28 Kit

    I've got a rear under bumper skirt for a E28......don't want much for it, but it will need to be picked up in Wellington
  22. Just been over this exercise for one of my vehicles. We used VINZ and the cost of the inspection was $343.10, rego was $508.86, for 12 months and using my own number plates. Our vehicle was 1st registered in NZ in '87, apparently the criteria for inspection changes for vehicles 1st rego'd in '90 (tougher inspection. However the inspection we did, was a wheels off exercise, with all brake components being inspected and measured - so this would be a fairly good starting point - make sure that the fluid is fresh and all components are within factory specs - suggest that you need to be running fairly new OEM spec pads, also check for rust on brake hard lines, and power steering lines
  23. rxsumo

    e34 fuel flap

    Try your friendly dealer....they are about $35.00 trade, however make sure your have the closing spring fitted before putting the assembly back on the car....they generally dont come back out in one piece in my experience
  24. I've been in this position before, and it turned out badly. You have the right to have the vehicle restored to the condition it was in prior to the accident....at basically any cost. If you are insured, let the insurance company sort it out, or at least discuss what you are doing with your insurance company, so that they are briefed in case you need to get them involved. In my case, I had sorted out a deal with the offending party, had the work done on my car by an unknown company who destroyed large sections of the paintwork on my car, and then the insurance company had to sort the mess out. If you aren't insured, get the panelbeater you want to do the job, quote the job, and then tell the trucking company what the bill is. If they don't like the bill - tough. If they wont pay take it to the small claims court. A mate of mine did this a number of years ago, and managed to get a written off car rebuilt for around $12K, the insurance company from the other party was writing his car off at $1500. The car had sentimental value to my mate, so he was determined to have the car rebuilt.
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