Manual G/Box Conversion

[Carl 3]

Doing a manual conversion is a good experience and well worth the effort.

First up you need to get yourself a manual conversion kit, probably of TradeMe, which should include in addition to the actual gearbox, the shift lever mechansim, pedal box, driveshaft (front shaft at a minimum), clutch line, clutch resovoir, and the master and slave clutch cylinders.

It is recommended you check that you have everything you need and replace anything that's worn or broken - Preventative Maintenance

A few major points:

Gearbox:

The gearbox needs to have a clutch disc, pressure plate, mounts, cross-member, release bearing, and spigot bearing aswell as the shift lever console, linkage, and lever. The driveshaft should have a flex disc although you can pawn this from the old autobox.

It is advised to get a clutch replacement kit which includes a new clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing, as these parts should be replaced to make the g/box feel like new. The kit is significantly cheaper than buying the pieces separately. The clutch replacement kit is $450 OEM, $260 LuK.

Check that you have the other necessary parts and replace them if they look worn out. Shop around, for ex, OEM mounts can be costly @ $50 each but MUCH much cheaper from BMWorkshop or other parties.

Spigot/Pilot bearing:

You WILL need a spigot bearing, otherwise called a pilot bearing, as the auto box doesn't have one and the manual kit probably won't come with one. Check if you have one first but they're relatively cheap @ $35 OEM.

Driveshaft:

The front driveshaft piece has to be replaced since the auto box is longer than the manual. All E30 driveshafts are 2-piece and the rear pieces are all the same so if you have 2 driveshafts pick the best rear shaft based on the condition of the universal joint. Note that the driveshaft bearing mounts on the facelift are different from the pre-fl mounts.

Clutch:

Get master and slave clutch cylinder repair kits to freshen up the clutch system. BNT have these for $30 and $20 respectively. They also have new master cylinders for $130 and new slave cylinders for $50. An OEM master cylinder is $180.

Note, when you mount the clutch resovoir in the engine bay, make sure that you mount this high and that the feeder tube is straight as possible as the master cylinder is gravity fed. Also make sure that their is no perished parts on this line because if this leaks it makes a hell of a mess.

Oil and seals:

Make sure you get the right oil for the g/box. Getrag 260's use MTF (manual transmission fluid) and Red Line make very good oil for this. While the g/box is out you should replace the output shaft seal and perhaps also the selector shaft seal (see below). If the box is old the shaft seal may leak oil so it's a good idea to replace this. OEM seals are exp. so shop around.

To replace the shaft seal, take off the flex disc and undo the big nut, pry off the old oil seal and stick in new one. Tricky as the bolt is FT (f**king tight) so you'll need to jam up the shaft so it doesn't turn. Also need to do this back up FT so use same process again.

A few additonal points:

For the benefit of people considering doing a gearbox swap, there's a few additional things you should do while you have the manual box out of the car as it's easier to work with.

Short shift conversion:

Replace the stock shift lever with a Z3 shift lever. This gives a shorter shift and fixes some slop as the the levers have nylon inserts at the bottom linkage end which wears out.

Sloppy shift lever:

Replace the front shiftrod linkage knuckle as it has a nylon insert which wears out and causes severe slop in the lever. If you do this it is a good time to replace the oil seal that sits behind the knuckle (selector shaft seal).

Mounts:

Replace any mounts that are worn, g/box mounts or shift console mounts, it'll save you the hassle later.

Here's a pic with some parts.

[Carl 3]

Getting started.

We installed the pedal box before actually doing the conversion as that's a mission in itself.

The pics that follow are of the actual auto tranny to manual swap. We had the luxury of doing this with a small pit. Quite simple, jack the car up and get underneath. Take the exhaust, heat shielding, and driveshaft off. Taking the entire exhaust off is quite useful as working around the auto tranny is quite tight.

Next step is to take out the auto box. This is tricky as some of the bolts holding the auto tranny to the engine are in tight spots.

This is a pic after taking the auto box out...revealing the torque converter. This thing is bloody heavy and accounts for the uneconomical fuel usuage as it has some very large rotational inertia - slow revving! The flywheel is half as light as this thing.

[Carl 3]

So, after taking off the torque converter you need to take of the flex ring thingee which is only there so the starter motor can work.

[Carl 3]

After taking the flex ring thingee off the output shaft from the motor is revealed with a hole for the spigot bearing to sit in, the bearing holds the g/box input shaft in place.

If you don't stick in a spigot bearing your g/box shaft will flex and chew itself up in no time.

