Neal

11 hours ago, Olaf said:

awesome.

[edit] - could this be a great opportunity for me to pick up an affordable e46 M3?  Surely    there'll be many displaced by carefully sourced GR Yaris....

I heard Toyota did bring some in - all pre-sold.

A work colleagues one was delivered a couple of weeks back.The NZ ones got all the optional extras as well at no extra cost. The strength of these cars is corners and loose tarmac. Basically developed by the factory and a top rally team. Very impressive small engined car. 
 

They should have used SMG with launch control and less torque limiting delay on gear change than with the manuals.
 

Cheers for that.

Just checked and have V1 version, phew

These ones very manual rather offer style. Can be spoilt pinned as well

Laughing as just found this thread again.

Another fav band from the 80s

On 3/1/2021 at 4:42 PM, m325i said:

Good point. I wouldn't consider buying an MK20 car. 03.5+ doesn't matter to me though. (Mine is MK60 but pre 03.5). 

But that blue does make people thirsty, no doubt about that. 

Does the mk60 so much when the DSC is off ?  Or is it a bit of a safety net.

personally mk20 settings perfect for road and I tend to turn DSC off on the track as it retards second gear corner exits too much.  Mdiff is quite fun on Taupo short track without the interference of DSC.

Personally I’m pleased for the old owners to see a car that’s obviously been looked after and driven go for a leading market price.
The only think I’d tyre kick is the front rotors and put them back to BMW spec ones next cycle. A very minor thing in the scheme of things.

On 2/16/2021 at 4:21 PM, leichtbau said:

Did some digging on the LSB hard tops, further to what @M3_Power said; 2x NZ new cars, 2x Japan cars, one of which was the 14th ever E46 M3 produced - a 08/2000 build pre-production example, and another 2x cars that might have had a "respray."

Think the rarest colours in NZ would have to be the sole Oxford Green example (RIP) and the Estoril Blue one.

One of those LSB met its demise when it went from  Wgtn to Auckland a few years back . Owner of the time struggled to get miid $30s.  But it was another immaculate example .

Yesterday’s price is what I paid for my M3 in 2011 when it had 48,000 km on the clock. Great to see the value coming back on theses and hopefully the same happens with the boring colours like

mine.
 

52 minutes ago, 3pedals said:

 You can do it with the parcel shelf in situ, just pop the speaker grills off and slide the spacers in and then drill the hole as per above - same as an E36 

That would work if your not doing middle position. From memory the foam that sits on the parcel shelf and deck is pre cut. Would just need to lift the section out . It would be tight though.

The isofix bracket sits in the foam section rectangle at the back in this picture the bracket has a claw that fits into a small hole and then uses a cap screw to fasten.

I’ve done the retro fit on my e46 M3 a number of years ago. I originally brought the brackets of trademe but it was minus the covers. I ended up ordering the retrofit kit via BMW NZ dealer.

install is straight forward. Worst part for me was carefully cutting the parcel  shelf.

Other than that it does take time to remove the rear parcel shelf on a e46. Rear seat side bolsters need removing and. C pillar trims and then top half of rear set before you can start removing the clips holding on the shelf . Then headrests and speaker covers

Just seen this video on another thread .😬

Cringe worthy

On 12/25/2020 at 11:56 PM, zero said:

Great info there Neal.

I looked up the harness guy and it doesn't look like he makes anything for e46?

Am I missing something?

He did start with building the e46 / e39 connectors so worth an email. It might be possible that bmw carried the amp connector into the next models.

Below is the harness / adapter 

btw , if looking at Morel check out parts-express.  They sell the individual drivers with good discounts. Some models have great off axis response which is important on the drivers side speakers.

https://www.parts-express.com/brand/morel/121

On 12/23/2016 at 7:08 AM, Olaf said:

okay, so I'm doing 70-80kms each day (round trip) for my commute; spending so much time in the car, I'm thinking some improved audio would make my daily grind better.  I'll lay out some context and objectives, before we get into objectives.

