jochen

The only reason they want to put it in the boot is that is where the CD changer cable ends and that makes it easier for them (just plug it in). They are going to use the existing CD changer cables (there are two: one with power and ibus, the other with audio signals). The ICE-LINK needs 12V power, ibus, and ground, as well as the audio signals. If you are willing to cut into the cables, you can fit the icelink anywhere you like 12V, ground, and ibus can be found in many many locations in the car The audio in (L, R + Gnd) is in the Cd changer cable. You could cut into the CD changer cable to get access to these connections, and probably is easiest to do this right behind the head unit Removing the head unit on an E39 is really simple when you know how, bloody dificult if you don't. :-) I have full wiring diagrams and pinouts, let me know if you need anything

I saw what was for sale.That is just the display and keyboard and tape deck. You will also need: Nav computer (not a ex-Japan one!) TV tuner (optional) CD changer (optional, can use existing if you have one) Amp (can use existing if present) Radio tuner GPS antenna Retro-fit wiring loom Brackets nuts bolts etc I've seen complete fits selling for around $3,000 to $4,000 NZD You might be able to get it as cheap as $2,500 if you shop around and be patient If all the parts are present, you can complete the install in a day. But that's probably pushing it a bit. Make it a weekend to be sure. Then you need to update the GM and SA code for your car as well. Jochen

Martin came to my house tonight and together we fixed his stereo problems in his car. Diagnosed the problem to a speaker wire short to ground on the rear left speaker. We were amazed that we actually found the problem so quickly - the speaker wire had been chaffing against a bolt just under and in front of the LH rear speaker. Cut and soldered the wires back together, and insulated with heat-shrink, and now the stereo works on all speakers, front and rear. This shows what a robust design the Business RDS stereo is - even with a speaker wire short which has probably been there for a long long time - maybe even years - the stereo didn't get damaged. The power amp chips shut down into protected mode, and when the short went away, everything worked again normally. Cheers, Jochen

You have a PM

I have a Professional RDS radio available for the E39 This was the top of the line radio, better quality, more features than the Business RDS unit Made by Becker, absolute top radio manufacturers. It has twin-tuners for faster, seamless RDS handover, and TP monitoring no matter what band/channel you are on It's a full NZ-band radio with RDS. Perfect to replace a Jap-band radio to get perfect FM reception Radio-Tape, with CD changer control Fits E39s only If interested PM me. I'll fit for you if you come to my house (central Auckland) Jochen

This will be a dirty, sticky ICV for sure. Dead easy to clean, can be done in an hour: (for a V8) 1. Remove top black cover (press the 4 x buttons (item #2 in pic below) in till they click, lift off) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=11&fg=55 2. Locate ICV right at front of engine, (item #23 in pic below) it is just beside the scondary throttle housing tube (item #6) at the front of the engine: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=13&fg=15 3. Remove hoses, slide out of rubber holder. remove from car 4. Check inside flap valve - should swing freely. Bet it doesn't because it will be covered in black stuff 5. Spray insides with carb cleaner till clean. Valve should swing freely. Wipe with clean cloth. Don't scratch anything inside the ICV! 6. Re-assemble.

I know these E39s inside out. In the boot, left hand side, is the trim cover that folds open for the CD-changer Directly behind the CD changer is the amplifier (if fitted) Have a look - some cars are delivered with no amplifier (standard stereo), some with amplifier (hifi system), and some with a DSP amplifier (top-hifi) The amp is a metal box, either black or unpainted aluminium in colour, with a big heatsink on it. If you cannot see the amp, you have the standard system, and the speakers are driven direct from the head unit. Easiest diagnosis then is to remove the headunit and check the output, and measure the speakers with an ohmmeter to look for open or short circuits If you can see the amp, the headunit drives the amp directly, and the amp drives the speakers. Even easier to diagnose, as all the connectors are easily accessible and again, measure the speakers. Some E39s have 6 speaker systems, some 10 (mine has 10). How many speakers do you have? you may have 2 or 3 in each front door, maybe a tweeter in the rear door, and woofers in the rear parcel tray. Check and see, it will help me understand what system you have. Also, if you are in Akld, come to my house, I can diagnose the problem rapidly and easily. I have the full wiring digram and diagnosis info for these vehicles. Jochen

