Yuen

Looking good! The wheels work well and perfect drop.

Hey Charlie, am assuming you have already got your box, but if you want to make the install clean and retain a decent amount of boot space, you can make a box that's more of a rectangular shape (designed with the ideal volume) so it makes the most of the horizontal space at the inside end of the boot, while still being deep enough for the sub. If your car hasn't had the ski pass hole punched out, you can do so... the rectangular box can then be attached using nuts and bolts going through the sheet metal behind the seats into the boot area. You'll want to test it out first though if you don't have an armrest for the back seats, to see if enough bass goes through into the cabin. If you go with this you can also make a false wall so the sub can't be seen.

Bummer, we are going to lose our resident E39 electronics expert! Good luck wherever you are going Jochen, assuming it's for good?

Not many on this forum and certainly not me!

Yeah glad some benefit came out of removing the wheel and putting it back on! Going to have to feel the newfound response sometime.

My pump just died one day out of the blue, replaced it with a new one and all good again. You might want to get a new washer if you get a new one, sometimes the old one doesn't work well after being taken off, and leaks.

Some I found: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-E30-Service-Manu...0/dp/0837603250 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E30-Ben...1QQcmdZViewItem Am sure you can find more sellers.

Gerry, last I saw they were available on Amazon, eBay will have them too. Good luck.

That's a pretty high price. There are some people on here who have done it for less. I think $300 GST included would be about right, and you should be able to get it done for less. I did mine myself but would not try again, just not worth my effort. Get an expert to do it right, worth the $. For what it's worth, the glue is still holding up and it's been almost 3 years. The glue I used was 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive, it cost me around $27 per can at the time. To do the headliner, I believe I used 2-3 cans. People have tried using 3M 77 spray adhesive, that one does not hold for long. If you are a fan of the black M-Tech/M3 headlining and pillars, use this opportunity to do so. I am against the staple gun method, it will show... just not my thing.

LOL congrats, I'm quite a long way from 600.

Agreed, would be a better use of cash if you had to spend it. If you're thinking of going with a different kit in the future, just do the suspension first and after you get your kit, paint it. The current wheels look fine.

Don't be fooled, 320i will not have better fuel consumption than the 325i, I have a early 1992 model year E36 320i with the M50 engine (no VANOS) and its mileage was not as good as a friend's 1994 325i (both auto). The M50B20 is underpowered for the weight of the E36 IMO, if you go 320i you may as well go with 318i for the better fuel economy of 4 cylinders - the acceleration of the 320i will be similar to the 318i. Unless you're set on a 6 cylinder, of course... the 6 sounds better than the 4. So if you're comparing 320i vs 325i, go with 325i. If you're open to the later models (1995 production year and later) which have the M52 engines, 323i (which is a 2.5L) and 328i will be good choices. There also made a M52 version of the 320i which I assume will be better than the M50 320i. The 323i is definitely a nice car to drive around in, the M52 has more torque down low and it is quite effortless to drive. The 328i will just be an even more powerful version of that. The 323i is a de-tuned 2.5L and has the same exhaust system as a M52 320i, therefore some power can be had by de-restricting the exhaust. As for pre-96 and post-96... in 1996 (or 1995 production year) the M52 engines were introduced. No changes in the exterior of the car, but 1997 was the facelift year and some cars came with clear lights, different steering wheel (3 spoke), sideskirts, sleeker side indicators, and a different nosepanel and front grills. As far as I've seen, there are also no 1997+ cars with unpainted bumpers. If you are buying one from around 1992, few things to note: 1992 had no airbag, they started from 1993 onwards. Also pre-92 and early-92 had a different front suspension from post-92. You can change them to the post-92 style but it will cost more in parts. So if you are planning to put in an aftermarket suspension, try to buy above 1993 to maximise your options down the road, with that you also get an airbag. Also, believe the digital climate controls that are found in later E36s were introduced in 1996.

If you're going to have just one manual, it should be the Bentley.

Welcome to the board Gerry, I have got the same book but for the E36, didn't know they had one for E30.

FWIW, the 'hard stops' method that I used were after I replaced all rotors and also put new Axxis (PBR) Ultimate pads on.

Absolutely gorgeous car mate!

Welcome to the board ASC = Automatic Stability Control. http://users.cybercity.dk/~bbo2530/Private/traction.htm

I think they did well by making the front look like the coupe. Better than going with the sedan front. It's great that they released a sedan M3 this time, practicality and power, I love it.

That's not the reserve

Awesome. Thanks for the info.

When I did my brakes I did it the 'high-speed hard braking' method. It turned out fine. But I just found this instead: http://www.pagidusa.com/bedding_in_procedure.htm Try that, I guess... Pagid should know their stuff.

Fantastic, I take it this requires reprogramming to get it to recognise the camera? Or does it do it automatically once you hook the wires up? Jochen you are making E39s a more attractive buy.

Yup, sounds like you are going to have to spend a bit of money soon...

Hi Patrick, the E36 328i has the same thing, so I think the one on your car works the same way. There is a vacuum hose attached to the exhaust flap, when the car goes past a certain RPM, the flap will open. From what I've read, it's there to increase low-end torque (more backpressure at lower RPMs) and also keeps the exhaust quieter at lower RPMs.

Awesome, will definitely have to go down there soon!