Neal
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Posts posted by Neal
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I used to run 235/40r18 and 265/35r18 ps4s on my e46 m3. Would get mine via tire rack.com and brought about 4 sets of tyres for the e46 from them. Prices imported were similar to nz prices. I think I just needed to register for importing goods more than $1k.
It’s a good alround combo. Hardly ever got traction light flashing. Found the rears would last no more than 40,000 kms.
scroll down to ps4s.
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On 5/27/2025 at 4:39 PM, HELLBM said:H Shantelle,
Andrew and Ollie are pretty much hands off these days. i`ve been giving thought to reviving some of our events, namely the Dyno Day`s we used to have. Would be great to amp up the Bimmersport site and facebook Page. Give us a call sometime to discuss.
Thanks Ray Hellbm
Drove from Wgtn to Auckland for one of those Dyno days. Great fun ! ( e46 m3 day )
Would be interested is seeing how an s55 with stock and GTS tunes does 😀-
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Thats looking great !
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1 hour ago, deedub said:Just noticed that my coolant reservoir cap on my 98 E36 318is has a 1.4 bar cap. Checked real oem and it should be 2.0 bar. Trying to understand if there's a reason PO would intentionally replace with lower pressure cap. May have just been the best option available.
Lower pressure could also be a result of the 90s e30 cap recall. There was concerns around pressure build up and scolding an unsuspecting owner.This one was for m20s and I remember being sent a new cap for my 84 323i
https://bmwtechinfo.bmwgroup.com/sib_attachments/B170293.pdf and
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Probably a 20 -30k install in its day. Looking like Alpine F1 components, IE scanspeak made speakers. Seen those at $1200 usd a pair second hand not that long ago. That system is very much top end alpine stuff from the day.
Other than the soft top , great platform of excellent 3 way front stage. Still has kick panel mid bass position which is great compared with door locations.-
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Speaking of 80s still have some Alpine gear. Few amps and equalisers from my e21 install circa 88. And have this set which is NIB from early 80s
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Almost , but air intake to low on those.
Needs to be a e90 m3 with bonnet level intakes to make it through that
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M2 looks great with the M decals.Welcome to s55 ownership!
Neither thought you’d replace the e36!
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On 4/4/2025 at 8:18 PM, Karter16 said:Torrential rain yesterday and today so I can't do any work on my retaining wall at home. Got round to a little job I've been wanting to do for a while. The trim around the SMG shifter boot makes an annoying plastic on plastic creak sometimes when shifting, which isn't particularly pleasant from a driving experience point of view.
Today I took the trim apart and used some tesa tape to insulate the clips and mating surfaces. I also gave everything a good clean while I had it apart. Put it back together and the squeaks are completely gone (unless I press very hard directly on the plastic trim), shifting is now a satisfying mechanical click, rather than the annoying creaking sound it could be before.
Cool fix to sort rattles. Also good on door card clip mounts 😀
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There’s also the odd single din unit with carplay / android auto. At the pricey there is the Porsche high end single din , at the other end there are a number of headless CP AA units on AliExpress
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Very cool and welcome. F80 is phenomenal car… but I might be a bit biased on that 😀
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7 hours ago, balancerider said:Ooh very cool @Neal - I always wondered if the dealer could do an official region change on the VO, my cruise control reading in MPH when everything else is in KPH is irritating. As I understand it on the F3x would need a new kombi as well.
Not so sure about that one , same challenge with my cruise control with mine also having a UK VO. All roads lead to a replacement cluster. Got to remember setting it for 62 mph rather than 100 😀
But it would certainly solve the default Map location as well rather than asking dealer for a manual download of NZ/Aus. Also stop BMW UK dealers asking if I’d like to have car serviced.
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On the Speed Limit Detection retrofit using the process earlier my car has since been in for a service in the last week. As a result the 8TH option is now showing as an official factory option. I did a online BMW vin lookup today so no chance of it being wiped during any future servicing 😀
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Great you see the positive out of it with how the medical team worked to stabilise you. There are some phenomenal people that fix us up when we get broken.
One of those life events, happy to have survived …. But fu$k, that was a bit close.
Speedy and progressive recovery.
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On 11/26/2024 at 10:00 PM, Driftit said:Non car things over the weekend. Small bikes instead. Massive amount of fun.
Syds Run 2024 in Christchurch. A charity run for leukemia in the name of the guy who started this event. Syd.
560 odd scooters and small CC bikes. I've been two years in a row now. Syds 100th Birthday (RIP) would have been next year. They reckon there is going to well over 600 bikes this time.
Buy a sh*t bike, chuck on your battle jacket and join the fun. Live your Pest Life.
I have a 1978 Yamaha Chappy LB80 which is a laugh.Know what you mean with small bikes. Wife had a bucket bike when I met her. Basically a cheap low cc bike for organised car park racing. Don’t need to be doing 737 take off speeds to have a good time 😀
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Other way round do it is to get something like an AVSS type thin walled high temp insulated wire and twist it together. It won’t take up as much room in the door connector garter. It was a tight fit from what I remembered .
eg. Automotive Wires AVSS 24 22 20 18 16 14 13AWG Speaker Audio Cable OFC Oxygen-free Copper Thin PVC Insulation Car Wire
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0jAYWX -
13 hours ago, Olaf said:Brief question @Neal - speaker cable guage you used that passes through the connector, please? 16g?
I think so , was a Jaycar speaker wire. 79x 0.2 strand.
