polley

How much are you wanting to spend ? I know of a blue 330ci, heated seats and glass sunroof I was going to snap up for my self.

On 9/10/2021 at 6:33 PM, The H. Behemoth said:

Hey, here is some input from experience. All this will depend on your power goals and how much power you start with. In your case, If you are set on the SC14, you can typically get 280-320 HP at the crank with a proper tune at around 8 PSI from most M52B28 engines. The Penguin Pools NZ race car used the M54B30 engine with the HMW V2 SC14 Kit and saw over 330WHP 3 years ago, and the American Endurance race cars saw well over 400rwhp with the S52B32 build engine in 2017. You can get a little bit more with the M90 (they are both the same size, the M90 is tri lobed so 10-15% more efficient) but those units are hard to come by.  They are all roots blowers and will give a linear torque curve unlike anything else, But I would not push a stock engine past 300.

Go with 36lbs or 42lbs injectors. The ECU you have is likely the MS43 (if you are lucky) otherwise its a MS45, both can be flashed by a good tuner. Its all in the tune. 

Keep reading through the forced induction section of this forum, you will find enough information, all the best with your project.

No the penguin pools drift car used a m52tub28. It still runs the same engine but now with a turbo. 

Superchargers were a consumable item, to the point it was hard to find good ones as spares.

It went reasonably well, but its of my opinion the SC14 is just too small for what's expected of it on these engines, so lifespan is greatly shortened. The mounting of the supercharger bracket was a bit flimsy as well, I had concerns about it but it never gave any trouble. The SC14 is bit of a tight bit trying to jam it between the alternator and intake manifold - not that there is much else options, but it makes the inlet manifold to the supercharger and the rest of the plumbing bit of a nightmare.

I don't have my address on my license either. Its when you get pulled up, they ask your address and they check it in their system and it does not match they seem to get upset.

Had that happen heaps with the license having the wrong address associated to it, but mail from LTSA getting sent to correct address. Gave up trying to get it sorted, neither side LTSA ( or whatever ever they have decided to call them selves this month) or cops interested in fixing it.

Diesel 5 series or x5 for sure. E60s are cheap now

Unlucky. I've had a few and they skid hard, rev limiter all day. 😎

7 hours ago, NZ BMW said:

Yeah, except the one in the link is really not well spec'd. Plus you get to enjoy the timing chain issues in the M62 so pick your poison. 

Yeah I wouldn't pick that one. 

How many people actually have issues with timing chains or is it another internet rumor. I've had a few and no issues at all.

33 minutes ago, jon dee said:

Well, as a person grows up and matures, they tend to have a more responsible attitude. Don't worry, it will happen to you soon enough

Cheers...

Sounds terrible. Is there a cure ?

A highed specced 740 is superior to a 750i imo. The m62 is a much better engine.

Someone online that you don't even know has a cooler and more powerful car than you, does a skid (that you don't agree with). Resorts to personal attacks calling the guy low IQ and a drongo lol.

41 minutes ago, KwS said:

Never understood "skids". Just something drongos do in their falcodores to look cool to their equally low IQ mates.

Bit rich coming from someone who gets excited over a Honda Fit tbh.

5 hours ago, jon dee said:

So can anyone explain to me the actual purpose of this.... what is it demonstrating ???

Cheers...

 

Just looks like someone having fun, doing what they enjoy with their car.

6 hours ago, Etwenty1 said:

Thanks, I've gone down the EWS delete route with a new DME.

Yep that works as well, as long as you don't mind the disabled theft protection, mismatched VIN numbers, and just be aware of different software variants / options, ie some cars having SAP and others not etc.

Take clone of DME and load on to replacement one, then sync EWS and you should be away. Common problem.

Shouldn't be a problem to weld.

Try turn asc off and see if it helps.

15 hours ago, M3AN said:

Interesting. Does that apply for all jobs or just out of the way jobs?

I'm not being judgy but if, for example a plumber, wanted to charge me either I'd just call another plumber, or sparky, or builder, or etc. It's not like there's a shortage of any around me.

Out of the way, as long as it's an 'extraordinary' fee sure, but normal time and miles is a basic cost of working right? You can't do the job if you can't get to the site, my employer doesn't pay for my to-and-from work travel time or mileage. And if people have enough work that they can afford to turn down jobs then it's a non-issue right, you pick the most lucrative jobs regardless of location, you shouldn't need to add additional fees.

I'm fascinated a little by this, perhaps being a city lad has just never exposed me to this reality?

At my previous job it was for all jobs, nearby or far. $2 per km, there and back, while charging full workshop rate for time traveled.

Why would I drive my vehicle around at a reduced hourly rate (or free as some people would expect), when i can stay in the comfort of the workshop and charge full rate on another job. If there is some other sucker out there willing to drive around for free by all means, call them instead lol!

Now I'm somewhere else, and its a set fee for travel around town. Out of town is extra.

Most of the time dealing with the general public is such a f**k around i understand why a lot of people don't bother. I do a bit of work on the side for people, and I turn people away all the time because the hassle just isn't worth it, I don't even bother doing jobs for people unless I know them any more.

20 hours ago, leichtbau said:

Tradies who charge both a mileage rate AND an hourly fee for the travel time. You can have one or the other, not both.

I'll charge both thanks.

It costs to run my vehicle x amount per km. And it costs for my time. Otherwise I'm better off to do jobs close by / at the workshop and actually get paid for my time rather than drive around for free.

Remove valve cover and check chain is intact, camshaft timing is correct and check for broken rockers. Or even a broken camshaft.

Assuming you checked compresion with throttle wide open?

If no compression i wouldn't even bother with the timing light at this point but would be removing the valve cover.

How did you check for fuel? It may not be enough if pump is failing. 

Fuel, air, spark and compression is all that's needed. As long as valve timing and spark timing are correct. 120 psi seems low, but should at least run at that.

Have come across failing crank sensors that were still operational but all over the place, causing ignition timing to all over the place.  Timing light would confirm that though. 

Can you put a timing light on it and confirm timing is correct? 

Check compression if you have access to a tester.

 Remove oil cap and see if valve train is rotating in case it dropped the cam chain. 

TPS won't stop it from running. Seems like a coincidence. As Glenn said check distributor. 

16 hours ago, aja540i said:

You can also get a remote control to turn it on and off, it will also only activate if the battery is above a certain voltage, but the control boards are a common fault. I'm in 2 minds about whether or not to remove it completely, I have heated seats and its not my daily driver.

If you're looking to remove it, let me know. I have a couple of uses for such a thing.

Supposedly depending on your obc can program them to come on at a certain time each day (if outside temp drops below threshold) and run the heater fan so car is nice and warm before you leave for work.

Yeah mine works occasionally, has an intermittent glow plug fault. Think its a dodgy control board.

Does yours have the auxiliary / supplementary diesel burner for heating the coolant? It's behind the left front wheel plastic guard liner usually.