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About Spinner99

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    1st Gear

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  • Car
    E61 550i
  • Car 2
    E87 130i

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  1. the scope creap here is real This all started because I set out to replace the bump stops in the rear which had seen better days. I think that started at $50 or so in parts, nek minit here we are talking about replacing shocks all round (and lets face it there's a few other bits that could do with replacing too while I'm removing the shocks). This is going to get expensive!
  2. Haha I was just having that thought today as to whether I should check out what state they're in
  3. Hello, I'm reaching out to see if anyone has replaced the rear shock absorbers in an E87 with M Sport suspension? I've discovered today my rear shocks are no good (I've removed one from the car and once compressed it won't expand again). I'm trying to find replacements but I'm getting super confused with all the cross overs etc. I have like 30 browser windows open right now lol. If anyone has been where I am and has word's of wisdom I'd love to hear from you please Here's where I got all confused. The original part number is 33528036014 which is written on the shock sitting on the desk in front of me right now, which in realoem shows as being "for vehicles with M Sports suspension" https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=UF92-EUR---E87-BMW-130i&diagId=33_1233 - I've noted there are two other options listed which have different part numbers, there is "Sports Suspension Settings" (33526771559) (yes it's different to M Sports suspension) and what I'll call "standard" (33526771555) . The 803 6014 part number is only for the E87 and isn't listed for any other vehicles. I've been trying to find a sachs replacement, and I can't find one that cross references to the msport part number. I have found the sachs 310 984 but on the zf website it says that's for the standard suspension models https://aftermarket.zf.com/en/aftermarket-portal/services-and-support/catalog/#/article/310+984?languageID=4&brandID=14,22,32,35,68,126,161,294,8888&countryID=AUS . I have found some Sach's shocks for sale on ebay (note I'm not an ebay fan for car parts) that are allegedly for M sport models https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173133653180 , but the Sach's part number in the picture seems to point to the 311 410 https://aftermarket.zf.com/en/aftermarket-portal/services-and-support/catalog/#/article/311+410?languageID=4&brandID=14,22,32,35,68,126,161,294,8888&countryID=AUS which has a whole lot of BMW part numbers but none of them are the part number listed for my car in realoem. I looked up some of the part numbers and they came back to E90's. At a dead end I thought I might check out Bilstein B4's as an option as I'd seen people talking about those, but from what I could see on the Bilstein catalog they cross back to the BMW part number 33526771559 ("Sports Suspension" rather than "M Sports suspension") . The Bilstein website seems to list a B8 Performance Plus (24-115957) "for vehicles with M-technology" which I'm assuming is M Sports, but sadly when I click on it it doesn't show any BMW part numbers it crosses back to. I don' t know a lot about shocks, so I'm wondering if I'm being way to fussy on making sure it's the right part number, and any of these options will actually be fine? Or are they physically different (e.g. I think the M-Sport E87 sits a bit lower, so maybe the shocks could also be a bit shorter?) I'll go put this shock back on the car now and I can move it. Thank you.
  4. https://m.facebook.com/TheRockDrive/videos/bmw-drivers/909673150580586/
  5. Does the noise change with the fan speed? It's kind of hard to tell in the video but I think it does? If it is, an easy first thing to look at would be the blower motor. It's #1 on this diagram, access is from the passengers foot well and it's relatively easy to remove. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=UN73-USA-07-2013-E88-BMW-135i&diagId=64_1453 . Just a call out in case you get parts from overseas - this part is different on left hand drive and right hand drive vehicles. If there's nothing obvious during a visual inspection maybe you can test it out of it's housing to see if the noise still occurs in the car when it's removed? Another line of thought is does the noise happen when the a/c is turned off? if not you might want to get an a/c person to look at the a/c side. An easy first step would be checking the refrigerant level.
  6. I'm not sure if it counts, but a decent code reader. ISTA, INPA etc. You're peeing into the wind without one
  7. Oh great you have ISTA! I appreciate it's probably a delicate issue suggesting to use your own code reader rather than the mechanics though If you haven't already, have a read of the FUB "Gear Selector switch (GWS)" - it has some info on when selections can change but I'm not sure if it'll be helpful in your situation. And if you do get the opportunity to get some one on one time with your car there's also an ABL "GWS: Selector leaver interlock" that looks interesting, if you did get the opportunity to run that on the car while it's playing up it might be able to point you in the right direction? I found both of those at Vehicle management -> Troubleshooting -> Function Structure -> Power Train -> Transmission control unit 6HPTU -> Gear Selector Switch
  8. Is it showing "D" on the selector but the transmission is not going into gear? Or is it refusing to move the selector out of park? Sorry I know this comment isn't helpful, I'm just kinda surprised they didn't do all the solenoids at the same time. There's a massive assumption on my part but I'm assuming you have one of the e-shift transmissions and were talking about the solenoids attached to the mechatronic? e.g. not the one on the shift selector. My $0.05 is I'd be wanting to plug in the computer and watch the live data to see if what the transmission thinks is happening is what's happening. e.g. brake pedal is pressed, vehicle speed is <5 km/h (off the top of my head I think that's the limit on shift selection changes but might be wrong, sorry if I am) , shift release button is selected, door open/closed that kind of thing. A crazy out there suggestion also is to check the battery is fully charged and good. I had my E61 kick into Neutral once while driving (and only once thankfully) when the battery was low. Full panic stations at the time it was quite violent and I thought the sky was falling down. I had a few other low voltage related fault codes so I charged the battery and it's been fine since.
  9. bu$$ger yes that's the one What about this one in upper hutt? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/other/listing/4368397244 The vin decoder says it came with 644 but not 633 or 6nf.
  10. There's a few E60's etc around being parted out you could probably get one from there? There's an E63 up at pickapart in Taita that might still have that bit? I'd recommend you get the vin of the car and run it through a vin checker and see if the car you're looking at has the same option you're looking for.
  11. Spinner99

