Jump to content

Arata

Members
  • Content Count

    103
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by Arata

  1. Here are the photos. Sorry that weather weren’t great…
  2. Hey guys, yes I knew people would be asking for photos. I'll give it a wash and go for drive this weekend and I'll take some photos. I do apologise in advance that my photo shooting may not be great. As for the build thread yep I might be able to, I might even video record the whole thing (or I'll try). Ah forgot to mention that I did replace the crankshaft position sensor this was the very first thing I had to do before my ownership. Also the battery replaced at the same time. Anyway will keep you all updated on this one. If anyone in CHCH especially, you might recognise it as I don't see 2 door sedan Mtech2 with left hand drive unless someone is hiding it.
  3. Hey guys. Thanks for reply. This one has never been on sale, previous owner was the only one owner throughout the entire life, she bought it brand new in Japan and brought it here in around 2005, in fact she actually pretty much gave it to me due to having new car (of course I paid for it). Yep I’m planning on rebuilding the both engine/transmission in the next couple of months or within a year but for the meantime I’ll attack with the fuel leaks around the engine. any ideas on how to spot the fuel leaks in a easy way? Does have a oil leak so I’m gonna clean the engine bay and underneath first…
  4. Hi team. Recently got a very tidy E30 LHD 2 door sedan 325i Mtech2 (m20b25). Of couse it comes with issues and here goes haha... When starting the engine, it starts on the first go fine whether it is cold or hot, but dies within 5 - 10 seconds after. Key off again and switches back on, starts fine and doesn't die from there. Things I've already done on this car... New fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel hoses around the pump and fuel filter. New fuel pressure regulator. New idle control valve. New spark plugs. (Coils/HT leads/Distributor/Rotors are less than 2 years old and checked fine) I also put the total system cleaner through fuel tank and did make better and so far starts and runs fine on the first go. I'm thinking maybe the injectors are leaking as I can smell bit of fuel around the engine bay (not all the time). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  5. Hey guys. Wee update for my E46. Had it running for couple of weeks without really doing anything to it, and has been off for a while but from last week the lights started to show up again. Also, even when the ignition is on (without starting the engine) the lights comes up on dash and stays on, and of course, the 50% of other times disappears as they should like normally. I've been busy with other E46 projects and currently in the process of getting E30 (LHD) 325i 2 door sedan M-tech 2 version so I apologise for not coming back here. ASC doesn't have the steering angle sensor??? Thanks for the info I guess I can count that out for the issue I have. As for this morning and throughout the entire day, no lights on dash. Nothing. I'm starting to think it is actually the abs module even though codes doesn't really say anything apart from rear right wheel speed sensor signal interference... Although the other things I mentioned earlier in this post, very occationally, the brake pedal has bit of buzz when I let go. Note that the front/rear brake discs/pads are less than a year old and don't look bad, no visible leaks from the hoses (I do want to replace them all at some stage). Wondering if the seals inside the master cylinder is getting worn out but that's not really massive concern for me... Will keep you guys updated. Thanks.
  6. Hey Vass, thank you very much for input! I have several scanners at home, but I recently installed Inpa/NSC Expert and have been great using them, though I have BMWs in the last 7 years I know I'm late catching up installing them haha. As for the steering, just had a wheel alignment done when I replaced the tyres about 3 weeks ago, and the wheel alignment tech did say left front control arm is slightly bent for some reason, does not sway to the side anyway, but the steering wheel isn't perfectly straight. The reason I'm leaning towards the abs pump/module at this stage is that very very occasionally there is a buzzing noise when I let go the foot brake. Does not happen often enough, but after the drive when it happens, turn the car back on and the lights seems to come up. When I pump up the foot brake it goes super hard like it should when the car is off, and regardless of abs lights on it still brakes really good so I'm sure the brake booster/master cylinder is fine.
  7. Thanks Gaz and Eagle, have swapped the sensor, scanned again and nothing. Went for test drive and turned the car off. Still nothing showing. Then when I turned into ignition, the lights came back on. I am leaning towards the abs module. Any idea who does the rebuild in Christchurch?
  8. Hi team, just wondering if I could have some advice... I have E46 PFL 320i Sedan Year 2000 M54 5hp19 ZF Automatic with ASC ABS. Recently the traction control light, abs light, handbrake light started to come up on dashboard. Scanned the code and showed Rear wheel speed sensor/speed sensor signal interference/CAN fault DME. Rear wheel speed sensor has been replaced no more than a year ago as already had the codes on. (but no lights on dashboard at that time) I have rechecked that the wiring to the sensor and the sensor itself for any damage. Checked the data stream for signal from the sensor and it is getting signal. I have taken out the sensor once again, cleaned inside, checked for any damage inside the sensor hole. The 3 lights on the dashboard, sometimes it comes on and stays on until I turned the car off and turned back on, then it all disappears without clearing the codes. Sometimes it takes 1 week to bring the lights back on, sometimes within a day, or 3 days. My question is, is it finally the time I rebuild/replace the abs module? The fact that the lights keeps disappearing and appearing (not at constant pace), is it getting some different signal interference from something else that's affecting the abs to play up? Thank you very much for advance. Arata.
  9. Hi team. I apologise for very late reply to this section. The car is up running good now. The cause was the intake manifold not been lined up with the gasket properly. Took off the intake manifold and re-lined the gasket carefully and no more fault. Thank you very much for help.
