wrs

For a while now my drivers door handle is struggling to open the door and sometimes won't (has to be opened from the inside). It's likely worn out. I'm not sure if there's different types of handles between 92-99 but I need something to suit a 2/92 car. Is it possible to swap the lock barrels over between handle assemblies?

I purchased these only a week or so ago from SpeedFactor and installed them yesterday. They we marketed as similar to the OE mounts with only a slight increase in noise level (even rang SpeedFactor to check if they would be suitable). Bzzzttt, wrong - they couple every bit of vibration, shake, wobble and transmission noise into the cabin. It's worse than having no carpet. They might work better if the engine mounts were changed at the same time. I've changed back to OE gearbox mounts today and the car is nice and quiet again. Likely would best suit a racecar. I don't want to toss them so they're free to whoever wants them - just pay the freight cost of $11.00 for NZ Couriers E20 bag + $1.50 for a residential ticket if not a business address. Only thing missing from them is the flat washers as I pinched them to use on the OE ones. See Trademe Auction for details: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/other/listing-2678003020.htm?rsqid=bc379d6323674d49a4c26e9987045d75-002

I should have added a bit more info about the opening profile: On the original 88'C TStat it began to open at 94.5'C and opened up about 0.5mm and sat at that gap. As the temperature was very slowly increased up to 97'C it opened up more and was fairly linear with the temperature change. It appears thermostats have a fairly linear region where they go from 0-100% open over several degrees of temperature change. It makes sense that they do this as it allows the cooling flow to match the load with a relatively small temperature change. The 88'C TStat above was an OE from the local BMW parts dept...

I guess the answer is to decide who you want to do the cert and talk to them about the requirements before doing anything. I used a local workshop with a long history of preparing cars for passing first time. They had a good relationship with the guy doing the cert and between us we coordinated the requirements. The hoops didn't cost much to do and they're good piece of mind. Depending on who does the cert and how they interpret the standards will depend what you need to do. In Hawkes Bay we're not spoiled for choice when it comes to getting certs...

Has anyone ever measured when a coolant thermostat actually opens and closes? Engine M50B30 (219kW), radiator A1 Radiators 50mm core, fan delete, electric fan set to come on at 93'C with 1' hysteresis, switched by Link ECU. I'd been chasing the reason for my engine running at 95-98'C all the time even though it has a 88'C thermostat. If the thermostat opened at 88'C while driving with good airflow (especially in winter) the engine temp should sit round 88-90'C. However, it's always been 7'C too high. Today I took the thermostat out of the engine and did a boil-up test to see where it opened. It did not open at 88'C. In fact it wasn't until it reached 94.5'C for around 15 seconds that it began to open. Interestingly it didn't close again until 88'C. I had a couple of 80'C thermostats on the shelf so did some tests on these too. One opened at 84'C, the other at 85'C. Both closed at 80'C. So I put the 80'C in the car and did some more testing. The engine now sits between 88-90'C when cruising and peaks at around 92'C under heavy load. At idle the temperature rises to 93'C then the electric fan comes on until the ETC drops to 92'C then the fan switches off. The temperature then drops down further to about 90'C then slowly rises back to 93'C and the cycle repeats. I have a link ECU and can monitor the exact engine coolant temperature while the engine is running. I've also previously removed the temperature sensor and characterised it so the ECU could be calibrated using a Cal Table to get ECT within ±1'C across the whole measurement range. Is it normal for a thermostat to open several degrees higher than it's rating but close at its rating?

In my case the cert guy said - it's not the original auto driveshaft and it doesn't matter if it's OE, it has to have hoops. It may depend on the certifier but maybe it's also a recent change in the rules. I just did what I had to to get the cert plate!

You might get away with it - I didn't. I did a manual conversion about 5 years ago and been getting warrant fine through vtnz since then - until the last one. They finally picked up it was a manual now and was originally an auto. They made me get it cert'd... If you need to get it cert'd you'll also need driveshaft hoop(s). The cert guy wouldn't even look at it until the hoops were in even though every part on the car was OE and there was no cutting, welding or modification. You'll also need a cert if you touch/change the brake pedal assembly (which has to be changed to a manual one for manual conversion).

Yep, should have mentioned that - good call. Most catch cans have a simple in/out with no decent baffling to help make the oil drop out of suspension. The inlet and outlet tube are often very small requiring modification to make them a decent size. My favorite would by a good cyclone that drains into a catch can - then any old catch can will do as the cyclone is doing all the work and will do a much better job than most if not all catch cans (except maybe a custom build). This means the catch can has to be mounted fairly low to let gravity do its job so it could be difficult to get to to empty. I've even got one you can have if you like? If a cyclone is used there's two places it could be installed: 1. Connected in series with the existing ccv system as close as possible to where the tube comes off the head. All tubes should be big diameter to reduce clogging and slope downhill to aid the glupe draining towards the catch can. You might have to drain the catch can quite regularly it will catch oil and water. This has the advantage of reducing the clogging of the OE ccv system and probably extending its life. 2. Connected in series with the return pipe to the inlet manifold. This will only reduce the oiling into the manifold but will likely mean the can doesn't need to be drained as often. Not sure which would be the easiest to fit on your engine.

Love this statement ?

I really like the purple rack though, it's been an excellent upgrade and highly recommend it.

Tried TM badges twice - both fell apart within 6 months. I now only use the genuine ones which last >5 years. Overall have found it cheaper to go OE...

