Spinner99

Hello, I saw heard a black 650i coming tonight when I was out for a walk, the plate started HSZxxx - is that anyone on here's ? I'd love to know what exhaust work it's had and where I can get one like it, it sounded like music to my ears

This popped up on my youtube suggestions today

I'm open to earning some pocket money doing little jobs like that on the weekend

Thanks - sorry if I missed it in the thread, do you know what engine is in it? e.g. N43, N45 ? if not can you PM me the rego or VIN and I can find it from there. Will have a look over the weekend and come back to you.

Hi There, Just checking, are you asking for someone to help you do the work, or are you asking someone's to do it for you? How many km's has the car done?

How did you get on @Nigel ?

There's more than one reason why the car might not start. It could be a power supply issue (e.g. Battery is dead, a cable is broken etc), but it can also be a number of other things not related to the battery, for example it could be a "computer says no" issue. When you push the start button the cars computers do a whole lot of magic stuff (like checking if the key in the vehicle is allowed to start the car) - and only if the computers are happy will they command the starter motor to turn. You really need to get a proper scanner on the car to see if there are any indications of why it won't start.

@E63 just in case you're still looking for parts https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/exterior/listing/4728112566

oh $&#$ off really? ffs

All the "raised pedestrian crossings" aka judder bars that are going in on main arterial roads in Lower Hutt. One popped up on Fairway Drive a couple of months ago, I've seen two going in on Oxford Tce and Cambridge Tce this week. I hate having to slow to 15km/h when there isn't anyone near the crossing.

FYI There are a couple of coding options i found to fix it, I made them but I didn't see any difference but it might work for someone else? If it does please let me know. Both in the KOMBI module. Changing from aktiv to nicht_aktiv is supposed to show the true car speed. BC_DIGITAL_V_KORREKTUR BC_V_KORREKTUR

Is the one on this car what you're after? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/other/listing/4640866643

The car lies to you I've noticed if I'm driving along with the instrument cluster saying 50hm/h, ISTA reports the speed as lower (e.g. ~47km/h). My conclusion was the car knows exactly how fast it's going, but it inflates that a little on the instrument cluster for reasons. For me 53km/h on the instrument clustser = 50km/h IRL. I suspect this is something to do with variances in tyre diameters etc and them wanting to avoid the opposite where you're going faster IRL than the instrument cluster says, as that could open them up to having to pay for speeding tickets etc. One of the giveaways for me is the RPM, I'm making up numbers at this point for illustrative purposes, but if the car is sitting on 1950 RPM and tells you it's doing 50km/h, it's likely that 2000rpm is probably a true 50km/h.

Morning, I haven't taken a look under my car to confirm but looking at some photos online you shouldn't need to lower the subframe if you're just doing the lower oil pan ( I'm looking at this post https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/n62-lower-oil-pan-sump-gasket-replacment.1358261/ ) . The upper oil pan yes, I think that would be a lower the subframe type job. If you want to do the alternator gasket with the subframe lowered I'm sure that would create more room/access there's a bolt or two around the power steering pump that were difficult to get to but might be easier if the subframe wasn't there, but you don't need to lower the subframe to do that job if you don't want to. You do need to support the engine though to remove one of the engine mounts as the mount attaches over or on (I can't quite remember) the alternator bracket. I found putting the bracket back on to be a PITA and second set of hands was quite useful for that. If you want a hand let me know. My other advice is the oil cooler loved to leak oil so be prepared to contain that I think the worst part of the alternator bracket job was getting the alternator back in, I don't know what I was doing wrong but I think it took me 2 hours 😮 Replacing the engine mount on the alternator bracket side would be a great job to do while doing the alternator bracket as you've half got it off already. The drivers side would be extra work. Sorry I don't know how to tell if they're past their useful life either