Boost Junky: 2nd Saga - M50-T Project

[Boost Junky 1]

No worries Luke, hopefully it will be alright like that

I'd take a look at what other people have done, even 9:1 cr shouldn't cause too many issues on a modern-ish motor like the M50. what is stock c/r? thicker head gaskets etc can muck up cam timing and cause it too be too sluggish off boost. higher cr also requires less boost to make power, just need to make sure you have a good tune as it is easier to cause damage if you get it wrong with high comp and boost.

if you wanted to do a nice build with high boost just get new pistons as chances are they'd need replacing anyway once boost got that high that compression was an issue

I would have thought the tune would sort out the timing issues? Or does it just get it running more reliable? Yea thats right it will be easier to get power with less boost but like you said much less room for error. As long as the tune is reliable it should hold up ok, depends how tired my motor is also.. If its one thing i learnt from my last turbo project it is not to cheap out on an ECU or Tune haha.

I have a spare block sitting at blairs which i might build up so this block will really be my test setup but I dont want to wreck the head so gotta keep it sensible at the same time.

[Nobimmer 694]

Looks good mae good progress!

[Mike 1]

generally shaving the head or block, or a different thickness gasket will change the camshaft timing in an overhead cam engine, can be corrected with an adjustable cam pulley. not normally a big deal but something to consider anyway if you go that route.

BTW I'm not sure how the vanos all ties in with that, and whether it could be set to match the new height?

Edited December 17, 2008 by Mike

[Boost Junky 1]

Oh ok cheers mike yea ill see how it goes with a stock headgasket and then with a thicker headgasket. Oh im not running the vanos motor, steered clear of that when i done the conversion purely because i knew id end up going forced induction haha!

Thanks Indecorous cant wait to show you guys the beast finally running haha!

[*Glenn* 854]

generally shaving the head or block, or a different thickness gasket will change the camshaft timing in an overhead cam engine, can be corrected with an adjustable cam pulley. not normally a big deal but something to consider anyway if you go that route.

BTW I'm not sure how the vanos all ties in with that, and whether it could be set to match the new height?

Both camshaft sprockets on a M50 are slotted so you can get the camshaft timing correct. All BMW chain driven motors have slotted sprockets. Using the correct profile tools, you can set it up perfect or if you are running a wild cam / camshafts, you can set the timing to the camshaft specs to get correct opening / closing and overlap.

[*Glenn* 854]

is the oil/bearing system gonna be ok with the turbo on an angle like that? From memory anything more than 15 degrees is getting a bit suss. manufacturer should have a max spec for that

When I turbo'd my Sierra years ago I'm sure there was reference to that in the specs for the Garret turbo I used.

On that angle you might get oil puddling in the compressor side of the turbo when the engine is turned off because the angle of the drain wont allow the bearing assembly to drain out properly once the engine stops. Over time you would get alot of oil in the intercooler

Edited December 17, 2008 by *Glenn*

[CamB 48]

All BMW chain driven motors have slotted sprockets.

I wish. Just about to place an order for an adjustable sprocket for an M10.

Edited December 17, 2008 by CamB

[*Glenn* 854]

I wish. Just about to place an order for an adjustable sprocket for an M10.

Oops forgot about the early model motors.

Just get an engineer to slot it for you in a mill

[CamB 48]

Oops forgot about the early model motors.

Just get an engineer to slot it for you in a mill

Thanks for the tip, but unfortunately mine is worn out anyway and I figured I should just get an adjustable one (same price as OEM).

[*Glenn* 854]

Thanks for the tip, but unfortunately mine is worn out anyway and I figured I should just get an adjustable one (same price as OEM).

Are you running singlex or duplex chain ? If its only singlex do the conversion

[CamB 48]

Are you running singlex or duplex chain ? If its only singlex do the conversion

Have to run double - M3 crank.

[Boost Junky 1]

Both camshaft sprockets on a M50 are slotted so you can get the camshaft timing correct. All BMW chain driven motors have slotted sprockets. Using the correct profile tools, you can set it up perfect or if you are running a wild cam / camshafts, you can set the timing to the camshaft specs to get correct opening / closing and overlap.

