jochen

We call that duh duh noise 'motor boating' Caused by fluctuations in the power supply getting into the input of the amp Make sure the earth connection is really good, and that the main power wire is man enough for the job. Those subs draw a lot of power...

BM Workshop on Gt North Rd has them for good prices. The colour of the plastic mount dictates the wattage of the bulb, so if all are the same colour then the wattage is the same for all. Jochen

Wondering how many E39 owners in this forum - I know there's a couple at least. Wondering if we should get together and do a group purchase of the cabin air microfilters... I bought them locally from BM Workshop at about $60 each, but they only have the plain paper dust/pollen filters. I was wondering about getting a box of activated-charcoal air filters... - they will take the smell, as well as particles, out of the air. I hate stinky diesels, so was wondering if anyone else was interested in a bulk buy of the better filters ex Germany...... Jochen

If it has the standard big black square BMW audio plug then you can buy a loom from Repco: BMW to DIN. You can then get another loom for DIN toyour stereo, or just cut off the DIN plugs and wire directly to your new stereo wiring loom Wiring details are everywhere on the 'net. Jochen

I've got some. PM or email me. Jochen

I had the same on my rego 2 days ago. The LTNZ form simply didn't add up to the right total If you add up the individual amounts, it comes to the correct figure. I had the same: showed a total of $66.20, I paid $66.22, the individual amounts added to $66.22 But as someone said - it's only 2c !!

Remember - the higher the better Top of windscreen is best, you get earlier detection of signals = more warning

It is easy to hard-wire a radar detector. Pop down to Dick Smiths or Jaycar and get yourself the right sized DC plug for your detector - the plugs come in different sizes, so take the detector with you. Maybe you'll find they have a power plug + lead all made for you to buy Otherwise, fit some small twin cable to the plug, and then wire in to your car. Choose a convienient +12V power source, ideally one that is switched with the ignition. Use the sunroof power, mirror power (if you have auto-dipping mirror) or any other 12V source. If you do go straight to the ignition switch, make sure you fit a fuse as well to protect you from any short circuits you might inadvertently create!

One of the fun things a V1 can do is integrate with the dash of a BMW That means the warning messages appear in the Check Control display or on the on-board monitor So you don't have to look at the V1 display, it all appears on the dashboard in front of you.....

I had been wanting to add a small but really convienient feature to my 540i E39 - the BMW UGDO, or universal garage door opener, or Homelink transmitter, or universal transmitter (depending on what documentation you are reading at the time) You can program this baby to memorise any of your remote controls that you use. It mounts in the E38/E39 sunroof panel, looks cool, all the right black plastic with white labels, properly illuminated at night with the right BMW orange. I wanted to use it for my garage door, house alarm, and also my wife's car :-) Or so I thought So last week I bought one on eBay USA and had it posted to me Received it today, and fired it up on the workbench Well, one remote (the Honda Jap remote) from 4 worked. Why...??? The learning function worked, I swear I saw somewhere that it was compatible with my Merlin garage door opener. So I started researching in depth - which I should have done at the start...... what frequencies are my remotes, what do the yanks use, what do the Germans use, etc etc Turns out the yanks love to use 318MHz for their remote control freqs, whilst here in NZ we love to use 433MHz, and also some good old 40MHz stuff So the USA-version of the unit operates 288-399MHz And the Euro-version operates at 27MHz, 40MHz and 433MHz I need the Euro version - and I bought the USA one... :-( (As the Japs follow the yanks with their systems, that explains why the Jap remote worked....) Oh well, back on eBay it goes. Unless someone here has a garage door that operates in the 318MHz range and wants to take it off my hands...... Cheerio, Jochen

What condition was the brake pad sensor in? They can be sacrificial....

So... retro-fit it then! A fun project, all it takes is $$$ :-/

You want your sat nav working? I can help you do it Sat nav is way cool... Jochen (E39 540i with working sat nav)

Here it is: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...fg=50&hl=81 You were looking at item #17 bolted to bracket #18 Central locking should be easy to fix.

http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/bmwpurity.html

Here's more info on the comfort relay that fails: http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e36/8001720-1.html and more info here as well http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/bmw_e36.html Easy to fix

You'll have a dead relay for sure. Read here for relay location and diangosis: http://www.bmwnut.blogspot.com/

Hi Josh - good to see the MP3 text appeared properly - bet you were chuffed. That was the only part I wasn't 100% confident about, so I'm glad it all worked perfectly. Enjoy your radio :-) Jochen

Is your heat shield missing? Never fitted?

Yes

Jap Mercs? Don't know anything about them. I'm a BMW man through and through. Hast du dass gut verstanden?

If you get a Japan car talk to me about getting the radio and nav system working properly over here (if you want to) If you get a Singapore car the radio and nav system will be NZ-compatible Whatever you do, make sure you get the car checked Common faults: Window winders - make sure all windows go up and down properly Sunroof - make sure it works well Rain sensitive wipers - test they work Pixels on air con and dashboard displays - make sure all pixels work Engine water pump - make sure fan is solid, not up-down or left-right movement, otherwise waterpump is shagged Make sure all the electrics work - electric seat movements, heating, all controls The heater vontrols can fail, make sure it properly blows hot and cold air when selected Test the air con Test all lights etc, make sure the CHECK CONTROL says OK Make sure no engine warning lights etc are lit. Put the dashboard into diagnostic mode and check the fault codes - should be none. Cheers, Jochen

Worst thing i ever did that made me a bad driver was drive non-BMWs for the first 20 years...

Come on everyone - modern cars are complex. Modern car parts systems are even more complex. So make sure you know, and can quote, the chassis number of your BMW If you are armed with your chassis number you'll always get the right bit. I have. Easy.

OK, I'll do... ummm.... Mini and Rolls Royce <grin> Anyone know why?