  10. Hey Eagle. I'll try that today see where the noise is. It was from around the intake manifold area but doesn't seem from the disa valve or throttle body. I'll see... Can the CCV oil separator make the sound too by any chance? I highly doubt it as I've changed it pretty new...
  11. *Update on 08/09/2020 So my e39 still produces smoke from the exhaust manifold side. I had my dad come have a look at it too and we both agreed that it’s not from the engine oil burning. It’s almost like the smell of something plastic burning and smoking. I have replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets and have put the manifolds back in nice and tight and also pipes not touching anything else like O2 sensor cables but still does smoke. I will jack up the car and have a look but does anyone have confronted this sort of issue? *Updating this post again. Successfully found the sourse of the smoke. It was leaking from the valve cover and the gasket were new and sealed fine but ended up finding the valve cover itself had multiple small cracks that lead to leak down to the exhaust manifold. Bought a new one and no more smoke no leak. Thank you for those who helped me out.
  12. Hi. Thank you for the offer! I might borrow it. I've changed the spark plugs and started the engine, seems no different. The things I'm noticing at this stage is that I can definitely feel the misfire but I'm more concerned with huge shudder sound and also I can hear some metal kind of sound like cranking or cracking sound...
  13. I see. Do you know where I can get the smoke tester?
  14. Hey Zero. I've been scanning but nothing comes up yet apart from the fuel trim bank 1 and 2. My guess is spark plugs because they have bmw logo on them the last time I took one of them out... I have some replacements now so will see what that makes any difference. With the vacuum leak, like the e46 which I'm chasing up with, this e39 has been fixed far better than e46. All gaskets have been replaced, as well as CCV hoses, air intake hoses, dipstick O rings.
  15. Fuel filler cap does seal properly, although thinking about replacing soon but not urgently. You mean the little evap thing at the front side of the intake manifold? I also have changed that recently to the new one. And yes those vacuum cap things at the back of the intake manifold I haven’t looked at it but pretty sure there is 2 different sized caps should be there but I think they are not there... just waiting to receive the shipment that I ordered and I’ll put the caps on where they should be and see what happens.
  16. Thank you very much. I'll have a look on those.
  17. Disa valve gasket, both air intake lower and upper hoses are brand new. What do you mean by rubber bungs??? Maybe, maybe, those vacuum cap things at the rear of the intake manifold? I have a feeling that there are some missing but have not confirmed yet. I have some new ones coming soon hopefully as I did see some from the e39 was worn out. Could it be that?
  18. Any suggestion to why my e39 started having very rough idle when turning the ignition on? Clearly can tell that the engine shakes very hardly. I'm thinking either spark plugs or coils as I haven't changed it. The car is done 250,000km. Thank you in advance.
  19. Hi. So far I had the cylinder 1 to 6 all misfire codes for about 2 weeks and suddenly it disappeared on their own... What I still have though is that fuel trim bank 1 and bank 2 too lean. Have replaced the fuel filter pressure regulator and have replaced the CCV. Fuel filter wasn't as bad as I expected, but had some dirt inside a bit so was worth replacing. CCV was definitely worth as I did the one with my other e39, was expecting the bottom hose of the oil separator to the dipstick to be worn out, and was completely gone burger. Still has those 2 codes and with the yellow engine light on but no other codes so I'm guessing it's still having a vacuum leak somewhere... I'll try replace the gasket for intake manifold and throttle body. But after that I'm kind of running out of all options I can think of vacuum leaks...
  20. Okay. Will have a look at that. Thanks man much appreciated.
  21. Hi Zero. Not at this stage thinking of doing that. Some of my bmw friends are saying could be also the fuel filter pressure regulator as well?
  22. Hi team. I’m just trying to solve the problem with my E46 320i M54B22 and the engine light came on. I’ve scanned the codes and there’s a bank 1 and 2 fuel bank trim and also all six cylinder misfiring. I’ve had my air intake boots replaced and all the vacuum lines are replaced as well, no leaking from valve cover as I’ve replaced one this week. O2 sensors are quite new as well. The car doesn’t stall or idle rough either. My guess is could be a CCV system failure which I’m going to replace them very shortly but I just want to ask for your opinion of what else causes to all cylinder misfiring? Please and thank you very much in advance.
  23. So I've taken out the intake manifold and found out that the hose from CCV oil separater to the oil dip stick was completely torn apart. Could that cause the leaking to smoking??? Underneath the intake manifold was quite oily and not so much on exhaust manifold side. I've checked any other leak but no visible ones apart from this. I have replaced the all CCV system and also cleaned the throttle body and the idler controller vaIve. Also replaced the gasket to the intake manifold and the throttle body as well. Just started to putting things back together and half way through I have few connectors I don't recognise. I'll post another photo of it if anyone can help me would be very awesome!
  24. Update: just waiting all the parts to arrive within 1-2weeks maximum. I have ordered CCV hoses, new air intake hoses, vacuum lines, new valve cover and gasket. And hope this stops smoking again... I will also replace the coolant and upper and lower coolant hoses as well as the atf reservoir tank with new hoses with new clamps (it has a little leak from where old type clamps are). I’m also thinking of replacing the Vanos O rings and rattle kit but does this necessary to stop causing the smoking? In the future I will be as I’m replacing for my E46 at the moment. By any chance, does anyone know if I were to take intake manifold out, do I need to use the torque wrench to put that back? If so, what torque settings should I be using? Also I want to flush the engine as well. Any suggestions to this? I have a standard engine flush with me and also the engine oil and filter ready.
×
×
  • Create New...