Neal
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Posts posted by Neal
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Trimit.co.nz
Seen some of there jobs on custom bike seats. I'd say they would be more than up for the job.
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You may have already cover these areas but I'd check the following
The alarm should be connected to a constant power rail , not an ignition circuit that drops after sleep mode.
Does the alarm module rely on some kind of rechargeable battery that has failed that keeps the memory running (like cmos batteries on PC motherboards of yester year)
What remotes are you using , bmw factory or aftermarket alarm ( Clown noise is infrared btw ) Depending on remote you might be running infrared or 433mhz radio
Are you using a factory or after market alarm ?
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The second diagram that's been floating around the internet is for a late 2002 and on manufacture date of the BM54 which was when the aux feature was added. It was futher enhanced later on to understand cd text and mp3 Id tags when the stacker appeared on the scene .
It is possible to take the inputs board from a later broken bm54 and re - soldier it into an existing one to gain aux. one of the roms can also be re flashed to gain mp3 tag support. However , it's not an easy DIY and I'd go Denison bt lite for aux and bt support .
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I have similar issues to Paul , often get the full beam flash from oncoming drivers and the single finger stalute sometimes when passing. The factory e46 has quite a pronounced lift on the left.
However , these are the best headlights I've driven with including some of my older cars with 100 watt spots .
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M3's have half the tyre well deleted so the exhaust can fit up under the rear apron behind the bumper. I doubt it would fit without extensive modding.
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I'd be inclined to re-seat the tuner connector and the amp connector before going any further. Both are located in the boot on the passenger side. Either of these connectors can cause downstream issues such as what your having. (More likely tuner module which does source switching , video switching and provides video screen with essential signals)
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So parts of it is sounding to be an upspec model then , Noticed the 92/94 style Sports wheel and the 3 way door cards.
Dyno should prove 276 cam.
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From memory 550 kg unbraked / 1200 braked. Had one on my 325i . Got mine fitted via the dealer. Was a tidy locally built job.
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Nice looking car ! , If you do go black I'd go with gloss / shadow chrome to match the trim.
In terms of seats the lumber bag can be retrofitted with what looks like largely bolt in. Hardest part appears to be cutting a tidy hole in the area where the control switch fits. Seen these s/hand on ebay from time to time.
Stereo wise , check www.bavsound.com for drop in options. A lot can be said for drop in components (trust me , saves lots of time). Otherwise I'd be inclined to just swap the tweeter and 6x9 subs and still run the HK mids and mid bass.
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Has anyone run a square setup on their M3 ?
Seems that running 265 s on all corners is a popular bmw cc USA auto cross setup,
I've got a spare set of rear factory 18s and was thinking about trying it.
Another consideration for width is grove percentage per tyre width, thats one thing I like about the current re11s is there is less total grove width that many other performance tyres . Basically more rubber on the road yet they still have good wet weather performance .
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Changed from 225 / 255 combo to 235 / 265 combo. Dropped the profile by 5 on front and back to retain rolling radius.
Did this for no other reason than more tyre on the road and it's the standard widths for the CSL.
Only issue is the recommended rim sizes for the tyre is 8.5 & 9.5 inches respectively. I'm running 8&9 respectively .The reality is I'm not getting any abnormal tyre wear and no issues with tyre rubbing.
Handling wise the only noticeable difference has been grip. But I suspect this is down to tyre choice rather than width.
Mate was running 10 inch rears with a 275 / 19/ something on the rears. Filled the arches nicely but did have slight rubbing with rear passengers in car
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The usb functions across the iphone range are almost the same so the standard apple lighting to 30 pin adaptor will mean it will function the same way. (Supports usb audio /audio control / data / charging)
Some of the earlier stereo systems and ipod adaptors used the firewire interface in the 30 pin connector of the older devices. Firewire interface and charging was dropped from the iphone 4 on but you can either get a 30 pin to 30 pin charging adaptor or in your case use a apple lightning to 30 pin adaptor.
However , if your after video from the lightning adaptor then you'll need one of the apple adaptors as analog video chipset has been dropped since iphone 5.