1.  Audio.  I listen to music.  I used to be an audiophile.  I'm more a 'flat earther' - the whole Linn/Naim thing from the 70's/80's that focuses on PRaT (Pace, Rythmn, and Timing)... and I continue to decry this BS notion of "soundstage" on the basis its not reall experienced in the studio (it's manufactured), rarely encountered live (sound reinforcement, baby), and is usually delivered by HiFi systems that are rythmically challenged (e.g. the Bass Player is about to fall asleep, he's so far out of time with the drummer you're thinking he's taken a mandrax, whilst the rythmn guitarist is on speed)... yes I run a Naim Audio system at home, still spin my records on a Linn LP12, and favour headphones by AKG and Beyer Dynamic.     

Conclusion?  Don't give me typical Japanese Audio with cut-glass highs and slow plodding over-blown one-note bass.  I want TIMING, TIMING, TIMING, I want fast, tuneful bass, I wasnt it musical, baby.  I honestly think most ICE enthusiasts have never heard truly good hifi, and rarely listen to live music.  

I am not looking for a disco in my car!

I like the approach Neal has taken to his M3; I just don't have the committment to go that far!  I'm not sure I'm going to need electronic x-overs and stuff.

2.  The car.  

• The factory head unit stays.  This is a constraint.  I realise - and recognise Source First (Garbage in, Garbage out) - that this is a constraint.  I also like the integration - auto volume etc - and one day I may even  get a sports steering wheel with integrated controls!
• My car lives on the street - it must be stealth.  I will not sacrifice trunk space and utility for a sub box.  Any sub must be small, tight, tuneful - either mounted in the side panel, or abover the space saver spare in the trunk floor.  I realise with a small box it probably constrains me to a small driver; this is a compromise I can live with.  My sub must not be lagging behind the music; it's about sound reinforcement, not SPL sound-offs.  
• I'd like to have iPhone integration (lightning or bluetooth); I can sacrifice the CD changer for this.  Oh, and no visible or irreversible hacks to the interior; this should be removable.  I listen to FM and CD's.  Being able to play from my phone and or spotify would be good.
• It must be removable/reversible.  It may cost a bit for this kit, so it should be able to go with me.  I doubt that a flash audio system adds $$ to the value of your car, just helps it sell to the right buyer.

3.  The work:  I'm past massive fabrication work.  I don't mind the idea of building a custom-fit sub box, but speaker pods and all that malarky, no thanks.  I'm impressed by what others do, I'm sticking to 'simple'.  Some dynamat in key places to quiet things down/stiffen things up:  yes, by all means!

4.  What am I thinking?  new 2-way component speakers in the front, an amp, and a sub.  I read this from Audio-file In Car, UK and thought "I know the Audio File from my time in UK, they did Naim and real british HiFi... this is probably a good approach to music in the car" (as opposed to screechy in-car entertainment)... I don't know which iPhone integration box to use.  So as a base kit list (doesn't seem cheap - can I do similar and still avoid awful screechy out of time ICE for less money:

- Front speakers:  Focal 165 VRS (shallow mount component speakers)

- Amp: JL Audio XD500/3

- Sub:  some kind of small sub in a custom enclosure. (did I say must be fast, tuneful, no one-note bass)

- other:  iPhone integration unit.

- other: ability to add a streaming source later - perhaps phone controlled?

- other: what if I want to amp-up the other speakers later? And possibly improve the speakers in the rear doors and the load area?

As you can see, the kit above ain't cheap.  Perhaps there's a shallow-mount 6.5" component speaker solution from Focal or Boston Acoustics that will much of this for half the price?  The amp looks like a great solution; is there something less expensive that's nearly as good?

I'm just starting out on this, it'll take me a while to suss out.  Cabling - I'd rather do it once... I guess the amp will sit beneath the comms deck in the boot, forward of the spare wheel well, behind the rear seat, like this (with thanks to Neil Mukerji).  Mine is basically empty, being a Japan-spec '02 325i Touring.  I'm thinking there'll be plenty of new cabling to be done, and a good strong power feed and earth for a new amp?

As you can see, I've a lot to consider, and a bit to catch up on.  I want to keep it simple, and am aware I'm compromising a bit wit hthe constraints I've chosen.  

The journey begins.

 

for minimising speaker and HU cabling have a  look at technics bmw harnesses . The guy reverse engineered the quad lock connector that sits in the amp . So basically his connector has rca and speaker wire hanging off it which means you can fit a small form factor amp in its place with minimal wiring effort so you can leave the cabin alone..