[Carl 3]

After putting the spigot bearing in, the flywheel bolts on.

The clutch plate goes on next, but before sticking it on use a clutch centering tool to keep the clutch plate aligned while putting the pressure plate on

BTW: You can seee my purple urethane control arm bushes nicely in this shot

[Carl 3]

Pressure plate sitting over the clutch disc and flywheel

Take out the centering tool at this point so as the manual box can slide on

[Carl 3]

The next stp is to slide the manual box in. You have to make sure that it has slid on correctly and is all the way in, this may require several attempts at sliding it on to get it right. We spent ages trying to force it on when all you really need to do is make sure the box is lined up correctly before attempting to slide it all the way in.

You'll know when the box has slid in correctly with the input shaft inserted into the spigot bearing because the box shouldn't have any vertical or horizontal movement at the bell housing end but it should be able to rotate freely allowing you to align the holes for the bolts with ease.

In this pic you can see the box in place held up by the supporting crossmember bracket and mounts. The output shaft has the rubber flex-disc already attached which is where the drive shaft bolts on to.

The bolts holding the mounting bracket are the same bolts for the auto braket although you'll need to swap brakets around. You can see the rails for the bolts, the auto rails are at different levels and further back than the manual box rails hence the different mounting brakets.

[Carl 3]

Sorry, didn't take pictures of anything else, after bolting up the driveshaft to the diff and putting the exhaust back into place hooking up the clutch line is the next bitch task along with bleeding it.

Note: Make sure the clutch fluid resovoir is mounted high in the engine bay otherwise you'll get air in your lines. Bleeding the clutch is a painful task requiring a minimum of two people so as someone can be under the car opening and closing the slave cylinder while the other person presses and depresses the clutch pedal.

Another minor task is to short circuit the ignition inhibitor which prevented the car from starting when the auto was not in neutral or park. An option here is to wire the inhibitor through the window lock so as you can have an additional semi-security feature.

[MattA 164]

Well done bro... Just a note I paid way less for my shift mounts I think about half from BMWarehouse having shopped around a bit they have been consistantly cheaper for everything both new parts and 2nd hand worth a call if you want mare parts.

[Carl 3]

Your right MattA.

Be very aware that BMW centres charge exuberant prices like for example: $185 for a master cylinder repair kit. BNT charged me $28!!! There may be some discrepency here though as the genuine BMW kit may (or may not) have more in it as the kit from BNT contained just the rubber pieces (which is all you need). The BMW centre also quoted $285 for a new master cylinder...ouch.

I guess the main point here is if you can locate the correct parts from somewhere other than an authorised BMW centre your going to save alot of mulah.

The new clutch feels kinda nice Gus, firms up within inches of travel, infinately better than the auto

[bumpstop325 0]

first time i did it, it took me 4 hours.

when i did matts, i think it took me only an hour.

mine, 4hrs

carls, 2hrs

matts, 1hr

tane, about 45mins i reckon.

[Deftones 0]

sweet as. The more we start on Friday the more time we have to 'test' out the new gearbox on the Sat or Sunday. Give that new clutch a bit of a working in :mosh:

[bumpstop325 0]

Another happy customer!!! TANE

another manual e30, thanks to ME :thumb:

im happy to say it didnt take aslong as carls. but we still had problems.

im sure tane will spill the beans when hes next online.

[Deftones 0]

Another happy customer!!! TANE

another manual e30, thanks to ME :thumb:

im happy to say it didnt take aslong as carls. but we still had problems.

im sure tane will spill the beans when hes next online.

Tim is the man :bowdown: :bowdown:

Burnouts are now a possibilty with my car... no crappy random gear changings for me... ooohhh yea.. the 5spd kicks ass.

Was quite a relatively good conversion.. Started late on the Sat with the removal of the exhaust, heatsheilds, diff, then Tim had to drop some skirt off in Wellington.. Took out the old clunky auto gearbox (those things are heavy) the flywheel, torque convertor (heavy as well) etc. The flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, spigot bearing, and release bearing went in next. Then we decided to bust a few brews, and get totally smashed.. Feel sorry for the people's property that Tim destroyed on the way home from the pub! Poor gardens will never look the same in Palmy.

Too hungover the next day we finally got up at midday... gearbox was in straight away with no problems. Pedal box in quick time. Diff. Then came the nightmare..... some retard decided it'd be a good idea to fuk the thread on the master cylinder (end that connects to the clutchlines) arggghhh!!!! Tim wasn't a happy chappy which was fair enufff. After a few hours of trying everything and numerous calls to Hartage/Ian, Tim managed to stop the leak that i had caused from stuffing the thread :bowdown: Bled the clutch. Was no resistance, so had air pockets in line, so after talking to Ian pressurised the air out by pumping the clutch three times, holding clutch down while Tim opened the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. Did this a few times, and managed to bleed the clutch successfully.

