blonky

Msport bumpers usually go for around $200, skirts $100-140?

Price dropped

Video doesn't work? Keen to see more been following your progress

So finally upgraded my headlights to OEM spec with clear corners, one of the best upgrades to date And downsized the wheels to 16" BBS Before: After: Still needs a wash...

Very clean

Have a full set of grey cloth seats from an E46 sedan as partner upgraded to leather Good condition, no rips, tears or burn holes - car only done 90,000kms when removed Front manual + rear (60/40 folding type), rear seats have the arm rest and ski hole Looking for $300 or near offer $150 SOLD Trademe link: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=639617384

Any E36 sedan or coupe shocks will fit but as above you would want the motorsport ones for your Msport

Had the same problem; was a 5A fuse under the hood

Bilstein B8s in my E36 were $365ea from Adens Tyres, bumpy for an everyday car

Next up was some 18" replica BBS wheels and fitting the skirts.. And finally made a start on the interior, bought a refurb'd headlining, reglued the door cards... And fitted half-leather powered seats from and E46 Took a bit of grinding since the mounts are slightly different between the E36 and E46 but fits nicely

The next thing to do was to replace the gearbox since 2nd was non-existent and 1st & reverse crunched. Bought a replacement which was stolen from my driveway So ended up getting a rebuilt unit and fitted a nice B&M short shift kit with a weighted knob - I'm sure Tristan has all but told how much of a difference it makes! Replaced the diff from 4.44 down to a nice 3.15. I used to crawl in Auckland traffic in 3rd gear because the low ratio meant 2nd was sitting at around 4k rpms at 30km/hr. Now I can happily sit in 2nd gear all day But this led to the driveshaft bearing wearing out quickly, followed by the gearbox mounts - Thanks to Ray sorted the bearing and fitted E39 g/box mounts which should handle the torque over the standard 318is ones Sorry no pics, got a bit excited with it Old rear bumper: http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f193/blo...zps7e33f91e.jpg Finally removed this and fitted a standard one, Ray sorted one for a mean price, front and side m-sport kit from a Ti model which fits nicely. Plate courtesy of Andy Skirts not fitted at this point ^

Yeah unfortunately as it turns out, can't fit OEM headlights because of the intercooler piping...unless I hack off the motorised headlight levelers?

Next was to fix the exhaust system. It had a huge boy racer muffler so that had to change... Pitstop Albany sorted that with a twin exit muffer and a resonator for a more stock look

Next was to up the suspension... Decided on Bilstein sports with H&R springs, E46 rear shock mounts and new front mounts But not first without this problem, wheel nuts had been previously ground down and were now too short which resulted in a workshop having to easy-out a couple of them

So with the knowledge it was making less than stock, I added to the list: New AFM New injectors Dyno tune With that a more respectable 213kw at the rear wheels was achieved

Some of you may remember this project: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=28787 The conversion was given up on and the car sold on. Had a lot of wiring issues and the engine mounts caused the engine to contact the side of the engine bay and the bonnet; the shop doing the conversion really mucked it up Anyway I picked it up for a good price to occupy my weekends for the next few months First I needed to pass my WOF which required: Side repeaters to work Front control arm bushings worn Rear tyres Number of blown bulbs Front indicators to work Front brake pads and rotors low Rear seatbelt Turns out the reason why the indicators weren't working was because they weren't plugged in All easy to fix To do list: Remove ugly body kit and replace with M-sport items Fix headunit wiring Replace shocks and springs Upgrade brakes Fix shoddy E36 interior Fix leather seats New wheels New headlining Dyno tune Manual diff (originally a 4.44 auto) Exhaust that doesn't sound sh*t New gearbox with working 2nd gear Replace ugly headlights with OEM ones Boost controller Find out a hundred other things wrong as I go along First things first, took it to ST Hitec for a power run: Made a whole 113kw!

I always thought cars only had photos like that so they could better show the front seats and cabin for trademe? Can't believe anyone would actually sit in that

Could also be a bad ground connection; usually between the battery and chassis

Looking for a climate control carrier for an E46 sedan, to relocate the climate control down to where the glasses compartment is if anyone has one? Part 12 from the below diagram, can have the ashtray or the compartment not fussed

Keen

Just past the center hanger (diff side). Under torque the hanger flexed enough for the driveshaft to just touch the body. The gearbox mounts were also shot which made the flexing even worse and probably caused the center hanger to perish - we fitted E39 mounts which are meant to be stiffer Yeah, car was put on hold for a few months so only decided to sort it now Anyway replacing both makes everything so much smoother, there's no jolt when changing gears and no rumbling

SR20 has been good with no issues even running at 15psi (has a steel headgasket though) with pretty much standard head and bottom end. Previous owner paid for the conversion but it wasn't quite done right, I picked it up and finished it off so would be bad example of costs - he estimated around 18k but that includes the engine and the car, plus what ever I put into it. With the right people and if you supply the engine and g/box it wouldn't be hard to get it in for under $6k. Don't forget a dyno tune will set you back $1200+ if you mod the engine too

Exhaust on the wrong side wasn't a big issue - but it meant the exhaust manifold has a tight-ish bend and with the wastegate it isn't the best setup for flow, but is still doing pretty good considering. Wiring isn't hard but most people don't seem to understand how to wire correctly which means thing are often not wired correctly ie TPS sensor The good thing about the SR20 is that it weighs only 10kg +/- more than the stock M42 so you can retain the same brakes and suspension since these are already pretty decent in a BMW. Since you're going from auto too make sure you get a diff from a manual, yes I know 4.44 is a fun ratio but for the daily drive it's not very nice having to cruise in 2nd gear in the city and having the engine droning at 4k rpm on the motorway. Luckily from what I understand the Ti can run an E30 diff?

I have an E36 coupe with an SR20 transplant; the sump is custom to fit around the crossmember. The problem with an SR is the exhaust headers are on the opposite side to the BMW engine so it gets a bit tight and sharp angles in the exhaust manifold will limit your output. However it is a lot smaller and lighter than the other options and will help maintain a close 50/50 weight distribution which outweighs the cons Mine is running larger injectors, T3/4 turbo, custom headers, walbro fuel pump and a chipped ECU + electronic boost controller which netted me around 220rwkw At a minimum you need new engine and g/box mounts, driveshaft, exhaust, fuel lines and if you remove the ABS to free up some space new brake hard lines too. The most difficult part was wiring up everything for the new engine. Power steering still works too

Update: Finally got around to jacking it up and taking a look, turns out the center bearing is worn so under acceleration the driveshaft rubs against the body See photo: This is also called the center hanger? Thanks for your help Glenn