mops

would you have an m20b25 exhaust manifold ?

i have a mate who is a master welder, who will weld it up for me for cheap, while i'll have to pay for materials. but i wouldnt have a clue how to go about designing one...

would you recommend a to-buy one ? there are two types of manifolds for m20b25. single-piece one and dual-piece one. I do know that dual piece ones flipps straight no, no modifications neccesery.

Hello guys. Just researching turbo project. Does anybody know whether m20b25 manifold can be flipped around straight up ? or does that require drillng new holes or even fabricationg complete adaptor ? cheers.

i'm looking for m20b25 exhaust manifold ?

where r u ? how many k's on the motor ? is it the early or late type ? (late typoe has 60-2 tooth wheel on the front of the crank), while early type has two vr sensors in the bellhousing. can i hear it running ?

I already organized one. thanks. mods feel free to delete this thread.

Hello. I'm in process of fitting an aftermarket ECU to my car (MegaSquirt 2 on w e30 325i). I got it to start and run, but timing is off. The car is not drivable in the state, so I’m looking for a timing light that I could borrow for a day in Auckland area. I can pick it up and I’ll return it the next day. Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Mops.

engine conversion alone will be more expensive for me, as I would have to do it professionally, since i dont have skills/tools to do that. so the cost of engine+conversion would be just too much, and that will give me some more horses, and then turbo from there.... easier would be just to buy e36 and do that... Surly, if i had m50 engine on my disposal I'd probably do it... megasquirt, because I'm a hard out DIY, and the full kit costs much less than link (that would have to be proffesionally tubed, most likely on dyno... megasquirt fuel/ignition maps are freely available on the net already (for stock and modded inclugin turbo e30's)... just fine tune from there... and i'll be able to get rid of my AFM ! And laslty, cos I'm after cheap horsepower for my e30, whcich translates to as few, as cheap mods, while still trying to keep it reliable... [edited to correct spelling errors]

I'm gong the turbo way. for now heaps of research is being done.. so far i decided on megasquirt 2 ecu, once i get that up and running (complete replacment of stock motronic ECU), then I'm planning on Holset HX35 turbo on it. I did may calculations, and turbo route seems to be the best value in terms of HP/$$$. I'm expecting for my turbo project to cost me ~ 2-2.5k, BUT my mainfold/exhaust/charge pipes will be essentially free (or few boxes of beers... if I had to pay for it it would be another at least 2k). I'm doing most of my work myself (including custom ECU and tuning), therefore I'm expecting to spend at least good few months on the project. What i like it turbo is you can do it in stages, as time and money allows. I'm expecting engine to eventually stuff itself, and then I'll rebuild it with turbo internals. Re: m30b35 and such other engine conversions... yes, it will give you speed in straight line, but your handling WILL suffer, as m20b25 is already too heavy for e30, not to mention bigger engines... and you will need custom motor/tranny mounts, other several customizations including uprated suspension on the front to handle heavier engine, custom drive shaft, exhaust, etc, etc, etc... if you can weld and have workshop then it *might* be just cheaper than putting a turbo..., but turbo will give you blow off valve, less weight and ultimately more power. IMHO best engien conversion for e30 would be z3 2.8 motor (thats m50 2.8 with alloy block, which is lighter then m3 s14 engine, but 6 pots and more power), but thats if you want to go N/A way, as those engines will not handle boost...

heh, I'm having a big argument with e30tech guys re FI turbo sizes

Hello. Looks like i'll have to rebuild my cylinder head out of my ticking e30 325i. I have an early motronic engine, with compression ratio 9.7, and i'd like to replace it with a later type head, which will give me 8.5:1, as i'm planning a FI project in the near future, so low compression is essential Are there any BMW dismantlers/wreckers, that stock those kind of parts ? buying it form dealer wold cost more than the car's value as well i'd be interested in individual valvetrain components - rocker, valves, etc... Is there anybody who would locally stock performance parts, such as long duration cam shafts, or do i need to import one from US ? Cheers.

I actually did exacly that 2 months ago.e30 and e36 linkage system is exacly the same, so just follow the guide. Make sure you wont break that supporting rod (aka-shift arm) - replacment costs $250 from the dealer and you have to wait 6 weekks to get it shipped from europe. dont ask me how i know..... it is alloy, but i found a workshop in which they welded it for me and its sweet z3 shift leaver from the dealer will set you back $150. my mate cut and welded about 15mm extension below the flurcum, and it works Sweet ass, but i;m telling you try as much as you can (driveshaft clearance permitting). Feels GOOD now mote that if you arrempt to weld original shift leaver, the plactic bushing on the botton will melt away.... dont ask how i know luckily, we fabricated that joint form pure steel (no plastic busing) on a lathe... you will need the nulon cup and the front and rear shift arm bushings.. and those cheap plastic washers. i managed to make a front arm bushing ($50 at the dealer) from two pieces of vinyl tube differnt diameters, one inside anoother. to get to that bushing you WILL have to drop the tranny from it's mounts and undoo aka. "the b**ch clip* now, the rod joint..... you wil have to replace that.. $90 e36 one. requires several washers to adapt to e30 shift rod.... or just get e30 one. as well do do the job peroperly you will need to remove exhaust, few covers under the car and drop driveshaft from it's bearing and disconect it from the tranny. and drop the tranny off it's mounts as i mentioned before... any questions just ask here or pm me

sure... free download on that site. you need to get the older version, not the version 1.0

137kw, what engine was that ?what sorta mods ?