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Your thinking and logic is good. I have my 8s doing most of the bass range as they do it well and articulate the bass lines nicely with a reasonable amount of authority.
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Your thinking and logic is good. I have my 8s doing most of the bass range as they do it well and articulate the bass lines nicely with a reasonable amount of authority.
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That’s looking good. Good combo of specs and ideal sealed box sub. 11mm one way xmax spec good too. If you compare to the focal that one really wants to be in an infinite baffle set up rather than a sealed box.
With the dual voice coils you could go the other way with a 1 ohm parallel load depending on sub amplifier. More recently there seems to be a number of class D amps that are 1ohm stable. You just do the old I R / V ohms law and work out maximum current and then wire gauge that’s suited. But I suspect 2mm2 will be more than large enough at your target power levels.With the depth also allow room for the rear vent. If the gap is too small the sub won’t preform as well as it could. Think of it as additional spring loading if it’s too close to the back wall.
One trick you can do with the enclosure is to stuff it. Has the effect of making the enclosure 20% larger to the sub if you are tight on volume.If you can fit it looking like an excellent choice.
At the high end price wise ( JL audio ) I’d skip that and use a stereo integrity bm11 . Similar box size requirements and shallow depth. Bass wouldn’t be as tight as alpine but can go down to 20hz with 0.4 box and 3 inch depth.
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See if you can find one with a qtc of around 0.5 which in a sealed box should be around 0.7 qts . Best combo of response and low end imho. Cabin gain will help bring up the sub bass region below 50hz can be anywhere between +6 - +10 db. Your plan for back corner are ideal as usually will play +3db louder than other locations . Important when running an 8.
With QTS value if you haven’t already picked up on it a value of 0.5 is very tight bass but not so good on extension , 0.7 considered the best combo of rhythm and low end extension. 1.0 and above is considered boomy and flabby bass, but ok for hip hop genre where the overhang can work quite well.
There is quite a good online simulator for TS modelling of speaker response for a given speaker Loudspeaker database.
And cabin gain can be modelled via a tab in REW if your interested In going that far.https://www.roomeqwizard.com/
Edit, had forgotten about winSD modelling software, worth a look. https://www.subwoofer-builder.com/WinISD.htm
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Score,
Decent poly capacitor on the tweeter and good power handling, tweeter on a gimbal so you can align them better in relation to front.
.Looks like a quality coaxial speaker.
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Tidied rear armrest wiring and put all trim back into place.
Tested USB C adapter with iPhone 16 which is USB C. Charging came up straight away . Phone also came up as USB entry on snapin adapter. Turned off CarPlay and tested , USB audio and Spotify app via USB c adapter , all working correctly. Charging is faster too via USB c adapter. 15 watts so more useful.
So now I can run my 256gig thumb drive with quite a few lossless encoded albums off the usb b , Anything lossless audio wise on the iPhone can be played via usb c, handy for Apple Music lossless. Otherwise wifi CarPlay for anything else.
Parts used.
Fusebox leaf connectors for fuse Area 124-129
2x 61131378906 Double leaf spring contact 0,5-1,0 MM²
Earth Comb connectors
2x Socket terminal 61131387142 0,75-1,0MM²
F30/F80 larger Earth Comb and Cover
1x BMW Insulation Housing, Fan Conn - 61138364551
1x BMW Comb Type Connector - 61138353739
USB C adaptor and Lighting connector socket pins
4x 61131393724 Socket terminal MQS 0,5-0,75MM²
Connectors , the secondhand USB C adapter came with connectors and USB and power connectors.
Wire , 0.5mm2 for Power and ground needed. 0.3mm2 for lighting wire.-
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Ran loom through car using factory route.
Was out of earth points behind left rear seat bolster so added the larger earth comb that is used in BMW F3x and F8x . Suspect it’s for models with more factory option. I found the earth sockets seem to be a one way item so rather than taking them off a sandwiched the two combs together and added two earth connections after crimping on BMW connectors.
Routed two 12 +ve cables to fuse box. Turned fuse box over and removed lock tab and pulled connector for fuse area 124 - 129. This section is associated with Idrive items such as hk amp fan , dvd stacker , tv module , telephone cradle , usb hub ( fuse 129 ) . Crimped on two new leaf contacts and click inserted into positions 124 & 129. Put connector and fuse box back into place. Ironically those fuse positions had fuses even though the car didnt those options. This fuse block run off terminal 30b so is power runs when the car is occupied. Power is tuned off when car is locked or after 8-20 mins if car is left unlocked such as when left in garage. So no worries about parasitic draw.
The USB C has a backlight on pin 3 of its connector. The closest source for a light circuit is the rear console armrest led bunker light. The connector for it is behind the rear seat air vent trim. Used a pin removal tool on mqs socket. Crimped a new one with positive feed to USB c adapter.
Karter16's E46 M3 Journal
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With the csl widths the other ones I considered as Bridgestone Re71 and Yoko ad08 with has been superseded by the ad09 . These are street legal semi-slicks that don’t mind wet days.. They are higher dry grip option. Best tyre combo I had on e46 m3 was the Bridgestone re11. Really good on driver days on the track and better than the PSS and PS4S I ran after. Re11 were replaced by re71s.
Only issue was with Bridgestone nz it was going to be an order and wait process so I went with another set of PS4s. I briefly had ps5 on the front of the f80. They are a bit smoother and quieter than PS4s with a nice steering response. A bit less road feel. Didn’t get to explore front end grip though.