Hutty008

Scroll on Facebook marketplace for 2 hours a day 😂.

Would be lucky to get 800 for the calipers as they are very chipped and rusted. Have to remember that car has 200kms on it. Yest I do think you can make money on it but not a lot. He had it listed for 2k when I saw it and I offered him 1.5k and he accepted it but I still didn't end up taking it.

Went to buy it to do a 130i manual drivetrain swap. The car was in a lot worse condition than described. The entire car has bad clear coat chipping and the underside is covered in rust, like bad rust the brake rotors wouldn't even be usable it's that bad. At the time he didn't even have on his listing that the interior was covered in mold and it was missing the key. He even tried to convince me that the clear coat was fine and he showed pictures of it after he had washed it while it was still wet. He was pissed that I didn't take it, and couldn't believe that I made a 12 hour round trip drive and wasn't going to take it.

Rear subframe prepared and ready to go in. Treated the surface rust spots were the weld lines were and painted any gaps in the paint, low effort compared to refinishing the whole thing but should definitely prevent further rust. Installed all the new bits as well, aluminum subframe bushings, super pro diff bushings, ball joints in the trailing arm, M3 spring arms, hard race toe arms, SPL eccentric lockout kit and new knuckle side bolts.

Front subframe out ready for the sump gasket job. It cleaned up real good and I swapped the M3 steering rack on ready to go back in. Before that though there is lots and lots of cleaning to do to the underside of the engine bay, then new sump gasket and engine mounts can go in. Probably my favorite but about having it completely apart is to clean it spotless.

Thanks mate, I need about 430mm or more to clear so that's sad, really need to find another set of wheels for my car to put some more regular tyres on. Don't want to waste my semi slicks on big road trips.

Can you measure the barrel diameter, wondering they would clear the 370mm brakes.

Also a lock at my exhaust setup for those who it might insert. Muffler has a bypass pipe to the valve side and has the first camber pipe wrapped. The resonator has also been wrapped. And the mid-pipe has been crossed over and had some added in to make it equal length like the laptop exhaust.

These are all the rear arms I will be running. I previously converted the M3 upper arms to ball joints on the knuckle side using through the use of CMP engineering shims.

Started today off with some odd jobs. New coolant expansion tank, I used an n55 one which all bolted up, has a much better level indicator which was the reason I made the switch, I even transferred over the factory Japanese sticker. Also did a new geniune BMW upper radiator hose, very surprised the old one was not leaking as it was completely f*!ked. Along with that I did a new hood latch as the old one didn't have the yellow rubber piece and was surface rusting and I installed a new power steering reservoir as with the M3 rack going in I want the whole system cleaned out. Next week I will be doing a new Eccentric shaft sensor as mine has been seeping oil though the pins and will be doing a new valve cover while I'm there as mine is original and there is no way I'm doing that good again any time soon. After that I will be dropping the front subframe to the the oil pan gasket, some new engine mounts and the water pump feed hose. I noticed when I did the water pump and thermostat that it was a bit swollen from past oil leaks and I have already replaced the other u-shaped hose next to it so that's the last one on my list.

Dropped the subframe today. I decided last week to stay with the non-m subframe as the trailing arm mounts on a slightly different angle, it would be ok as in putting ball joints into there but just doesn't sit right with my OCD ( can be seen in the photo below ). As such I order some hardrace toe arms instead of using the M3 ones. Next step is to install the aluminum subframe bushing which should turn up tomorrow, replace the diff bushings, install hardrace toes arms with eccentric lockout, replace the trailing rubber bushings with ball joints and install the m3 spring arms ready for m3 shocks. Should make for the perfect rear end, fully ball joints and solid subframe bushings.

Sorry for the delay mate, highest temps I have seen is only 115 degrees.

Yeah I definitely need to give them a call for a custom quote once the car is done and certed. Right now it's insured as if its like every other 130i in the country, bone stock, unloved and unmaintained 😂.

Interesting, I'm already with ami. What was the process to get that valve. Where they pretty accommodating with the mods adding to the value.