325_driver

So i'm chasing down some rough start issues, and the last remaining error on ISTA is to do with EKPS from my motor swap of a 325i into a 320i I popped off the back right panel to find it, and nothing doesn't even look like any associated wiring should look like this can i safely assume the 320i DOES NOT have one and the 323i, 325i, 330i onwards do

Bit of a stupid one, but never know if anyone has these lying round from an interior swap, and usually people seem to just bin door cards anyway I'm trying to avoid fabricating the speaker bracket on the inside of the e91 rear door cards as I used them on another door card. Any one got any lying round still?

The 320 is now something worth driving. A 325i Filled transmission at temperature Calibrated DSC pump no more DSC and abs lights Cleared check engine Replaced bank 1 post cat o2 sensor Nearly everything bolted back up, ran it to operation temperature no leaks... yet. just got to the odd braces front end, near enough camber/tow on rear end She's quiet and revs cleanly

Fixed it .... So 90% of the issues was that a windows update, had changed my latency from 1 to 16 on cable port settings, making it near impossible for me to talk to modules in INPA giving me all sorts of issues once that was working INPA actually let me into the DSC module, where i could activate / calibrate pump values, yaw sensor and finally clear the error. Bizzare!

it's got to be the SLZ then, which was what i was thinking in saying that, after running the car for a little bit bleeding the coolant and power steering i don't have the vin mis-match one, i've got other ones going on, but i think thats to do with running ISTA not with the car running by memory I've seen these pop up on my other wagon from time to time "no communication" type errors

Can someone please point me in the right direction, hopefully having dealt with this before So i've basically swapped everything over from my donor 325i e90 car into the white e91 320i i'm having issues getting the DSC codes resolved The e91 has a matching - CAS - DME - KEY - DSC - CLUSTER all from the donor car, the error i'm struggling to resolve is 005E1F DSC: Control unit: incorrect vehicle identification number; calibration required 0x005E50: DSC: Steering-angle sensor: serial number; calibration required From what I can see online all i can see is people having to initialize the steering angle sensor to clear those codes, but i'm not having any luck, am I missing anything? ISTA saying something about the DSC having to be encoded after replacement or something Unsure what to do from here, any e90 coding wizzes out there, happy to pay

Got the rear sub frame bolted up, and while i was at it, took all control arms off the donor hubs I got with the 325 axels in them. Came across this haha ... video-1622884653.mp4 Oddly enough none of the suspension components from it looked bent, but i guess a wheel alignment is going to tell when I get this wrapped up I've got plenty of spares for that side, hoping i'm not going to have to replace anything, I really did not enjoy bolting up that hub, got alot quicker at it second time round though i guess.

Didn't really want to go down a pipe join route unless all wrecker options were exhausted, just a preference I guess. One wrecker locally told me they were not going to sell me the line as it was company policy due to safety concerns, some "Facebook marketing manager" I was talking with stone walled me there as she heard the word "brake" and thought I was asking to buy a rubber hose, and I kept trying to explain I was after a metal pipe, haven't been spoken to that obnoxiously in a while. Had a very nice experience with the next wrecker who had some e90s, So big shout out to direct auto dismantlers down in ngongataha who have a surprising amount of cars there. Spotted plenty of e90, e91, E36, even e39 and e46. Definitely worth keeping in mind A Steelie was pushing into the gas tank stopping me from pulling the brake pipe past the gap, so one of the forklift boys made my day even easier haha as the Rhs of the car was already basher up he just flipped the car for me to make it easy as. Was a bit of a laugh. Got everything I need now, time to re assemble

Cant even get them moving using vice grips and pipe spanner. Rust welded together. Here's hoping a pipe join is cheap or I can find another e90 not to far to get it

Dropped the hubs, axels and diff off. Was about to swap in the 325i donor ones, but decided to do the inner brake hoses while I had heaps or room. Its all fun and games until ... That photo is after wire brushing, several rounds of penetration fluid, WD-40. The things are turning yeah, but the lines are well seized to the fitting. So in loosening them I have compromised the line. That photo doesn't do it justice the level they are rusted on. Sure I could of probably just let this fly and re assembled, but a job not done right usually bites me in the ass. So a few more bolts, dropped the entire sub frame off to give me heaps of room. Good excuse for it too since I had a spare rear sub frame with fresh kms and alot better bushings. But yeah, looks like I'm going for a drive tomorrow to rotorua to look at hopefully ripping some of these out of another e90 They relatively cheap through fcp but they only have 1 of the sides. A parts place over here ... quoted me $200 list price plus $100 shipping for the pipe! 2 weeks lead time. Bmw quoted not too bad but... 6-8 weeks lead time! Home stretch anyway. Get this done and Put her back together.