Never bothered on my '97 540i, I only had 78,000 kms when I bought it, figured it was gonna be OK. If you're gonna give the car a once-over I'd suggest you clean the ICV valve, mine was full of carbon, gummed and sticky. Now it's clean and swings open and closed freely, and I idle better. ICV is dead easy to access on the M62 V8 PS: If you want your TV/Radio/nav etc working - talk to me. I can help heaps.

I bought a new set on TradeMe for $65 (orange corners, original BMW part, perfect condition) I still have my old set (fuzzy fogged lenses) which someone can have if they want to collect...

What you thought was an antenna power lead actually has 2 functions: 1. Powers the antenna amplifier in the rear window. This is also an antenna diversity controler, which switches between the 3 x FM antennas in your car, and amplifiers the received signal You loose the antenna diversity effect with an aftermarket head unit, so FM reception will decrease 2. Switches on the factory amp. The amp is located in the boot and powers all the speakers. Your headunit is sending a signal to the amp You may find you'll overdrive the amp if you have your headunit too loud (depending on the output power of your headunit) so be careful. The wire you want to use to control the amp/antenna ampflifier is the "remote amp power on" lead out of your head unit. Jochen

In the E39 the illumination is made of orange surface mount LEDs. It you really wanted to, you could remove and dismantle each and every illuminated device, remove the orange LED, and solder in a Blue, Grenn, or other colour LED You need to have the skills to solder surface mount components, and it would take a long, long time to do everything! But some German guys have done this, and it is possible. But man, is it worth the effort? Jochen

You have mail. Basically: Remove and discard: Display Radio tuner TV tuner CD changer You can keep and re-use the OEM amp. Note carefully that once you have removed the display you won't be able to change / reset any of your on-board computer functions, or any vehicle settings that were previously controlled via the bordmonitor. Jochen

If you have TV and nav, I have a spare Kiwi radio tuner for a '95 E38 7-series here looking for a home. Changing the tuner means you go from shitty ex-Japan FM reception to proper, fully working, Kiwi radio reception, just like a NZ-new BMW PM or email me if interested PS: I can also get your Jap nav system working over here if you want :-) Jochen

Loads of BMW wiring diagrams on the 'net BMW radio plug adapters are available at Repcos. Anyway, the E46 stereo wiring is: Pin Type Description / Signal type Connection / Measuring notes / wire colour 1 A Signal, AF radio, front left + Amplifier 2 A Signal, AF radio, front right + Amplifier 3 A Signal, AF radio, rear left + Amplifier 4 E Signal Telephone mute circuit Connector Telephone mute circuit = black 5 E Terminal R Fuse F9 = violet/white 6 A Signal, AF radio, rear right + Amplifier 7 E/A K-bus signal K-bus connector = white/red/yellow 8 A Signal, AF radio, front left - Amplifier 9 E Terminal 30 Fuse F56 = red/green 10 Not used 11 A Signal, AF radio, front right - Amplifier 12 A Signal, AF radio, rear left - Amplifier 13 E Signal Locator lighting Connector, instrument and locator lighting green/red 14 A Signal, AF radio, rear right - Amplifier 15 M Ground Ground point = brown 16 E Aerial switching signal Amplifier = white 17 Not used A = output E = input M = ground Speaker wirecolours vary depending on radio fitment (std, hifi, top-hifi)