Threw heatsheilds and exhaust back on, then walla.

Tim took the car out for a test drive... sheesh it was fun, hooning the outskirts of palmy...

A couple of parts were missing such as wiring for the reverse lights, and the rubber bit that covers the hole where the gearshift comes through.

All in all, a very successful and fun weekend. Thanks to Tim for a great learning experience, and for showing me it is possible to drink copious amounts of alcohol is less than a couple of hours. Big ups to Ian as well, the vast fountain of knowledge that he is.

Edited September 20, 2004 by Deftones

[bumpstop325 0]

yes arrha fun weekend indeed it was.

good things= tyre smoke, drinking, and getting dirty and subway

bad things= cross threaded m/cylinder, hangover and brake fluid.

the cross threaded m/cylinder was the biggest bitch in hell. but thanks to my trusty vice grips and back yard mechcanic know how and a call to THE MAN "IAN". i maganded to thread a new thread, after rounding off the 11mm bolt. with my spanner, i thought all was lost, but i managed to turn it with the vice grips.

i was also good to see my 5spd touring box put to use. i tryed to find out what the diff ratio is but i couldnt read it. but anyway it does 100km/h to 3000revs. thats all i will say. i know other redline speeds but this is a public forum. and i dont want to be band. the first test drive was a sucess to say the least. also it was good stress releaf. at the moment i dont want to see another g/b. but sometime in the near future, some poor e30 auto will be in my garage getting a manual box fitted.

[Vent 0]

Awesome, thanks for tagging this post Carl, my conversion is 3-4 months away, im thinking..

Any chance you could give an estimated total cost for the project, so i can start buying bits and pieces?

Please, and thanks

[E30-323ti 66]

Awesome, thanks for tagging this post Carl, my conversion is 3-4 months away, im thinking..

Any chance you could give an estimated total cost for the project, so i can start buying bits and pieces?

Please, and thanks

Daniel,

Remember I have everything you need from the pedal box to the flywheel and the drive shaft , and everything inbetween!!

~150km on it all.

$500 and it's all yours.

[bumpstop325 0]

Dan, if you dont buy it, I will hit you along with Carl, Tane and Ian prob will jump on the band wagon and join me.

so, glenn ring dan and tell him that he has bought it because I said so.

[Carl 3]

I concur Tim, however, lets just hit him anyway

Dan, talk to Glenn, he'll have an understanding (I would hope) of what, if any, parts on the g/box need replacing...but one would imagine that on such a low kms car it'd be in good nick.

[bumpstop325 0]

Tim is the man :bowdown: :bowdown:

Doing it because it makes me feel good.

Tane you have a very good way with words.

[nz320i 0]

Another happy customer!!! TANE

another manual e30, thanks to ME :thumb:

im happy to say it didnt take aslong as carls. but we still had problems.

im sure tane will spill the beans when hes next online.

Tim is the man :bowdown: :bowdown:

Burnouts are now a possibilty with my car... no crappy random gear changings for me... ooohhh yea.. the 5spd kicks ass.

Was quite a relatively good conversion.. Started late on the Sat with the removal of the exhaust, heatsheilds, diff, then Tim had to drop some skirt off in Wellington.. Took out the old clunky auto gearbox (those things are heavy) the flywheel, torque convertor (heavy as well) etc. The flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, spigot bearing, and release bearing went in next. Then we decided to bust a few brews, and get totally smashed.. Feel sorry for the people's property that Tim destroyed on the way home from the pub! Poor gardens will never look the same in Palmy.

Too hungover the next day we finally got up at midday... gearbox was in straight away with no problems. Pedal box in quick time. Diff. Then came the nightmare..... some retard decided it'd be a good idea to fuk the thread on the master cylinder (end that connects to the clutchlines) arggghhh!!!! Tim wasn't a happy chappy which was fair enufff. After a few hours of trying everything and numerous calls to Hartage/Ian, Tim managed to stop the leak that i had caused from stuffing the thread :bowdown: Bled the clutch. Was no resistance, so had air pockets in line, so after talking to Ian pressurised the air out by pumping the clutch three times, holding clutch down while Tim opened the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. Did this a few times, and managed to bleed the clutch successfully.

Threw heatsheilds and exhaust back on, then walla.