Why on earth they would be heating up throttle body and intake mainfold ???? AFAIK, the cooler the intake air the better.... There are many aftermarket mods for other cars to REDUCE the intake air temps, I can not comprehend why BMW would be purposely be heating up their intake mainfolds/throttle bodies ???????? I mean, whats the point of fitting cold air intake, if the air is purposely heated up later down the intake ??????????? can somebody explain ???

Hello. I just thought I'll share with you on my latest very cool find. This software allows you to producte dyno-line graphs of your engine power output. All you need is a laptop, some wire and two resistors (max $1 at local DSE). As well you will need to know the weight of your car and geat and diffr ratios. First time I read about it I was a bit sceptical, cos those G-meter devieces that are supposed to tell your car's max HP are very inaccurate. However, let me assure you this thing is damn accrate. I get +-2hp variance between runs. Once I filled up my car the reading was 3 hp worse than normal (i forgot to account for extra 40kg's of fuel). Best of all, if you have a laptop (even if you dont have a laptop there are alternative ways of getting data to your stationary PC), you can make as many runs as you want/need, as it does not cost you anything. This software is free, it's a big buggy, but once you get your pickup level calibratred, it works as a charm. Now, this software is NOT a perfect dyno substitute, as the actual max power/torque figure might be off (possibly due to inacurate wiehgt, worn tyres, wind durning a test run) , but it's the high consistency that is very important here. Now you can do some mods/test fuel additives/etc and measure your results next time you are on the street. Screeendump of my latest run... e30, 325iC, stock. I would be pretty keen to see your graphs. If you have E30 325i that was recently dynoed. Even better... next time you are on the dyno - take readyng with street ryno at the same time and compare real results ! I keen to try out that thing on your car, so we can compare [EDIT]: forgot the link doh ! Street Dyno Homepage

Howdy. As a rule of thimb the first performance i do is the brake upgrade. Yes, I do realize that I can go to some reputable place and spend $2k on new oversize calipers, discs, performance pads, etc. I was wondering whether 5 or 7 series calipers would bolt straight in, wihout any mods ? I do realize that I'll have to get new discs (slotted is my preference), to match the bigger calipers (front and back). That would give me a nice braking dynamics Or I could do 5 stud conversion at the same time... Thanks in advance, Mops.

Besides, Where do you get your RedLine MTF from ? Aparently shop called "Revolution" on Penrose has it for about $32.95/litre any other places ??? I'd prefer closer to Auckland CBD ? Cheers. Mops.

Yes, that was an option. I really hate to buy tools for 1 job. I Tell you what.... next time I need to use 17mm Allan key, I'll go and buy one for myself, but I dont think it will be anytime soon. Re. Pipewrench... I dont have one.... Seriously ppl... If I had a way of making a remotely siutable tool that would do the job I would do it with no hesitation.... Another way I thought about would be a bolt with siutable hex hear (I have plenty of them), and two nuts (to counter tighten them, so you can undo that fill/drain plug on theg'box - no welding neccesery and normal spanner/wrench would do the job)... but dont have the nuts that would siut thread on that bolt........

Yeh, i tried the 17mm bolt and i found several I had that would do the job perfectly. However. I could not find a nut that would go on that bolt in my rather limited nut/bolt collection. I dont have a welder either, so welding up a tool was not an option I tried bending the bolt (so I could grab it with a pipe or something), but I snapped off one in half, and the other one i tried I snapped the hex top of. At that point I decided to organize proper tool

Hello. I'm wanting to borrow 17mm Allen key, so I could change oil in my manual tranny on my e30 325i. I could pick/drop off up in auckland area. Replay here or PM. Thanks in advance.

Actually, if it's running slightly warmer, it's most likely your fad fan viscous cluth that is worn therefore the fan does not spin fast enough. You will need to replace that cklutch thing, or better yet, do an electric-fan retro fit (=performance incerase)

Just a quick update on my progress. I'm in process or organizing/fabricating custom adapter for aftermarket oil press/temp gauges. I'll post some info and pics once done.

Hello.Where can i buy red line mtl synthetic tranny/diffr oil ? I need to flush mine. Cheers.