HalfJobHarry

Had a walnut blast done about two weeks back .Intakes were terrible. Might be psychological but the induction sounds better to my ear.... There is definitely better pickup of the power before the turbos spool though....

Yeah it's terrible for us car loving types Fortunately (or not) I don't do enough driving in the 135 for it to really be a big pain, more of an inconvenience. Dams are back to 73% now...but much lower rainfall predicted over the coming weeks...so no end in sight really. I don't seem them lifting the ban over summer as that's a shedload of pools to be filled. I think it will only be resolved once they bring all the additional supplies online.

Nothing new and only 300 or so kms driving to report in a few month. With the hosepipe ban still on in Auckland I decided to book the wash bay at United Car Care in Penrose to do a decent wash. The Klasse, Collinite + Fireball Wax combo is holding up well (don't really expect different after 300 km and a few months lol), I didn't take any pictures of the beading but the fireball wax beads up like crazy. Very impressed with it.

Also look into the cause of the timing chain issues. On some models it's down to a poorly designed chain tensioner. Replacing this tensioner as early as possible with the upgraded part can avoid the problem altogether. I don't if this is the came on the N47 but it is the case on the N46.

Checking here before I buy new from the US. After a JB4 for the N54 engine.

It's crossed my mind, but with the roads here I'm going to persist with a dual turbo setup aiming for a fairly modest 500 hp at the crank in the near future. There is realistically so much more needed though, that kit is just the 'core' of the system. A significantly better and larger inter-cooler is all but essential for single turbo. JB4. Two step cooler plugs. Upgraded chargepipe (if you don't already have one). Depending on your power goal (which is presumably well in excess of 600 HP if you're going single turbo) fueling needs consideration too, E85 setup (LPFP ugrade and HPFP overdrive kits)....or additional port injection.

I've noticed their conversion prices are awesome. Presumably they keep your autobox afterwards and given the refurb/resale value of them allows a tidy offset to keep the pricing down? I have also heard nothing but good about them but cannot vouch personall.

If you keep up with the complete fluid replace every few years then any hydroscopic properties are likely not worth it. Interestingly BMW often specify the DOT 4 Low Viscosity fluid...which when I went to the dealer for it they initially told me "they don't sell it"...then when I produced a BMW part number they they were surprised saying "nobody never bought that before" Apparently there is "need" to run the LV fluid with BMW ABS/Traction Control ...but frankly I'm certain garages the world over have been putting in regular DOT 4 forever without ill effect.

A locksmith (most cover auto locks too as they are the same) of any repute can get you in with a lockpick in about 60 seconds. You might get them for under 120 bucks with the callout fee. Beware the locksmith who wants to start drilling . I would go this way over smashing the glass anytime. And once you've been bitten with this....winding one or even both windows down (for the paranoid) is a habit that never leaves you. Sometimes if I need the doors shut and windows up for some reason I pop the boot as can go in that way if needed.

Anywhere in Auckland do a sensibly priced auto box filter and fluid change? I didn't bring my auto fluid hand pump thingy from the UK and don't quite have the access in my garage to do it....AT fluid is my kryptonite too...I always have a a mishap with it

What's wrong with it if I may ask? I've rebuilt a few units over the years and it is VERY DIYable. Hardest part is probably sourcing a kit here....almost certainly needs to come from overseas. I suspect any 'euro specialist' place will be more than happy to do the job for you.

An actual hoist (like an engine hoist/ block and tackle) or hire of a lift? IF it's the latter I'm also on the lookout for somewhere that is amenable to letting me rent their space and use their lift on a casual basis ....

When I can't wait and for smaller items, gaskets , solenoids etc. 'alleuroparts' have been okay for me locally. They are all over the place on pricing though, but I've had good results sending them a parts list and asking for 'their best price' .... but FCP euro otherwise. EDIT: for the 'big ticket' items HPFP, Injectors, Water pump...FCP etc is going to beat anywhere in NZ by a mile. Also FCP's lifetime warranty thing which I've never had cause to test is apparently the biz.....

Had some time to drive part of the route...didn't have enough to to go all the way around, but was some lovely driving, great views and some nice twisty bits! I find it laughable the speed limit on the motorway is 100 but you can legally drive 100 for most of the roads on this route

I need to signup over on that forum and ask how much they are even selling the stage 1 for. Totally up for splitting the shipping if they are selling at a fair price.

That's interesting actually...I'm just following the herd without the suspension knowledge myself. I do know enough to know that camber changes due to many things, so it makes sense that -2 degrees static camber might not be the "magic number".

Thanks that's a good thread. Somebody from NZ asking for a set at the beginning of August....wish I could have piggy backed on that!

Yeah I've been eyeing the turner motorsports blue fixed camber plates, spraying them to make them not stand out and then who'll know....still got a fair bit of reading to do to really understand this. Ah...camber pins, good ideal. Some "free negative" adjustment there. Any idea how much negative just the pins would get..less than half a degree?

Thanks! I wouldn't say it's bad at all really, but there is clearly room for improvement. My shocks are old and to me the damping doesn't feel great (a commonly reported E82 complaint). I mean relatively not great...not Renault Espace 'not great' Suspension is so far out of my wheelhouse , I really don't want to become an expert on it. A known recipe of shocks and springs is probably the way I'll go.

Thanks! Based on the input from everybody on the thread, coilovers seems to be a step too far. I'll look at shock/spring combos. On the camber plate thing. The 'sages out there' seem to suggest that putting the E82 front to about -2 degree of camber is a big help on understeer. Just changing the camber plates is touted (again by the sages 'out there on the web') as the way to do this. In the non-coilover scenario i'd also need bearings?

You are right, looking at some vids online it does appear it's not a bolt in section :(. Any competent exhaust place can take care of that for you, I don't have any recommendations though locally. Regarding WOF. This is how it is in NZ as far as I can interpret what is written. Your car must comply with emissions requirements, which without the CAT it is not. However the issue in NZ is that they don't test emissions on the WOF and has anybody ever seen a roadside test? I think you just have to be prepared that one day in the future they might start actually testing the emissions and then you'll have to take some action (probably refitting the cat ) . I'd do the cold air intake almost as a first upgrade, big restriction removed and they sound good. Air / Water intercoolers are great compared to air-air. 24 TIMES better conductivity from water....so you are correct you can likely go very far with the current setup. Lucky.

So I'm starting to plan short/medium term upgrades for my 135i. Suspension changes is not something I have much experience with beyond swapping like for like.... I'm not interested in lowering really from the current ride height, seems low enough already really....this seems to be one of the mainly described benefits of going for coilovers (I appreciate they will need certification). However with that in mind and there being plenty of good aftermarket shock and spring combos (or even plenty of love out there for Bilsteins with the stock springs), do I even need/want coilovers? Any experiences, advice or war stories are much appreciated.

Welcome. Making me miss my 330i I had for many years back in the UK. The front and rear bushes and the VANOS rebuild rank as most memorable changes I did. Please please please baby the gearbox in reverse. I had to rebuild my box as a tyre place broke the reverse drum (not totally their fault as they are week) by dropping it into gear with some revs on...

The boost shouldn't make the plugs fail...it's more about reducing temperatures to fight knock. If you go further and increase the boost more with additional maps then 1 or 2 step colder plugs will become necessary. The upgrades to go for (IMHO) initially (after the charge pipe) are replace the stock air filter system, catless downpipes, inlets and probably an upgraded intercooler. You can use your logs to determine when the right time to go to cooler plugs is.

Any idea what the black is ? Some kind of paint?