Well ya learn something new everyday. Thanks Glenn very helpful to know that! I guess thats something you have to watch out for when pulling the head off also, making sure you mark where the sprockets are set so that they are put on back in the same place?

When I turbo'd my Sierra years ago I'm sure there was reference to that in the specs for the Garret turbo I used.

On that angle you might get oil puddling in the compressor side of the turbo when the engine is turned off because the angle of the drain wont allow the bearing assembly to drain out properly once the engine stops. Over time you would get alot of oil in the intercooler

I bought that up with a guy i know today and he said problem easily solved... just run a drain plug in the intercooler

[Gus 5]

bit band aid however..shouldnt really happen in the first place

[Boost Junky 1]

I do agree and should modify the manifold for the turbo to sit better however i'm getting to the point where the manifold is like 5 months under construction and have little patience with the it now still yes it should be done properly... i'll suss it somehow haha

[*Glenn* 854]

bit band aid however..shouldnt really happen in the first place

I agree with Gus. You are only draining the oil from the intercooler. I would be more concerned about the specs by the turbo manufacturer. It could effect bearing lubrication and turbo performance. Turbo drains are very critical in design on turbos.... No acute bends in pipe work, no restrictions, continuous diameter, entry into sump above oil level height and preferably shielded inside the sump to prevent the crankshaft throwing oil back up the drain tube

[Boost Junky 1]

Yes I know cheers Glenn and Gus, somehow ill sort it out.... looks like another couple of months work on the manifold haha! Damn

[*Glenn* 854]

Doing it once & doing it properly = less heartache & $$$

[Boost Junky 1]

Yea I know only thing is I wasnt meant to be fabricating the manifold the guy who was building it went to Australia and I was left to finish it off haha.

[Boost Junky 1]

Ok a slight update everybody. Manifold is 99.9% done everything is fabricated up and I leak tested it tonight by filling it with petrol. Found about 4 leaks which need addressing so my mate is going to fix them up tommorow. Dad is going to sandblast the manifold out at his work then I will paint it with some 1600deg paint prob just black.

Finished off all my intercoooler piping last night and my mate welded it all up today so thats all done. Hopefully purchase my oil/water lines in the next two weeks. I will place some more pics up when I get all the bits and pieces back.

Luke

[drifty325i 0]

Mint cant wait to see some pics!! well done mate

[Boost Junky 1]

Yea Riley be good to get some more. I just gotta get the manifold sand blasted and heat coated then im gonna take a pic of it and all the intercooler piping on the car etc not far to go now

[Boost Junky 1]

Soooo close now

Purchased my oil lines on Friday and have since made them up. I ran a -10 hose for the return and a -4 hose for the oil feed with a 1.5mm reducer in it as the roller bearing turbos do not require alot of oil. They already have a reducer built in but for added security it is advised to run the 1.5mm reducer.

Had to hack and grind the manifold a little bit to get it to meet up flush with the head. Purchased new exhaust manifold studs and nuts last week to replace old and missing ones.

Found some RX7 550cc injectors for $500 they are getting flow tested and new seals. When I get them I will swap my tidier intake manifold over onto the motor as it has the fitting on the underside of it plastic welded in (the fitting where the pipe from the ICV plugs into the manifold, this will stop it blowing out under boost.

So all thats really left after these last few things is to build an exhaust which my mate is more than happy too help and im purchasing a MLS headgasket, still unsure on what thickness to purchase yet. Then shes in for a tune, cert, wof etc...

Anyway have a perv:

<--- VIDEO

Edited February 4, 2009 by Boost Junky

[SIR E30 68]

roflcopter at the photo of blair peepin up from behind the car!!

NICE WORK LUKE! ten points

[CamB 48]

Geez that's gonna haul ass. I'd forgotten how big the turbo was...

[_BRS_ 209]

yeeeooow nearly there, sounded so sick tonight!

yeah who is that guy peeping up from behind the car hahaha,

needa start sussing some new rubber i think luke!