    E93 Battery

    My opinion is bigger is better when it comes to batteries
  12. My understanding is there is no cartridge replace, it's a fit and forget device. There are no filters in it, no moving parts. The diesel flows through magnets which destroy the "bug" on the way through. I think the idea is it goes in your fuel line before any other filters, injectors etc so as to prevent said bug clogging your fuel filters etc. Re the fuel pressure question, great question, i have no idea sorry
  13. As an alternative to the biocide, have you seen one of these before? https://dieselsolutions.co.nz/product/de-bug-l140/
  14. My $0.05 @Polemic is you probably need a space saver if you want it to fit in the space saver sized hole in the boot of your car. I think a full sized rim will either be too round (e.g. the rim diameter is too large for the holding area in the boot) or will be too tall (rim width is too wide) and will raise the boot floor. When I purchased my car the importer fitted it with non run flats and sent me on my way and I didn't like that idea so I looked around for a while but ended up settling on a new space saver kit from the local bmw dealer. It wasn't cheap but there weren't really any other options I could find locally, and as you've found out shipping for one from overseas was prohibitive. You could maybe have a look around some of the vehicles that are on trademe for parts/wrecking and look them up in the vin decoder to see if they came with a space saver. you might get lucky? I think the option you're looking for is 'S300 - Emergency Spare Wheel' which is in the "Environment and Safety" section in Mdecoder.
  15. Yep - got a pre warning email it was going to go up for the 130i, that was a ominous sign. Got the letter from AA Insurance last week - up 17%, and of course they dropped the "agreed" value but only by $400. I had a claim for a windscreen on my E61 last year but in theory that's a different policy? I don't think they remove your no claims bonus for windscreens either but I might be wrong on that. Heres the guff in the email they sent me. Why is my premium increasing? Our premiums are influenced by claims data and a range of factors, including your location, the type of car you own and more. Whilst we strive to maintain our premium levels and keep them as competitive as possible, many of our costs relate to factors beyond our control, especially the number and cost of claims we receive. Recently, inflation and increasing reinsurance costs have impacted premiums across the insurance industry. For us, claims have significantly increased this past year due to rising thefts and weather events, like the North Island floods and Cyclone Gabrielle earlier in the year. Additionally, supply chain constraints have meant significant delays in obtaining parts to repair cars. With more demand for parts across the industry, the cost of parts has also increased. This all means that the time and cost to resolve our car insurance claims has been impacted and the cost of claims has substantially increased. We’re continually checking our pricing against factors like the number and types of claims we experience and changes to the cost of running our business. This means that each year your premium can change, even if your personal circumstances haven’t. To better understand how your premium is calculated, please visit our dedicated webpage or read our blog all about understanding your premium. P.S. if you think that's bad, you should see my house & contents insurance. They should have sent lube in the letter when that got renewed.
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