I have a M50 hybrid engine with M50/M52/M54 bits on it. When I first installed the engine I just used a catch can because it was the easiest solution at the time. There was always an oily smell and it leaked oil on the drive. Recently I fitted the M52 CCV system so I now have a mild vacuum. I've made the cyclone/pressure regulator really easy to access so it can be replaced when it fails. The difference is amazing - no more oily smell and no oil leaks on the drive anymore. With a catch can the crankcase will be pressurized in order to push the gasses out. This tends to push oil out anywhere it can. If you have your windows down you'll also often get a strong whiff of crankcase gases as you pull up to a stop and sometimes under deceleration at low speeds. Maybe a better option is to keep the existing CCV but add additional oil separation, maybe another cyclonic separator from a V8?

The issue is only with my car and possibly only because I've had it for so long. I've never had issues with other cars. I used to travel a lot for work to many different countries (out of NZ for > 6months of the year for 7 years). I was hiring >30 rental cars in a year (US, China, South Korea, Europe, NZ, Aus). It's interesting how driving a huge range of different cars has never caused a problem in either LHD or RHD yet I have the issue with my own car. I actually turned too much again yesterday and into my own street, a corner I've turned hundreds of times in the past. However, I clearly recall thinking about an exhaust mod I wanted to make so was distracted and not concentrating on the turn at all. Maybe I need a new/different car...

Well, it actually took less than 5 minutes to get used to it before becoming 'normal'? However, even after a year I occasionally turn too quickly when my mind is on something else - when 18 year old turn memory kicks in by accident (you know, like shaking a bad habit). Maybe I need to be more clear in my posts somehow..............

I'm likely not driving on auto-pilot when in a foreign car. Also, the average car doesn't launch as quickly so more time to correct. I drive the same car (mine) most of the time and seldom drive other cars. The issue with over-turning only happens occasionally when I'm distracted and subconsciously revert to many years of "turn memory".

Put one in about a year ago and it's great. Having owned the car for 18 years my automatic "turn memory" needed to be adjusted. It took a long time to adjust and I had to look carefully when going round corners so I didn't go up the curb. If I was watching traffic and start turning when begining move I'd sometime get much closer to the curb than I liked - just something to be weary of until you get used to it.

Update time: Did a bit of a refresh of the Vanos + finally got round to fixing up all the errors made on the initial build. I got a donor Vanos and sent it to Dr Vanos to be rebuilt - they did a nice job. This was installed earlier in the week but the engine felt quite different and didn't seem right afterwards with flat spots where the cams switch and overall it felt sluggish. Looking at the photo's we took of the cam positions before taking the Vanos off and fitting the cam blocks it was clear the inlet cam was quite retarded compared to where it should have been. This was corrected when re-installed. I decided not to drive the car much until the tune was checked. With no MAF and oxy sensors the ECU couldn't do anything to correct what might have been wrong. The Link ECU tune I have is non-adaptive and uses just TPS, MAP, ECT and IAT so is fixed and can't adjust to any external changes. Yesterday a slot became available on the dyno today so I fitted the bigger injectors that should have been fitted originally (pink top). I also fitted a modified throttle body with 22% bigger cross-section. The intake duct was increased from 76mm to 100mm and the airbox modified to a proper 100mm diameter outlet tube and trumpet. I then sent it of for a re-tune. It was well worth it. The bigger inlet tube did not add any extra noise. Below is the dyno chart with the before and after curves. Before 263.5hp/313.5Nm, after 297.8hp/343Nm. So, I'm pretty happy with the result. The Vanos is also nice an quiet again which is another bonus.

No, iron block. Was originally a M50B25nv. Now a M50B30 (M54B30 guts) with Vanos and US S50 cams. Using the nv head with Vanos installed for stronger valves and double valve springs. I will consider taking the head off but if this has to happen the engine will also come apart to increase compression ratio. May as well go full-hog if I have to go that far...

Thanks, as expected. Sump is off but trying to avoid taking off the head for no good reason. If the rail is still in good shape will leave it in. If not then will revisit taking off the head. Have all new gaskets etc (except for a head gasket kit).

Does anyone know; is it possible to replace the M50/M52 lower timing chain guide (RH one that engages with the tensioner) without removing the head? We have the cover off but it looks like it's going to be impossible to remove/replace the guide rail because there's no way to get it off the pivot pin due to the top going through the head and not enough room to lift/tip it over to clear. Is it possible to pull the pivot pin out (unscrew, extract) or is the only possibility removing the head? I have the aluminum type guide on the engine and an aluminum type guide to replace it with. I'm guessing we'll have to leave the old guide as-is if it's not too badly worn.

Oooh, M3 struts - have they got the brake calipers on them?

I've got some without the hubs from a 92 325i, early type. They're free if you want them - just freight cost. They're left over from a B12 kit install.

Thanks, lower inertia than I'd expected. Explains why it chatters like a .... Not only does it chatter at idle it also makes quite a strong meshing sound under low-medium loads under 3000rpm and sounds like it has rocks in it when going slow in 1st or 2nd gear. It chatters when cold or hot at idle but is much worse when hot. It's possibly worse on the S6S420G box too - doesn't it have bigger gears and bigger clearances than the 5 speed which makes it a lot more notchy? However, it revs like crazy which I quite like.

I'd be very interested since I have the flywheel... As before, my combo is the D1 flywheel with standard M3 Sachs clutch and pressure plate. It would be interesting to see how it stacks up. It's not something I put any research into before rushing out to buy, however, seeing this thread suggests I should have paid more attention to making a potentially better choice. My engine is coming out on Monday next week to do all timing chains and rails/guides, leaking sump gasket, front and rear crank seals and new oil pump with locknut. If the D1 flywheel isn't all that good then I have the chance to correct it. If it is ok I'll leave it as-is. I have been considering going back to dual-mass to get rid of the chatter but I'm sure if I did I'd miss the fast rev pickup in 1st & 2nd.

Here's a drawing of the ledge that worked for me - save's you the time making a template...