If your up for class D then heat is of little worry and 60wx4 rms will only need 8 gauge power and earth makking the battery run easy.

The bmw e46 has a good gauge of wire on the mid bass speakers so no need to add fav 12 /14 gauge ofc. 

Sub,.  As part of your research in terms of space . iB subs have come back to fashion  and require minimal room . But also consider running passive radiators as the boxes end up small and there is no port noise.

As a consideration iIm looking in a boom box project for the daughter using a Tan Ban w5  sub. Basically it only needs 20cm cube and can play down to the high 30hz.  Q can be changed a bit by adding washers to its passive radiators . 
https://toidsdiyaudio.com/2020/02/06/mini-earthquake-an-8-cube-of-bass/

Just doing a renewal on  insurance for my E46 M3. It’s a 2002 SMG with almost every option and sits at 175k. It’s had BMW servicing since I brought i48k.

Insurance company suggests $28k but I suspect it should be mid to high 30s

What are others insuring theirE46  M3s for ?

Goodnight

3 hours ago, Herbmiester said:

M135i 140l etc are suitably quick, probably faster than the E46 M3 especially if they have had a tune. Not the collectability of course but a nice daily all the same.

I think you’d be right , more hp and torque form the later especially and far more refinement.
Issue with a daily is that Id end up with an m3 , a Motorsport project and a track day motorcycle limited edition motorcycle  and probably would have to make some hard choices with parting with one of them.

Not a bad problem to have but probably like many a classic bmw in great condition will come along and challenge status quo.

I had conti sports contacts on the front of my e46 m3  . Size was 225 /45 R18 on a 8 inch front.

On the e46 they had the best front steering and great feel. I’ve since run 235 fronts in Bridgestone re11 and Michelin PSS and whilst these have more grip the turn in and feel imho was better with the conti.

Worth  putting on your list and in 17inch friendly sizes 

I’m kinda caught, had a e46 m3 for last 9 years, no idea what I’d replace it with other than getting another low km one.  
 

I’ve deliberately avoided f80 m3s as suspect a drive would  lead to a Mpulse decision to buy.

I ran yokos 509s in 195/65/14 on my e30 323i years back. They are an old design but were the best of the many tires I had in the 270,000 kms  I drove it.

6 hours ago, gjm said:

Tyres for Mrs M's Baur 325. (1990 E30 325.)

Been looking around and stock sizes - 195/65-14 - aren't as commonly available as they might have been a few years ago. I'll probably take a look at a Bridgestone offer but as we only need 2, that's not necessarily ideal either.

Thinking either Kumho KH27, or Hankook K415. $130-170 per tyre depending on source.

Any views either way?

 

Edit: Bridgestone are offering Ecopias at $161 fitted, but no special offer. Current 'Buy 1 get 1 half price' and similar deals are only for specific models of tyre.

Beaurepaires are offering buy 3, get 1 free, on the Goodyear Assurance TripleMax 2 at $150 per tyre, but plus $26.20 per rim for fitting.

Hyperdrive are offering 50% off with  discount code.

However, by the time you're finished with all the faffing about, there's little to choose between suppliers when it comes to the same model of tyre.

5 hours ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

Pretty sure the factory bluetooth module for an E46 (if fitted, which is again in the boot) has a connector like those.

It’s similar as in quadlock pin system but connector is larger and terminates with the boot.

Dogballs post is on the money.

Seems stuff via Asia is taking around 3 weeks. Ordered some essential service items for work with expedited shipping. We’d normal get this type of kit in 4-5 days. Different orders have taken 3 weeks. Part of the issue is NZ, some courier yards have become gridlocked with items beyond the warehouse and sitting in shipping containers waiting on the backlog to clear. NZ post has record volume levels as well.

i think getting items quickly out of lockdown countries will be problematic for a while as with NZ returning to normal

Sorry you did say you’d got the kenwood. Time alignment made a big difference in my system. Easier to centre music.  With the kenwood what about running a USB ( if it has a rear one) to an ashtray dock)  Location works well for hand free calls. 

Below if for iPhone but easy to put a phone cable instead 

https://www.instructables.com/id/Ashtray-iPhoneiPod-Dock/

amp mounting works well on the side of the boot. I’d be worried about underseat as I ran my alpine front amp that way. The power cable became shorted out by feet of rear passenger. There was a bit of smoke as a result. Since that I’ve only done boot installs and made sure power areas into amps are well protected. 4 gauge is good for a dangerous 120amps before a typical slow blow fuse will go.

