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Neal

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Posts posted by Neal


  1. also loose gal . ( automatic stereo volume increase / decrease based on speed) Ike Nav display directions , speed warning ( eg 104 kmh) to name a few

    By the looks of the N6 you'll gain audio quality ( op amps are superior to circa 2000 studio quality opamps used in old system) , more recent apps , better mordern smart phone Intergration, better bluetooth , better id3 tag support for tack name etc.

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  2. With the AC double check the door clips around mid bass. If these aren't in good condition it can be a source rattles. You want the Oem type ones with the rubber washer for best results. Other thing to check is that your aftermarket crossovers haven't come loose. I mounted mine with hot glue without keying the inside of the door car plastic. They came loose after a couple of months.


  3. Decent sub firing through a ski pass setup works well. Needs to be baffled to reduce the energy in the boot. You end up with rattle free clean bass and don't need too much power. Getting good mid bass out of the door card mounting is a different story without cutting holes.

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  4. From the hundred lot of people doing photos, I've found merely one proper shot of the ECC lot. And that was only because it was requested.

    People tell me there is no divided line between JDM/American and Euro, but it was proven by 99% of photographers there, ignoring our cars pointblank. When you see an album of 650 photos pop up on Facebook of the day, you sort of hope it might of ended in there, like the 250 others cars that were shot, sh*t box or not.

    Yeah I understand it was Euros in the wrong scene, but we were invited and told to come along as it was open to all grade cars. Meh.

    And this is why I started Euro Specific events, and next time the JDM bunch cry and wine about how they are left out, will remind them of our sour experience at an event told to be aimed at 'all' makes, yeah right.

    The whole photo shoot on speed hunters is by the former editor of ithe somewhat dubiously titled magazine called "New Zealand Performance car" Should really be labelled JDM, Drift and 323 mag. It's been quite boring for over a decade now and this is from someone that use to own 13b powered Mazdas.

    Next time you show your cars rig in a dummy 250 mm turbo as a p1ss take and wack 5 degrees plus of chamber on every corner.


  5. Had similar challenges when I tidied up the pervious owner of my cars nav Mk 4 retrofit. Brought the factory loom and the audio for the factory TV tuner audio stopped working. Both the retrofit guide and WDS weren't clear on which pins the nav audio and TV audio connect to if you have both. Worked it out in the end after I bounced it here for help.

    The Ulf / Jbit2 replacement guide that hybrid ? did on here was great as well. Used it for the basis of my e46 install which has different colours in parts of the loom.


  6. Was kind of thinking how headlights improvements have been quite marked over the last few decades. I compare the mighty candle power of my Mk1 mini headlights to the xenons in the E46 M3. Even a set of period Cibee's or Lucas 20/20 spotlights struggle in terms of night lighting.

    And then there is the taillights .......

    These new lights would be hard to miss and the indicators make up on ground lost by the hard to see white lens jobs that appeared mid 90's.

    I reckon bring it on.


  7. Once you've confirmed dogs balls suggestions Id be incline to run a direct line from the Ulf pin 33 to tel on pin 11 on bm54. I wouldn't expect to see this signal high with ignition off and no call up.

    Suspect the operation is different on your old tuner module.

    The only item in your current setup that would make use of the speed signal (assuming wheel pulse or speed averaged signal) is the MK4 navy unit. Even then its optional as the nav computer calculates average speed based on differential of GPS readings.

    The old eject box can also be a source for tel on signal. Do you still have the old handset connected


  8. Yes, Tel on, the bit2 / jbit / ulf will keep the signal high for as long as a call is in progress regardless of ignition state.

    Aftermarket Bluetooth / iPhone devices use the same method .

    This in turn leaves the bm54 on which in turn leaves the factory amp and aerial amp on.

    I'd eliminate this as a source of your issue by measuring the voltage on pin 11 on the bm square connector. If this drops after ignition off the it's not your issue.

    Also check pin 16 (ACC) to insure that the voltage drops after ignition off.

    Either of this two pins will leave the system on if voltage is present.


  9. We dont have the dilemma of rear airbags of the wife's car but was reading about Vovlo that recommended disabling the side airbags next to the capsule. They even have window stickers as a reminder as to which air bags have been disabled.

    Really comes down to the seat design in my opinion. My daughters car seat would protect her from a side airbag going off.


  10. Sound jumping around sounds like speed dependent volume setting on the head unit. I noticed mine doing this when I coded the telephone module in my own car. Suspect it can be coded out on your current head unit.

    Edit It's the GAL setting on your radio. You can change it via the hu

    http://www.bmwsections.com/info/radio-settings.php

    In my experience when modifying my tuner for RCA output the factory tuners and cd player has a very average balanced output stage. This is the main source of the loss of clarity. taking the feeds straight after the opamps yields better results but needs a LOC to drop the DC from the signal.

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