She is alive Totally should straight pipe it or resonator delete. She sounds agressive as hell just with headers only haha e657e58b803d3fa089810f238e9d1bad.0.mp4

She's now a 325. Moving that drive train along gravel takes skills to pay the bills It was all fun and games until I realized the headers had a snapped flange bolt, 2 hours of mc hammer time. 1am on Saturday, signed off on that, most of the time being that stupid Exhaust stud. Monday was bolting the sub frame up and realized engine was an inch infront of the engine mounts, realized that while the transmission support bracket on the 320i and 325i look the same, they are not, bolt holes allow the box to sit back further and engine clear the front of the sub frame. What a mission re aligning that. Had to use a combo of engine support and engine crane to nudge it back. And on gravel, just imagine. Bolting sub frame up took some tounge twisting and cunning tactics. Basically loosely slotted in the control arms and then jacked up the middle to close enough. And then used another jack to push up one of the sides to the hole as the angles are impossible to balance it flat. Fun times tho! Hell of an experience on gravel.

@Jacko haha I remember when I had a black car. Was constantly buffing it.

Tried to make a run for it to complete this motor swap. I saw blue sky so pushed it out side and abort mission My apologies for the rain everyone. How I would kill for a garage let alone a flat surface without gigantic rocks 🤣 Edit *** migrant bmw caravan mode engaged OEM number coming Ain't no rain stopping this train

I saw it as soon as I saw that wiring. Having tripple checking myself the first time I took them off wondering how I'm not going to mix them up. Then I realized the routing made it super obvious Funny though

A funny watch for what the problem ends up being.

That seems to be a right of passage for owning an e46! i did that on my old one, hopefully wont be doing it on my new one! i'll have to do some cruises and photo shoots with you once my one i'm restoring now is done, twin blue coupes!

Sub frame out Those engine support bars are worth their weight in gold. For $100 it is the gift that keeps on giving. She's ready to pull Now I just need to find the person doing a rain dance and tell them to cease immediately

Heaps more room. Half way there to ripping her out Won't be able to complete until next week anyway as I need to have another attempt at the front main seal. Going to have to make a tool to send it in, not buying the OEM tool for it ... Cause o m g $$

N52 front main crank seal press tool? Anyone got one? Stuffed my first front main trying to put it in, as careful as I was.

Fcp delivers again, 6 days from USA including weekend, it's like Christmas. Right on time as I start to pull the n46 as I have all the bits now. Someone needs to stop this rain though. Doing a few gaskets like - rear main / front main - sump - vanos solenoids - eccentric shaft sensor - oil cooler housing

Finally happy with the body is work was looking at rhs with some newly learned technique's casting shadows and sanding it with some longer firmer blocks found a few more areas that were really taking the definition away from the line. Was hard to see in photos but in the flesh it was pretty obvious when you run your eyes over it from different angles. I bit down on the mouth piece and slugged out a few more small filler > primer > guide coat > sanding runs and have got it to something I'm signing off on. Doing it at night is ironically ideal at the moment as the shadows under the line are really apparent and you can sand to better shape it and sharpen it up. I sealed it off with some left over base coat from another car and the proof is in the pudding she is looking Sharp, and also no strange reactions with the remnants of 1k primer I was dealing with so that's a relief. Sure there are some areas that I know about that I know to be slightly off but good luck finding them with the eye once paint is on. One hell of a learning journey for me with body work. Started to clean up the dust everywhere, bonnet is primered for a sand down, and I'm moving onto the rest of the car now which is just sand down with 400 grit as I've delt to all dents.

Seems that way * copied from https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf when compared with the OE engine, the replacement engine:  is of the same or less cubic capacity; and  has equal or less weight; and  uses the same fuel (petrol, diesel, LPG, CNG); and  uses the same unmodified attachment points and system (i.e. bolts-in); and  uses the same family of block and cylinder head from the same vehicle manufacturer; and the block has the same number of cylinders arranged in the same configuration; and the cylinder head(s) has the same number of valves and camshafts; and  the total power or torque increase, including any minor modifications, is no more than 20% over the OE engine specification

Put what I'm hoping to be the last guide coat / test spray. Shadows and lighting so close to perfection, trying to figure out if it's near enough or my eyes making up things on it haha To paint or not to paint? Anyone got a coupe in tauranga I can eye up to compare 😂😂

Been a while busy fixing some complicated panel damage on the missus car when she had a date with a tow bar and the e91 I picked up, had a major pain in the ass moment, some 1k primer that I thought was removed decided to cause major issues in places and primer was cracking in areas. Good thing I left it for a while for this to reveal it's self. So took some time sanding back and essentially redoing a major chunk of those quarter panels. Any way worked out for the best having re visiting it with fresh eyes I realized that rear right hand side just wasn't symetrical when comparing to the lhs or compared to the kink depth on doors. I've learned how to cast shadows to guide the sanding path and feather that curve nicely So provided no unexpected delamination appears, body work is officially done Going to probably seal it with some left over base coat for good measure and have it outside to eye up panels. But yeah final sand down inbound and disasembly mode. Hoping weather keeps hot, don't like painting with Cold weather.