The early alpine stuff can easily overwhelm the factory alternator / electrics which is what I found with a multi amped setup in an e30.People are into 80/90s class ab nostalgia but I found that my old high end PG amps (e36 system) that the likes of modern sound stream ( Philip board actually) had similar sound quality at 1/3 red the price.

Reminds me  I still have my amps and equaliser from my late 80s system. Reminds me that I should sell these at some stage.

Modern amps so much better, psu’s  are far more efficient and they have every kind of protection and modern smd components means the old days of matching components is almost gone in relation to car audio. Anyway , this stuff is IMHO.

I like your idea of running active up front. Just put a capacitor across the tweeter to protect it from accidents in tuning or setting crossovers.

It the unit has speaker out only open it up and mod it. Grab the audio stage after the OPamps or preamp transistors and put some RCAs out the back . Should give you a cleaner audio section and get the best out of those tdk90s which from memory handed the heat better than maxwells and did a reasonable transfer.

Speaker choice is a very personal thing and knowing your standards nothing really to add other than if I were to replace mine and one lotto I’d put Focal utopias into mine. With Angs CX-5 I’m looking to put https://stereointegrity.com/product/tm65-6-5-woofer/ and matching tweeter in. This brand is one guy who designs speakers with amazing mechanical abilities which punch well above there price tag and a few top end comp Hilfi cars are running these.

Power wise looks like your heading to towards 4 gauge cables for the amp(s) Amp power on could be as simple as connecting to your power antenna . Just check the operation of the head unit to ensure antenna stays up in tape mode.

This was the brand of distribution block that I showed you. Nice as small profile. Might have got mine via trade me.

http://www.tspeconline.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5

sub wise I’ve go a box calculator bass box pro so if you find the sub too boomy we could design a box with a bass q more to your liking. Could build something that bolts up to the ski pass area and punch out the panel. Bass will fire straight thought back seat cushion on e30s.

other thing I did on my e30 was put the biggest battery that would fit in the front (mine was 323i)

Other thing to consider is doing the big three which is to put a larger gauge alternator charging wire and bigger earth cable. Helps with electric stress and light dimming if pounding the system.

For the rears speakersI run mine at -30db compared to front. I still feed mine with a 100rms but head unit ( warning , running head unit amp for rears can cause ground loops sometimes)  or a micro class d amp.

Sub wise go class D simply to give the car electrics an easier time. My current combo of 4x100 ab with 1x600d doesn’t kill the charging system and battery voltage in the way my 4x25rms  (cough) PG amp with bridge rear channels run sub did. ( mind you that amp peaked at 95 amps at 13.8volts) so someone was lying about its modest power output.

8 hours ago, shuey said:

Normal 98?

No , was 98 blend. The station concerned went back to selling 96

1 hour ago, shuey said:

Are you saying Mobil is an ethanol blend?

The local Mobil did advertise the 98 as a  ethanol blend. Was written on the pump. I think they sell both but I no longer use the brand..

i did try running my e46 m3 on it. It seem to engine knock more than normal 98 so I stopped using it. That was before I discovered the issue with the bike.

ive since learnt that Ducati still recommend that you don’t use it on bikes. It was causing the plastic fuel tanks to bulge and swell.

BMW saying ok to use after certain dates but I’ve lost trust in it. 

The good thing for myself was my bike no longer started which I thought was just stale fuel. I might have ended up with high pressure fuel being sprayed over my lower body and engine exhaust headers. Could have got very nasty quickly.

9 hours ago, Driftit said:

My race car has been sitting stored with E10 in its tank for 4 years.

Planned to drain and replace all fluids.  But I wonder if it will be ok.

Get it out now. Check all lines before using car in anger. Alternatively take it for a ride on guy fawkes 

Ran Mobil 98 in. Car and bike for a few years.

Didnt ride the bike much and had in the tank too long. Tried to start bike ( Ducati 748r) no go.

left it for a few months more and then got dealer to pick up.

basically fuel lines had turned to a snot / marshmallow substance, fuel pump fckd , sender stuffed. Basically $1400 in parts.

i won’t use ethanol blends again.