Extracted from the WDS:Brief description of radio For the E90, there are four radio levels as optional extras. Radio Audio without drive Radio Business CD with CD drive Radio Professional with CD-ROM drive Radio Professional with MD drive In addition, the navigation system Business (M-ASK) and navigation system Professional (CCC) can also be chosen. Different audio system can be combined with the radios. As standard, the stereo system is fitted with all radios (no external amplifier). Audio program The audio systems in the BMW 1 Series are divided into 3 levels: Stereo system HiFi system Top Hi-Fi system The audio systems differ in that various sound pressures can be achieved or there is improved system linearity. The stereo system consists of 6 loudspeakers; the HiFi system or top-hifi system consists of 10 loudspeakers and various additional amplifiers. The central bass speakers are located under the front seats. Aerials Rear-window aerials and a roof-mounted aerial are used in the E87. The rear-window aerials deliver the signals for the reception of FM. The roof-mounted aerial receives the signals for the telephone, FM and AM. Antenna diversity is fitted on the Radio Business CD and Radio Professional or higher. Antenna diversity contains the aerial amplifiers. Antenna diversity switches the aerials for FM. Service mode Proceed as follows to call up the Service mode: Terminal 30g ON Switch off the radio Switch on the radio again Within 8s for a duration of 8s, press the button for manual station-search function The radio switches into the Service mode So put the radio into service mode and see if you have an AREA option available to you. If so, set it to EUROPE.

If you're in AK BM Workshop do a pre-sale check for $100, very thorough. You should know how to recognise the tamper indicator on the electronic speedo. Basically, if a small dot is shown (like a decimal point) then the speedo reading doesn't match the LKM stored reading, its been tampered with But a general wear-andtear and service history check should show how genuine it is

Well... it's like anything - simple if you know how, complicated if you have no idea. If you are savvy with PCs, understand hex editors, and are comfortable with software uploads, then it's simple :-) Now that I know how I can change it in 5 min to anything I want...

Thanks guys! Have you seen what I've been playing with over the last few days..? : http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=9033 I love these cars = lots of fun !

One thing to remember - when you fit LED taillights, the LKM will think your taillights are blown, because the LEDs offer less electrical load than conventional light bulbs. LKM = Light Control Module So you'll either need to get BMW to re-code the LKM to switch off the rear light warning, or you'll need to add a resistor across the rear lights to simulate the electrical load of the standard taillights. To figure out what resistor size, first measure the current consumption of the standard taillights, then measure the LEDs. Then use the good old V=IR to calculate the resistor value. Remember to workout the wattage (P=VA) so that you get resistors big enough! Note that you'll need to measure each bulb separately as they are controlled individually Cheers, Jochen

So I thought time to get deeper into my E39 over Xmas... ...so out with the 'puter, a hex editor, and I-Bus interface, some OS discs, and... ...end result - I now have a custom start-up screen on my nav system... ...and also custom menu text on the main menu... I also changed some of the menu words I didn't like :-) But tonight I got bored with the blue BMW roundel splash screen I loaded the day before before Xmas so tonight I loaded another - so now when I open the door and jump in the car, I have a beautiful colour image of the M62 V8 engine displayed on my screen. Saves wear and tear on the bonnet hinges from me viewing my engine ;-/ And the image has my name on it of course... thieves be damned, my owner details are programmed in my car's software :-) ...don't you love how these E39s can be customised? Try and do that on a Ford Falcon! And all with Windows XP ! See ya - Jochen

>> Pin 4 is listed as "ground when armed". What is this for? (no hints in the booklet with the alarm) This pin will be high when unarmed, and grounded when armed. It'll be used to switch on various accessory sensor inputs like interior motion sensors etc. If you are not adding any more sensors, leave it disconnected.

You need the stock standard radio removal tools. Used on many radios in many cars. Any radio install shop has them, or if you want you can pop around to my place (Mt Eden) and use mine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-7-Serie...059401367QQrdZ1

"Bayerische Motoren Werke = Barvarian Motor Works" Well, actually, Bayerische Motoren Werke translates to Barvarian Motor Factory but who wants to call their car a BMF...??

Try unplugging the locking module and then seeing if the relay still engages. If the relay stays off and your resdiual current draw diminishes then suspect the locking module for not switching off the relay. Jochen