Yuen

We need more pics of your car, interior and exterior!

There is one on TradeMe.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-89136891.htm

No, not including installation - but installation is really simple so you can do it yourself Pop 4 nuts off each tail light and pull, 1 screw off each sidemarker (if it's the old ones which I have), and slide it off and pull. For front corners, remove the bulb connectors, then pry the clip to give you enough room, and pull. OBC is the onboard computer, also known as check control. The thing right above the sunglass holder in your E36. A simple way to see what tail lights you need is to go to your tail lights, pull the connector off, and see how many pins it has. Basically the replacement tail light should have the same amount of pins. The aftermarket clears commonly sold on TradeMe would probably have instructions for you to cut a bridge on the tails if your car does/does not have OBC. At least that's the case with the ones I've seen, they are quite universal. However do note aftermarket front corners are more crystal looking, they look cheap (I have a pair). I fixed mine by smoking them with VHT NiteShade.

FYI, a full set of clears costs $600+ at the dealer. There are 2 types of clears, one for cars with OBC, one for cars without. For cars with OBC, there will be 8 pins on the connector, for cars without, 7 pins. After that it's just down to whether your car is a sedan or coupe. In which case the tail lights and front corners will be different. Then, if you're pre-97, you'll have the older style sidemarkers with the black plastic border (tails and corners remain the same). Post-97 will be the smaller newer type.

Cheers Ron, It's a bit odd though, when I lowered the car, the rear had no visible difference in ride height (just like stock), but the front dropped quite a bit but the drop was still less than what it was on Dnz's coupe (I got the springs off him). If that's the case then how would I explain the negative camber that appeared in the rear after lowering? The front shows no signs of uneven tire wear. Could the front being dropped somehow cause extra negative camber in the rear? Or perhaps the springs aren't the right ones for the rear? The car is on sports springs so I really have no idea why it would cause excessive camber. Just remembered I got the data sheet from the last alignment: Rear Axle Camber Left: -2°45' Right: -1°44' Toe Left: +2,4mm Right: +2,7mm After adjustment: Camber Left: -2°29' Right: -1°55' Toe Left: +1,8mm Right: +3,4mm Front Axle Camber Left: -1°38' Right: -1°20' Toe Left: +9,7mm Right: +25,8mm After adjustment: Camber Left: -1°43' Right: -1°07' Toe Left: +1,7mm Right: +1,8mm

Hey all, I'd just like to confirm that the rear camber on E36s is adjustable, although the front isn't? My rear tyres have worn out on the inside and it's time to get new tyres. This happened after lowering the car on OE Motorsport springs on Bilstein shocks. If so, I should get the alignment shop to adjust it for more positive camber, correct? Btw - does anyone know if 94 Motorsport springs can be fitted to a 91/8 E36 or not, as that's what my setup is now, and occasionally I read something along the lines that they do not work together, but I've been running it for a year. Just wondering if it's optimal.

One of mine were real tight last time, had to push the screwdriver onto it and turn really hard, eventually it budged. I think it's just a matter of torque.

I thought M50 and M52s could swap transmissions? Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

A subject of much debate! Tried to find some more info for you: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#16 "The direction of the slots or hole pattern should not be used to determine what side of the vehicle to place a rotor. Different manufacturers may have different strategies for slot and hole patterns. The only correct way to determine what side a directional rotor goes on is the internal vane direction. " http://www.buybrakes.com/brembo/faq.html#q28 "Which direction should the discs rotate? It is a popular misconception that the slots or drillings in a disc determine the direction of rotation. In truth, for an internally vented disc, the geometry of the vanes dictates the direction of rotation. There are three vane types in use: 1. Straight 2. Pillar vane (comprised of many small posts) 3. Curved vane The first two vane types are non-directional, and can be used on either side of the vehicle. The curved vane disc, however, is directional. A curved vane disc must be installed with the vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation. Please see figure. Orienting the disc in the manner creates a centrifugal pump. The rotation of the disc causes air to be pumped from the center of the disc, through the vanes, and out through the outside diameter of the disc. This greatly enhances the disc's ability to dissipate heat. Additionally, all of Brembo's slotted discs are directional as well, regardless of the vane geometry. The discs should be installed such that the end of the slot nearest the outer edge of the disc contacts the pad first. Please see figure."

http://209.85.165.104/search?q=cache:WaAsw...;cd=1&gl=us

Congrats on the car, it looks great! As you said, some work needed, but for 4 grand, I bet some of us would have wanted it as well It's a pretty tidy example and I love the Mtech kit on E30s.

Join the club Andy Good news, not 200k, maybe 160-170?

What a nutter, LOL.

Yup, no difference in the engine. Motorsport ones are lower, have the M3 kit and a nicer interior.

No points for guessing right. http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46087

"the easiest way to verify correct usage is to install the rotors on the side of the vehicle that results in the end of the slot nearest the outer edge of the rotor always contacting the brake pads first." Taken from: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?...t+Slotted+Rotor So it sounds to me like B.

Do you mean the ones on Germanplates.com but with the NZ decals?

Nope, met Dennis today and he said he's not selling it for now.

Coupes definitely look more sporty, it's got a more low slung shape. E36 sedans have a bigger ass and look a bit more cumbersome than their coupe counterparts... but a done up E36 sedan can look damn good and is rarer than a done up coupe.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=1420 Brembo are OEM for many cars as well so I don't think they'd be inferior to ATE.

True, now that you mention it, I think my E36 has ATE calipers. I got 4 Brembo rotors, full set of 4 pads, and 2 brake sensors from the USA and it came up to $500+ NZD after shipping. I did take the 'cheap' shipping method, 9 weeks to arrive and cost me $99 USD. Racebrakes quoted me $100 + GST per Brembo rotor. They also have cheaper Roadhouse branded rotors for $80 + GST per rotor. This is for the E36, I'm not sure which car you're getting that for.

Why ATE? I know Racebrakes can get Brembo - they aren't that cheap though.

Welcome! Love the car, seen it before on bimmerforums

Hey yalden, thought your nick looked familiar. Seen your car on BFC, love it, especially the front lip. That's a nice list of mods!