Tim took the car out for a test drive... sheesh it was fun, hooning the outskirts of palmy...

A couple of parts were missing such as wiring for the reverse lights, and the rubber bit that covers the hole where the gearshift comes through.

All in all, a very successful and fun weekend. Thanks to Tim for a great learning experience, and for showing me it is possible to drink copious amounts of alcohol is less than a couple of hours. Big ups to Ian as well, the vast fountain of knowledge that he is.

How mcuh did it cost you man? i want to do burnouts too !!

I think next year i will bite the bullet, splash out and do it, where there is a will there is a way, sucks that i have next to no tools or a garage or anyone i know is a mechanic!!!!

[bem-on 0]

wow sounds like an experience, your doing the world good tim! :mosh: might have to talk busness with you in the next couple of months if you want a job. might be a bit bigger than the last 1 if i dont get the new motor in myself but yeah, you are the man

Edited August 6, 2005 by bem-on

[Deftones 0]

Another happy customer!!! TANE

another manual e30, thanks to ME :thumb:

im happy to say it didnt take aslong as carls. but we still had problems.

im sure tane will spill the beans when hes next online.

Tim is the man :bowdown: :bowdown:

Burnouts are now a possibilty with my car... no crappy random gear changings for me... ooohhh yea.. the 5spd kicks ass.

Was quite a relatively good conversion.. Started late on the Sat with the removal of the exhaust, heatsheilds, diff, then Tim had to drop some skirt off in Wellington.. Took out the old clunky auto gearbox (those things are heavy) the flywheel, torque convertor (heavy as well) etc. The flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, spigot bearing, and release bearing went in next. Then we decided to bust a few brews, and get totally smashed.. Feel sorry for the people's property that Tim destroyed on the way home from the pub! Poor gardens will never look the same in Palmy.

Too hungover the next day we finally got up at midday... gearbox was in straight away with no problems. Pedal box in quick time. Diff. Then came the nightmare..... some retard decided it'd be a good idea to fuk the thread on the master cylinder (end that connects to the clutchlines) arggghhh!!!! Tim wasn't a happy chappy which was fair enufff. After a few hours of trying everything and numerous calls to Hartage/Ian, Tim managed to stop the leak that i had caused from stuffing the thread :bowdown: Bled the clutch. Was no resistance, so had air pockets in line, so after talking to Ian pressurised the air out by pumping the clutch three times, holding clutch down while Tim opened the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. Did this a few times, and managed to bleed the clutch successfully.

Threw heatsheilds and exhaust back on, then walla.

Tim took the car out for a test drive... sheesh it was fun, hooning the outskirts of palmy...

A couple of parts were missing such as wiring for the reverse lights, and the rubber bit that covers the hole where the gearshift comes through.

All in all, a very successful and fun weekend. Thanks to Tim for a great learning experience, and for showing me it is possible to drink copious amounts of alcohol is less than a couple of hours. Big ups to Ian as well, the vast fountain of knowledge that he is.

How mcuh did it cost you man? i want to do burnouts too !!

I think next year i will bite the bullet, splash out and do it, where there is a will there is a way, sucks that i have next to no tools or a garage or anyone i know is a mechanic!!!!

Can cost around $1,000 - $2,000 depending on where you source the parts, and if you replace worn parts before throwing the box in. ie. the gear selector knuckle.

Definately worthwhile!

[RageX^NZ 0]

Where in Auckland can I aquire a clutch centering tool??

I also need a gear knob, where can I get one that will fit? genuine or not, doesn't bother me

I am going to do the conversion on my 1988 320iA/2 this weekend, planning on replacing the thrust bearing, the clutch disc and the selector shaft seals and nylon bushing at the bottom of the shift lever.

[bravo 35]

Clutch tool at repco or BNT. BNT have a nylon one for around $30. Repco have the same thing for about $60, and I got a powrebuilt steel one which had various sized shafts for the spigot bearing and looked alot more solid for $30 after my discount. I think retail is $55.

Gear knob - I just got a generic one from supercheap for around $30. Has three grub screws and rubber inserts. I didn't need a rubber insert, but found the grub screws continually loosen. Will be aopplying some locktite tonight to see if this remedies the situation. Eventually will get something nicer, but looks pretty good in the interim.

Also do the knuckle where the shift selector rod attaches to the g/b (if you have sheet metal console) as I didn't and I am unhappy with the amount of side-to-side play in my shift lever when in gear. I have to pull out the driveshaft at some stage in the near future for another little job, so I'll probably replace it then.

Good luck!

Edited October 18, 2005 by bravomikewhiskey