Current choices are vga or hdmi adaptors which actually have the video chipset inside the adaptor
With IOS 7 apple have introduced Carplay which is a new interface between factory car systems and the iphone. I'd expect this to start appearing on higher end aftermarket units soon.
http://www.cnet.com/news/apple-carplay-to-bring-iphone-experience-to-your-next-cars-dashboard/
Hope this background helps.
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Cheers Paul. It's taken me a long time. it's been hard to get time on weekends to work on it.
Will be interested when you start your audio install.
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TJ
if you do end up rebuilding the bottom end of your current engine then it's in good hands with Taylor. They are well known in the motorsport arena for being one of the top in the country. They've done a fantastic job on the bottom end of my turbo mini block.
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Not to mention shells exit from the NZ market
It's the recommended oil for Ducati as well but you can't get the good stuff here.
Will be interesting to see what BMW NZ will do.
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Matter of time for this kind of thing. Have model railway stuff from the 60's and 70's from childhood and found some of it commands silly money by collectors.
store it for another 20 years and make sure you keep the boxes
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Started work on mounting the 3sixty.1 electronic crossover and source selector. One the base tune is done the unit can be controlled and configured via Bluetooth on the netbook.
The factory amp has been removed and the space will be taken by the 3sixty. The Amp was also acted as a brace for the equipment rack so a bracket was modified to take it's place.
The old Japan Telephone module bracket looked about the right size.
The bracket was trimmed down, rivnuts added and sixty was mounted at roughly 45 degrees to allow room for audio interconnects.
The angle here was important so that the interconnects can fit without obstructing the boot corner tray that the amps will be mounted on
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I think you could be right. I modelled the mid bass and looked best between 2 - 2.5 litres if put in an enclosure. I'm just loathed to cut the inner doors on the M3 and suspect the total area of the door will be too large. Will check with RTA later on but with 130mm drivers it's hard to get punchy lower mid bass.
I connected up a home hifi amp and ran the speakers up and compared the fronts to the backs. Wasn't a huge difference but the mid bass did sound better at the back where it has the whole boot to vent into. However , been a while since I'd heard PPi's and they are sounding good and a substantial setup from factory 10 speaker hifi.
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What's the issue with the current unit ? If it's a 2001 you should be able to change the language to English and the Tuner to Oceania and remove the band expander.
http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/6327-how-to-reprogram-jap-bmw-radio-to-nz-frequencies/
For BT stick with the Board and get a Dension BT lite gateway. It connects in line with your CD stacker and gives usb , 3.5mm and BT streaming. streaming. Comes with Mic so will also do hands free with control via Boardmonitor.
http://www.dension.com/product/gateway-lite-bt-gbl3xxx Needs to be ordered with optional CD stacker retention kit.
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Did any gtr's make it to NZ ?
Saw a couple in the uk but they were track cars .
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Used wds to confirm what your tapping into. ibus is always live as well. Tap into this about 8 or 9 module that control various car functions will play up. Also uses yellow as one of its colour identities
Cig lighter is a good source as is glove box torch if your after medium & low current sources.
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Some tyre companies will offer this when selling tyres. The wife's e36 328's dunlops had this thrown in.
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My 2002 e46 has the same setup and uses infra red rather than the 433 MHz wireless diamond keys.
Check out the video and all should work. Note the three remote presses stage to sync the car / remote
http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/46255-e46-remote-not-working/?p=501828
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Another extreme is go the full hog on Craig Davies products.
Modify the factory water pump(s) by taking impeller out. Fit thermostat bypasses.Go electric and pick a pump with adjustable flow (e.g water to slow = over heating , water too fast means radiator has too little time to transfer heat out of water= overheating, just right means maximum cooling for a given temperature setting) http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-content.aspx
Add a controller for fine temp control of water with pump speed regulation. http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Controller_and_Switches-content.aspx
Add a push / pull arrangement with two electric fans or run viscous plus electric
Add a turbo timer or ignition off delay timer into the cooling circuit to cool engine after switch off for a predetermined time ( e.g 6-10 minutes) This should get the heat down and protect the battery from going flat from the cooling circuit.
have been thinking of this type of setup for my turbo mini.
E46 M3
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I'd look at this being a lowish km M3 with about $8k plus of well chosen aftermarket parts.
Those apex rims weight next to nothing.