E30-323ti

I'm using a Momo Race and it is heaps better that the M-Tech bus wheel I had!! Rack is still slow as buggery which doesn't help when you need to get to opposite lock real quick, aye Gus!! ps. it's a 350mm

good to see another WGTN person here. What type of manifold are you after!?!? I'd recomend a "log" style manifold for 2 reasons: 1. Ease of construction, thus cheap (esp if you are doing it yourself) 2. Doesn't take up heaps of space, remember the steering column is on that side of the engine bay!! Have you got the turbo, ECU, fuel system sorted??

Here is what I found in the EPC. It didn't list a different part No. for each!?!?! ps. those were for the '85 325i

Have a look on trademe too, there were a few on there. Options: as in Power Window, power mirrors, sunroof, leather/cloth/sport or normal seats, OBC, AC etc...

If I didn't have or want(dunno why) to spend the coin on a M3 a 330ci would be my choice!! They have nice big brakes (always good). Although, a friend has just bought a E39 540i, and I must say it was awesome!! It handled very well considering it's size, went very well, not as well as the E30 though If I had to choose between a 330ci and a 540i, It would be a very hard decision!!

I have never heard of it on M20's, I know M30's are renowed for that exact problem you descibed. The guys in the states to replace the rockers as they are supposed to be a weak link when they do head rebuilds, esp. when running a big cam or high RPM.

Andrew, ///Dave How is the fuel economy with the timing advanced?? Better/Worse/no change???

I think my need for a LSD comes to the top of the list, therefore I'll offer $10 more than any of the others!!

good to hear Andrew, pity dyno's aren't free 'cause it would be good to see where and how much it gained & lost power. Crank it to 25d when you have some avgas for it!!!

There isn't any advantage performance wise really. I got urethane ones because the stock rubber ones aren't strong enough, and they are alot more durable. They will reduce engine movement when you accel or decelerate. At the moment there is quite a violent feeling when you back off suddenly when you've got full boost. But in turn they will increase engine vibration being transfered to the chassis (and driver etc...)

My New Urethane engine mounts from Ireland Engineering arrived yesterday. I'll be doing some SUBFRAME REINFORCEMENT before I put them in. One of the stock engine mounts has sheared in half, I will post a pic when I pull it out. Here is a pic of the new mounts:

I wouldn't pay more than $800-1000, and it should be complete, ie: unplug yours plug the new one in!! But it is a BMW so you never know!!

The tensioner could have failed and then the timing chain could skip a tooth or three... Not good though. Ring around and see if you can find another engine. Specialised in upper hutt had a few E28's last time I was there, BUT, the guy is a complete W@NKER and I'm not going to buy anything of him again!!!

It is a E30 with a E36 M front bumper with an added splitter.

I really like the Dunlop FM 901's, I've got a pair of worn 205/55 R16's on the front of my E30 and they feel great. A friend is running 195/60 R14's on his corolla and he raves about them also. They come in all sizes so everyone can enjoy!! For a good budget performance tyre I don't think you can go past the Nankang EX-601 (for you bottlecap fans), if you shop around you should be able to get them for a little more than $400 set. Never had any dealings with the GT Radials, nice looking tread, have also heard they aren't too flash in the wet Grant. Not sure what pressure to run in the 17's gus, I run 36lbs front and 34lbs rear on my 16's, another friend who has 17's runs 40lbs & 38lbs. Remeber for the track the tyres will get hot so starting of with a lower pressure is always good. I've never bothered because if you take out too much you can't put it back unless someone has a compressor.

No worries Grant, We all know how frustrating it can be trying to get any useful information. My philosophy is "you can never have too many spare wheels/tyres". I've got 3 sets or wheels & tyres, only one of which I can use at the moment, but you never know when you might need them. For example I bought a set of VR-4 wheels for 2packs of cigarettes and then swapped them for a lovely Recaro SR race seat!! Random off topic babling here, but work is bites today!!

I've got a spare set of bottle caps you could buy grant and put some nice Toyo RA1's on them (205/55 R14's) mmmmm. I'd look at some dunlop FM-901's $140ish ea. Or even some Nankang EX-601's $110ish ea. (don't laugh, made by yokohama) Had these as road tyres on my 323gtx and loved them, nice big tread blocks!! Hankook use to do a real nice tyre I think it was a Z2000S nice asymetrical trye, came in 2 compounds race and road. thats my 2c

Still not much use if you have made it to the grass!!Brake bleeding sucks!! Good luck.

The system I was refering to uses a MAP sensor .It used a voltage inversion circuit to invert the output of the MAP to one the same as the AFM.The MAP output at high vacuum is 0 volts & 5 volts at zero vacuum whereas the AFM output at idle is 5 volts & then falls as the flap opens .With the circuit in place between the MAP & ECU the whole thing is ment to operate just like the stock system but with out the restriction of the AFM & with a minimum of tuning to set it up .I dont know if it is still available because I couldnt find it on their web site but I do have a copy of a similar circuit that you can make your self if your handy with a soldering iron It use to be called the AFM Link, and sold for around $5-600 from memory, +install +tuning so came to around $1300 all up. You couldn't adjust any timing with it though and you could only modify the stock ecu's fuel curve, which is fine for NA applications where you only need to tweak it due to lumpier cam etc... but it you bolted on a turbo (andrew) it would be very pressed to provide enough flexibility, that is the prob with piggy back stuff.I think it was used a bit in the US by the E30 M3 guys.

$100 for a complete trailing arm!?!?! Where from?? I got quoted $500 for a E36 compact one, rip off bastards!! Eurospares I think!!

Sounds pretty straight forward Gus. Did you have a look at the rear brake hoses (from the body to the trailing arm)?? As now would be a ggod time to replace them if need be. I hope you have taken some good photos for us!?!?! How much did the new trailing arm set you back?? Was it complete (brakes etc...)???

As we found out on the Urethane bush group buy. If the total is more than $400nz you will have to pay GST (as we did) If the total is more than $1000nz you will have to pay duty (if it is a dutyable item/s, which we didn't thank goodness) Look on the customs website and it has all the duty rates etc...

Just a useless piece of information: A E30 DTM M3 (2.5l S14) puts out around 380hp and lasts about 1500km before it needs a rebuild (if it doesn't blow up first!!). If anyone says they are putting out anything near that (let alone 300KW (400hp)) from a NA M20 of any description there is a big BS flag coming out. In fact, I would think that pushing 300KW from a FI M20 would be a challenge (ie, fully engine rebuild etc... but can & has been done) let alone from a NA Alpina 2.7!! Last time I spoke to Graham Clyde (GAC in Chch) he said they are pushing it to get 300hp from a worked NA M20 in their racecars, and they don't last long!! Let alone be civilized enough to drive on the street!!

By revvy I mean as revvy as a 3.5l 6 can be!! What happened tonight Gus, more sideways attacks on innocent pieces of kerb!?!?!?

I don't think you'd want to use the E30 GB with 315Nm!! Find a 5spd from a E28. The M30 came in a few different forms early ones (E28) had large bores & short strokes (= revvy), but they apparently had probs with HG's in the 2nd & 3rd (E34) variations they had long strokes & smaller bores. The old M30's came in 2.8l also. I think on www.e30.de it has a big speal on the M30 engine, Otherwise I have a link at work to it.