Eagle

Sealed spherical bushings are better in just about everyway compared to poly usually bar cost. Otherwise it's solid/HD rubber for me. Like @Olafhinted at people go from worn old rubber to poly. New rubber firms things up well enough. If it twists then lube maintenance is required at some point also. Subframe bushings are the probably the only place i mainly used to use poly because it's set and forget and easy to install. I don't like the bright colors most of them use either but that's me

Spherical bushings on trailing arms arms and hub along with and poly or solid subframe mounts make a big difference in rear end control, but can a bit harsh over sharp bumps in road with low profile tyres not helping.

I'd just stick to fresh rubber and enjoy it.

Doesn't even have a wof so who knows. Not sure why the owner doesn't get one?

I would add the nipple caps on the back on the manifold too, 2 smaller ones and a bigger one. Always seem to be cracked to some degree. Can be done later but very easy with it completely off.

Yeah clean end of threads too along with fluid. If they feel like they are binding up when loosening then work them back and forward with more fluid . If still that doesn't work then heat them up with gas torch. No reason for snapping if you aren't forcing them tbh. Wire brush and clean threads then put some anti seize when reinstalling and they will come off easy in the future.

Yeah really don't need fuel and air orings since you don't have to remove either of them but upto you. Oil dipstick is the main one as above.

I'd do the ccv system then monitor oil usage before other mods.

The OE mounts generally last a very long time in my experience and rarely truly fail unless they get oil leaking on them. I just replace them because they are very cheap ($10-15ea) and im in the area. Yeah i guess you could say poly is better, but to me i just dont see the need for them and they cost more?

Very good deal for someone that doesnt have most of these. 

What's the big puller in the middle blue container used on? if you dont mind me asking

Doing the CCV without manifold removal isnt too bad if you have done it before. but as above id take it off and do the pipes at the same time.   

Only negatives using poly transmission mounts for the average car.

May as well inspect and lube to starter motor if its unknown condition

Exhaust gasket for the manifold downpipes and new 4x copper nuts

New lock nuts for flex disc depending on where you ordering from 

Gearbox selector shaft seal (the one the usually leaks)

You can do the driveshaft center sleeve bushing if you wanted , but id probably skip it and just lube it up if in good condition (usually is if the guibo hasn't failed)  

Guibo is easy to source though going by that part number

A classic status would be good but the whole 6\12 month WOF was always a load of crap, aged very poorly too. They should of extended it or just kept it the same.

2000-2010 era cars are the worse for WOF failures in my experience, cheapish to buy and have 12 month WOF, people drive them no cares given to the next WOF and end up with big list. Pre '00 are better as they tend to be looked after more\still on the road and get the 6 month checks. 

Sold

Basically brand new. Bought for my E36 but it doesn't work for various reasons.

Includes the new genuine plastic bearing

$160 shipped

Guessing its a sedan? If so its not really worth anything besides scrap value

Nice, ive never seen one in white. Its too bad the N42 was such a rubbish engine compared to the M44\M42. Im converting my Ti to manual in the weekend but i like the M44 too much to put a M5X in it.

You can measure it up easy enough and pick the best wheel\tire option. Not sure what E60's are like but i run a full size front wheel\tire in 225/40/18 as a spare in my E46. It was optioned with the 126/80R17 space saver. Raises the boot floor slightly (~5mm) but not enough to impact anything. You could glue feet to the boot lining and space it out anyway if you really wanted.

8 hours ago, overly__under__engineered said:

that's not a workshop manual. it's just some useless pages about nothing.

You think there are only 3 pages in a workshop manual that tell you how to rebuild the engine?

• 11 Engine (N46)
  • 1 SI Master Document For Emissions Test Nominal Values All Series Up To 2003
  • 2 SI BMW Quality Longlife-04 All
  • 3 SI Complaints Concerning Engine_clutch_transmission (dowels Missing) All Vehicles

do you even see something basic on those pages, like changing the alternator belt? haha. mate. come on...

www.newtis.info is right. I can walk into Toyota, Mitsubishi or any other vehicle company and get the info I need. I've been doing it for decades... but not BMW.

As above you didn't look hard enough. Most of the engine rebuild instructions are there including replacing an alternator belt

Its still a 12V system using a small light so doubt it anything complex. Im assuming its just a 2 pin plug going into the light? Unlikely need a wiring diagram. 

As above, you just want to check you have voltage at the positive wire on the plug (presumably around 12V when brake applied). Then do a continuity check from the ground wire on the plug (probably brown) to a good ground (negative battery terminal since its in the boot). 

4 hours ago, SmithyInWelly said:

Funny - I'm soon to buy a cheap runaround for $5-6k and saw a few 130i's had popped up around Wgtn... but there's no such thing as a free (or cheap) lunch; and certainly not when it comes to BMW's - nor other Euro's.

Applies to any used vehicle really. Euros may cost more in general but it's vehicle specific. IMO the E36 318ti is the cheapest BMW to buy and keep on the road.

9 hours ago, ecko_complex said:

You think the dealer would replace them at a cost of 40 dollarydoos

If these threads are anything to go by car dealers never replace any worn trim pieces it seems. Along with the big markup you get a wash, vacuum, silicon spray and maybe some sort of paint correction if you lucky.

Yeah no doubt, still a fair bit of work though. Every manual swap ive done (E36,E39,E46's) owes me 3.5-5k when refreshing parts. If you got the car and kit cheap then it probably makes sense. Most manual conversions tend to be missing bits for the more OCD peeps, so i prefer buying the more costly complete wreck.

To be fair his conversion kits tend to be priced a bit higher than average private seller being a business in all. Not sure what they are really worth but imagine the demand is much lower than the older stuff. Surely its way easier and cheaper to buy a manual one in the first place than convert it (at this point in time).

Mileage is steady and appears to have had decent life being 1 owner and imported in NZ early on. K's mean very little in regards to engine health but you'd do the relevant tests on it anyway. Suspension is stuffed on most old BMW's regardless so you'd likely be replacing most of it if not already done.

Looks like @hybrid's car

Shame they aint higher offset. Finding nice 18's that dont cost thousands in 30's and 40's offset is hard.   

You have to be desperate to go to all the effort of removing the dash to replace it with that garbage.